Karls 3.0 TDI build thread

No that's all there is in there. There are 2 steel plates on either end that are quite thick but dependent on the pressure present they may flex slightly.
This would allow the volume of the chamber to increase so would result in dampening of pressure pulses.
 
If that is how it works, surely this would soften/slow the disengaging of the clutch but tighten/speed-up engagement? I would have thought this to be the opposite effect to what's required. An easier way to "remove" this effect would be to apply an external clamping device such as a tight fitting "C" shaped piece of metal.

The pressure required to operate the clutch (plastic slave cylinder) is much less than say a brake line. However the large diameter of the "Valve" would magnify the pressure as it would in a brake caliper piston. I suppose measuring the width of it before and then during operation of the clutch would be the only way to confirm.
 
It's function as far as I understand is a pulse damper. When the clutch is depressed vibrations can be felt on the pedal caused by movement of the DMF . The damper acts to reduce the magnitude of these pressure pulses reaching the pedal. Thus improving the smoothness of the pedal.
It definitely helps quick gear changes by removing it as I believe the sudden transient pressure pulse occurring when you stamp on the clutch is attenuated by the damper resulting in slower operation of the slave cylinder.
 
Hi Karl, have you had the gutted DPF on the scales? Just curious if there is any weight saving. I can't imagine the core weighs much as I reckon the housing weighs the most? But then again, if it's full of ash......?
 
Probably no more than 2-3Kg difference between a gutted and normal DPF. Plenty of other opportunities to save weight
 
Oh for sure. But it's a nice byproduct of gutting it, although that's usually how much my dinner weighs haha.
 
Hi Karl,

First of all I must say you have been an excellent source of inspiration with this thread, and one of the main reasons I ended up with a B8 3.0 TDI myself in the end.

I was thinking of doing the muffler mod as well (my DPF will stay in place).
Just wanted to know how it's holding up and if the packaging needed replacing after a while? I will pay for someone to do it as I don't have the tools required and I can't weld anyway, hence I'd rather not have to repeat the process every 2 years haha.
If anyone knows people around London or Berkshire that could help me out at a reasonable price that would also be appreciated.

I'm thinking of going a bit crazier with the wire wool - I assume it would act more like a straight pipe like this? I'm using the car as a daily for about 500 miles a week so I'm keen on keeping it reasonably quiet and avoiding drone.
 
Tot be honest, it's much easier opening the inner stubs and welding a 90 degree bit of pipe pointing downward. If you look at the S5 the exhaust muffler is exactly the same however it's got another pipe. That's basically a straight through pipe. It can even be done with just removing the valance rather then the entire cat back. When i come home I'll upload a picture of what I mean. I've got it on my car and it sounds good, has got less back pressure and doesn't have the howling whistling noise that Karl's mod has (no disrespect intended with that comment)
 
I think I understand what you mean, it does sound like an interesting option as well. Do you get any drone with it?
In all honesty I prefer Karl's idea because it would look 100% stock unless you remove the backboxes and look at their tops. I want everything to be as stock looking as possible, although what you are suggesting would be significantly more straightforward.
I'm also thinking it would potentially be slightly less restrictive that way, although both of them would be an obvious improvement over stock.

I thought the howling noise in the video was due to the additional pipe in the recording? I've heard a few A6's with a straight pipe instead of the muffler and they sound reasonable in the videos but haven't been able to find the same for an A4.
 
No drone whatsoever at any rev at any speed. DPF or no DPF. Pics attached.

I assume you are worried about insurance rather then warranty? Any good modified insurer will insure you for either nothing more or very little more. With the valance on you don't really see the extra pipes. You do need to mod the plastic valance a little bit underneath, but that's no big deal.

Karl's car from his track videos (not the one where his exhaust falls off) seems to have an odd whistling noise that I have not heard on any other exhaust.
 

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Cheers for the pictures, looks exactly as I imagined it.
The car will be 10 years old soon, I'm definitely no longer concerned about warranty haha.

You are correct, unfortunately the moment I start even mentioning hardware mods most of the mainstream insurers will not touch me. I've declared my remap for peace of mind, but that's about as far as they're willing to go.
I've tried getting some quotes off specialists in the past, Adrian Flux and Chris Knott but they came back with ridiculous prices of 50% more than the regular mainstream insurers.

It's all about "reasonable effort" I guess, what you are suggesting would be easily visible the moment you crouch down whereas Karl's mod is as stealth as one can possibly get.

I'll wait for the man himself to confirm regarding the whistling noise and I'll see if I can get some insurance quotes that are reasonable.
 
No worries mate, hope you don't feel I butted in as this is Karl's thread, just thought I'd show there is a second way.

Try specialist branch of a-plan, they gave me cheaper modified then mainstream unmodified. Adrian Flux is horrible, they are always double or triple the price lol.
 
Oh I am very grateful, it's always good to have different options and what you're suggesting is significantly more straightforward and cheaper!
I think that's what forums are all about, often there's more than one approach and what you're suggesting is very sound indeed.
If it's not helpful in my particular case I'm sure others that will see it will find it of value!
 
Forums are for sharing and learning I think. It's good people do different things and if they post that information others can maybe learn from their mistakes or make improvements.
If you are looking for cheap modified car insurance try Greenlight. The A4 is with Flux but my TT is with Greenlight.
The howling whistling noise my car makes in a lot of videos is down to the fix I put in place to add a little back pressure to the exhaust. This was done to try and fix the oil consumption issue when I fitted the hybrid and it instantly resolved the problem.
It doesn't have anything to do with the rear silencers . The exhaust cut out valve may produce a bit of a whistling sound because of the way the valve splits the flow in the exhaust.
I did this by cutting open the cat part of the standard downpipe and installing a plate with holes in and a piece of pipe. There was also a "throttle plate" which allowed for some adjustability. Although I found this could be left open all the time. For scale the piece of pipe in the centre with the throttle plate is 70mm diameter. So added little in the way of back pressure, A lot less than a cat or DPF but the holes caused that whistling when giving it some.
DSC 1559

DSC 2994
As the car has done several thousand miles now I have put a straight through downpipe on the car and all is good. A bit of carbon on the turbine side oil seal works wonders.
This is what it sounds like with a straight through downpipe. It does sound slightly different in the car with the windows up. It doesn't really sound like a diesel though :) .




Some more 3.0 TDI exhaust videos on the supersprint website. Basically if you go straight through all the way from the front to the back.Click on the official videos tab or just scroll down to the bottom of the page.

https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/audi-a4-b8-quattro-sedan-avant-30-tdi-v6-239-245-hp-08.aspx
 
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Cheers Karl, unfortunately I'll keep the DPF in place so mine will never sound as meaty.
Did you have any issues with the muffler packing? Is the rockwool still in place after a few years/miles?

@TimberVD - that looks like a 2" 90 degree pipe, is that right?
 
AFAIK the packing is still in place. It doesn't sound any different to what it did when I first did it. Only way to know for sure is cut it open.
 
Lovely car Karl and great thread - regarding converting your headlights to projector ones by baking them in the oven etc. Did it make a big difference to driving at night? My halogen ones are really disappointing so am looking at other options.

Cheers

Mark.
 
That sounds fantastic now Karl. Is that with the electronic exhaust valve open?

I suppose you are on first name basis with your MOT tester now? Haha

@christiano, correct, 2".
 
MarkWizard said:
Lovely car Karl and great thread - regarding converting your headlights to projector ones by baking them in the oven etc. Did it make a big difference to driving at night? My halogen ones are really disappointing so am looking at other options.

Cheers

Mark.
Click to expand...

Hi Mark, If I can offer my experience of the halogen to xenon swop, I did this on my B7 using the parts from @t8ups . The original halogen dipped beam was pretty woeful, road detail fell into what was almost semi darkness, especially with oncoming traffic. The high beam was equally uninspiring. The Xenon projectors coupled with 100W halogen colour matched high beam lamps were a revelation - high beam was stunning. Dipped with the projectors output made for a much safer driving experience. If I had make one small negative, as there is such a sharp cut off on the beam pattern and negligable light 'spill', reading road name signs or signposts above the beam cutoff can be more challenging, where as the previous halogen have significant undirected light bouncing around the lamp unit and give a little general illumination all around. Overall one of the best mods I did for the money.
 
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gary_a4_quattro said:
Hi Mark, If I can offer my experience of the halogen to xenon swop, I did this on my B7 using the parts from @t8ups . The original halogen dipped beam was pretty woeful, road detail fell into what was almost semi darkness, especially with oncoming traffic. The high beam was equally uninspiring. The Xenon projectors coupled with 100W halogen colour matched high beam lamps were a revelation - high beam was stunning. Dipped with the projectors output made for a much safer driving experience. If I had make one small negative, as there is such a sharp cut off on the beam pattern and negligable light 'spill', reading road name signs or signposts above the beam cutoff can be more challenging, where as the previous halogen have significant undirected light bouncing around the lamp unit and give a little general illumination all around. Overall one of the best mods I did for the money.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary - I'm uncertain which path to follow: 1. Full blown OEM headlight swap for Xenon units, 2. Projector inserts into halogen units or 3. Xenon aftermarket kit with H7R bulbs
 
Either option 1. ( but I'm sure this could become quite expensive - depending upon how lucky you get with replacement headlamp units ) or option 2. ( if I bought a car again with stock halogens, it'd probably be one of the first mods I'd do ) Please don't go down the Xenon bulb 'upgrade' path, you may get a marginal increase in light output, but at the same time wholeheartedly p155 everyone off driving towards you with glaring ineffectively directed light.
 
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MarkWizard said:
Thanks Gary - I'm uncertain which path to follow: 1. Full blown OEM headlight swap for Xenon units, 2. Projector inserts into halogen units or 3. Xenon aftermarket kit with H7R bulbs
Click to expand...

Sorry to thread jack Karl, going down the projector route in halogens will be the better option if going for performance, there is only soo much OEM xenons can do, especially if they are a D3S setup.

We are the only stockist in the UK of morimoto projectors which are the best projectors on the market, they are not like the cheaper generic ones you find, if you look at the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 they are the entry level ones, they have been rebuilt from the ground up leaving older gen and generics literally wanting more. we have also just had the Morimoto M Bi LED projectors which I tested today and they are ****** awesome if you want new tech.

Trups
 
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No problem Trups.I am sure the Morimoto kit should offer more reliability and some more performance but I am really happy with what I have considering what it cost.
Took some pictures tonight on the way to work, The camera doesn't see exactly the same as a person would but you get the idea.
I don't get flashed at all by other people the cut off is very defined so they don't dazzle but they do put a lot of light out in front of the car.
Dipped beam
DSC 3007


Main beam

DSC 3008
 
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Hi Karl, just wondering if you've had any clutch issues yet? I'm on about 120k and had a tiny bit of clutch slip in 3rd gear at 4K revs but seems fine again now. I suppose with 880NM it's asking for it lol.

Just putting some money aside for the inevitable but have gotten stuck on the rear main oil seal. Does our CAPA engine have one? I've been looking at ETKA all over but can't find anything related to it. Does it even have one? Any other seals need replacing? It seems prudent to replace that at the same time seeing as everything has to come out.

I'll also be replacing the entire gear selector mechanism as they are plenty of bushing on that thing as well. £300 all parts added up on that linkage. Worth it when the gearbox and everything around it has to be moved anyway.
 
No clutch issues but I am only running 750Nm. I could have had over 800Nm but asked Rick to stick to 750Nm as I wanted long term reliability. Not sure about the rear seal but because of the way the transmission is fitted it's not like a normal layout.
The timing chains are at the rear of the engine.
 
I’ve done clutch on my stock 3.0tdi this summer. It didn’t sleep but the pedal was getting very hard after longer journey.
I don’t know how it is in CAPA but I’ve replaced the seal on my CCWA. It was sweating a bit with about 90k on the clock.


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Timber you have close to 900
880nm iirc
The clutch is very strong on these. I’ve done a few of these now, but off course clutch condition has a impact. I would replace with stock item.

Cheers
 
I am sure the clutch will take 800-850Nm when it's not got so many miles on it or if you aren't dragging around 1300Kg of caravan as I do with my car every now and then. I don't think I have seen uprated clutches for sale anywhere. The standard LUK item is cheap enough though for what it is.
 
bobby singh said:
Timber you have close to 900
880nm iirc
The clutch is very strong on these. I’ve done a few of these now, but off course clutch condition has a impact. I would replace with stock item.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean Bobby, I'm aware of the torque figure. I agree stock clutch is fine. It's most likely the mileage that is becoming an issue. However I haven't had any slip since then.

There are no uprated clutches nor do Sachs do one anyway. What I'm after is the rear main oil seal like Boniface says. Any more info on that bonifacey87? Partnumber would be very helpful.
 
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TimberVD said:
Not sure what you mean Bobby, I'm aware of the torque figure. I agree stock clutch is fine. It's most likely the mileage that is becoming an issue. However I haven't had any slip since then.

There are no uprated clutches nor do Sachs do one anyway. What I'm after is the rear main oil seal like Boniface says. Any more info on that bonifacey87? Partnumber would be very helpful.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I don’t have a part number. I bought it from TPS and just asked for it. I think it was something around ten pounds.


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Hi Karl, when you were doing the brake disc backing plates and air scoops, did you consider the VW Phaeton brake duct upgrade? Not as cheap of a solution but looks like it would be very effective. Backplate should fit ok enough with a bit of trimming etc. The Phaeton has got wheel arch vents that direct airflow similar to the TTRS.

Here are the pics and parts numbers if you want to have a look (these are from the big W12 Phaeton btw)

Checked with VW and these can be ordered in.

204258984 w988 h741
204258986 w988 h1317



VW Phaeton Air Ducts:
3D0 615 447 D - £21.57
3D0 615 448 D - £21.57

VW Phaeton Backing Plates:
3D0 615 311 C - £39.47
3D0 615 312 C - £39.47

- £122.08

N 109 849 02 M6x8 bolt - £6.72 (q. 8)
N 908 429 03 M6x12 bolt - £4.64 (q.8)
 
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I didn't look into this option because the problem with it is that there isn't a great amount of air flowing in the wheel wells.
The scoops would channel some air to the brakes but would work a lot better if there was a path for air from the front of the car to the wheel well.
 
You've got that already sorted though with the NACA duct TTRS wheel liners, I'd imagine that they would be sufficient for anything but the most extreme track machine....which would feed directly into these scoops. For sure they would work better than the small Macan baffles.
 
Hi Karl, question about the front brakes as i just bought a set of S4 brakes off eBay.

You mentioned the calipers are the same just the carriers are different. Did you replace your calipers or keep the standard ones?

Was it easy and straightforward to replace?

Thanks
 
I replaced the calipers and carriers together as the S4 brakes the calipers and carriers are painted gloss black from the factory.
Just unbolt the standard 320mm calipers and replace them with the S4 calipers and 345mm brake discs. If you don't want to break the hydraulic line then you will need to swap the S4 caliper carriers onto the existing calipers you have.
 
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Don't update this thread much these days as I don't do much to the car spend all my time tatting with the TT. The car has been uber reliable but did have an issue with it the other week after I noticed wet patches on the drive. Turned out to be diesel leaking from the extra diesel pump I fitted to help keep the fuel pressure up.
On the CAPA with the CP3 pump there is an in tank pump delivering fuel to the injection pump. On the CCWA the intank pump delivers fuel to a 5 bar electric pump that then passes the fuel onto the injection pump.
The extra pump I fitted was a generic Ebay item thats been on there a few years and now seems to be leaking from the crimped joint on the end of the body. So initially I removed the extra pump to see how the car went. Drives fine 99% of the time but found it very occasionally went into limp mode with low fuel pressure, not the best when you are half way past somebody overtaking them.
Doing some logging on VCDS. The actual pressure cannot follow the specified closely at high RPM and large injection amounts. I actually had it go into limp mode when I was doing a logging run. It seems if actual lags specified by 200 bar it will go into limp mode.
Normal injection pressure on a CAPA is 1600 Bar. Mine is mapped to 1800 Bar. This log without the extra pump.

Fuel pressure no pump


Decided to buy a secondhand pump off a 2.0 TDI B8 with the CP4 pump, the same pump as used on CCWA engines. Cheap enough at £30 and it fits perfectly as it's designed to fit where the filter is.
8K0906095B

DSC 3497

Done some testing tonight and normal service is resumed :) . No limp mode even when running car to the red line through the gears :) .
Actual pressure doesn't always meet specified but it's a lot closer so won't go into limp mode now.

Fuel pressure with pump
 
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