DSG Driveshaft removal

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Hi, I need to fit a new outer CV gaiter to the OS driveshaft, I'm just unsure of what to expect when pulling it out of the gearbox. I know on manual cars some of the gearbox oil comes out with it, but isn't a DSG box sealed? So will I need to re-grease the end of it or something?

Thanks
 
From experience on our 3.2 TT the driveshaft is held onto the gearbox flange by six bolts, so undoing these allows removal of the shaft.



3B1D2469-2399-4C15-8A95-65FA14BE5306.jpg
 
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Did the passenger driveshaft of mine which is dsg and it's like the picture :) no oil was lost
 
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Nice one guys, thanks very much. I've got the kit (£30 from TPS including hub bolt and lower arm nuts), bought a selection of 'triple square' (XZN) sockets, hopefully that's everything I'll need? (obviously got socket set, torque wrench, extension bar etc). Will be doing the job over Xmas and will report back after.

Cheers
 
you'll need splined bits for the 6 bolts on the gearbox end of the driveshaft ( it's 8 or 10mm )
 
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Removal was easy enough. Was straight forward to unbolt and re-attach from gearbox end as like the picture posted by Veneeringman it was just 6 bolts (M10 triple square) to undo, then the mating plates separated - no oil or grease.

Method:
Loosen hub bolt (no more than 90 degrees)
Jack up driver side and support on axle stand.
Remove hub bolt
Remove 3 nuts attaching wishbone to hub ball joint.
On the gearbox end, undo the 6 x M10 bolts. Was a bit of a faff because I could only get to 2 at a time, so after undoing 2 I jacked up the passenger side to rotate the wheel a little to bring the next bolts around, then had to lower the wheel to the ground again to get enough resistance to undo the bolts, and repeat. Have a bungee cord or something ready to support the driveshaft so as not to put any strain on the outer CV joint.
You can now manoeuvre the hub off and away from the splined end and pull the drive shaft out.

I spent the rest of the day trying to separate the CV joint from the driveshaft, tried so many things. The Audi method is to hammer a brass drift into the inner bearing race to pop it off, another method was to tighten the hub bolt into the end to drive it off - my bolt wasn't long enough so I tried adding a small piece of threaded bar which just got squished and took forever to fish out again. In the end I took it to local garage but they couldn't get it off either so they fitted a stretchy boot, £20 all in.

I won't ever try to remove a CV joint again and just go for the stretchy boot as it did the job perfectly.

Re-assemble in reverse order, you should replace the Hub bolt and 3 nuts holding on the wishbone to lower ball joint.

Torque wrench settings:
Transmission flange bolts - 70 NM
Wishbone to lower ball joint nuts - 60 NM
Hub bolt - Hexagon (6-sided) type - 200 NM + 180 degrees
Hub bolt - 12-point ridged type - 70 NM + 90 degrees
 
Usual method for CV removal is to put the joint at maximum deflection and tap smartly on the outer casing in a downward direction with a heavy hammer while holding the shaft, this should compress the inner wireclip and allow the joint to slide off the shaft. It can take a few goes but usually works just fine.

Dave