2018 RS3 Exhaust Delete Plugs + Loop

Ratched the ScanGauge out finally... off out for the day though so will get round to checking for faults tomorrow

D9B3FA3C 6908 4F71 91EE C29B68B898C7

Good news as it looks like my cars running fine with the delete plugs in :icon thumright:
 
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Can someone help me ..
I ordered it today and I get an email with instructions to test something out.
This is what they write to me.

" Thanks for your order,
due to multiple configurations of the RS3 FL , we need you to make some checks on your car, so the correct parts can be sent.
From the loom/wiring which plugs into the valves, we will need to know, which pins have the circuit and which resistance measured at 20ohms

maybe you will find the circuit on pin 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 , let us know.
You will need to have access to a multi meter, is that something you're comfortable to do?
"
 
Can someone help me ..
I ordered it today and I get an email with instructions to test something out.
This is what they write to me.

" Thanks for your order,
due to multiple configurations of the RS3 FL , we need you to make some checks on your car, so the correct parts can be sent.
From the loom/wiring which plugs into the valves, we will need to know, which pins have the circuit and which resistance measured at 20ohms

maybe you will find the circuit on pin 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 , let us know.
You will need to have access to a multi meter, is that something you're comfortable to do?
"

Oh that’s not very good is it, they can’t expect the average buyer to have access to a multimeter like this.

My second set worked, the resistor was required on pins 2 & 3, the first set they sent me had the resistor on pubs 3 & 4.

My car is a UK October 17 build, if that helps you as you will then need the plugs with the resistor on pins 2 & 3.
 
So, mine is working now :)

Second set of cancellers and it worked straight away. Odd how with the old set the cancellers would clear one side on its own but not both together.

Anybody who has these I recommend checking for fault codes as it seems the majority sent out up until now COULD have been in the wrong configuration especially the very early ones purchased at the beginning of the year, the manufacturer since realised that there are a few different configurations.

The two sets I’ve had have had the resistor on different pins. The first set had it on the two outer pins, the second set has the resistor on the inside pins and works perfect.

I haven’t driven the car since fitting them as I’ve been waiting for the damn weather to dry up but I’m going to try and get it out for a blast after work late tonight, excited to give it a go.
 
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AudiNutta,
have you already done a test drive?

I have yes.

It isn’t plainly obvious but I’m sure I can feel a stronger pull through 6000rpm, enough to pin you a little more in the seat which when I referred back to the dyno chart what I felt is what it appeared to show.
 
Before I destroy my car due to sheer incompetence, does the cable just pull out? I had a feel for it earlier and gave it a little pressure but didn't want to rip it out. And how easily will it go back in? I'm really just curious to hear the difference.
 
Noooo don’t just pull it... there’s a little clip to press in and then they will pull apart easy! Going back together you just need to put it in until you hear the clip set back in place :icon thumright:
 
Noooo don’t just pull it... there’s a little clip to press in and then they will pull apart easy! Going back together you just need to put it in until you hear the clip set back in place :icon thumright:

Roger that, Phil! I'm going to go and give it a go in a second just on the passenger side. I'm just curious after reading this thread how noticeable a difference will be made. If I like it I'll buy the plugs in OP!

It'll get an error code and strangle power without those clips, correct?
 
As far as I can tell, it just gives you that gruntier sound in the lower rev ranges (as expected). It also makes some of those downshifts pop a little louder which is nice.

Unrelated, I actually saw a BMW M division prototype whilst I was out and about. Can't wait for this to drop to market.
 

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Yea it’s a nice little improvement to the note of the exhaust for a very little cost mate... get the plugs bought and fitted :icon thumright:

haha why do people do it! Wasn’t that long ago I was sitting in traffic going to work and the car in front was a Seat Leon ‘Type R’ :wtf:
 
Yea it’s a nice little improvement to the note of the exhaust for a very little cost mate... get the plugs bought and fitted :icon thumright:

haha why do people do it! Wasn’t that long ago I was sitting in traffic going to work and the car in front was a Seat Leon ‘Type R’ :wtf:

Wish I had an answer for you! Did make me chuckle though.

To be clear I only need to buy: https://vwpartsinternational.com/sh...oval-fault-code-off-wire-connector-new-parts/

And then slip the loose connectors in and cable tie them off. I'm curious as to why there's two listings in OP and why I would need both.
 
The listing in the OP are;

1 link to the fault code delete plugs (x2)
...and...
1 link to some blanking plugs (x2)

It’s so you have a plug/blank in each of the parts you’ve disconnected if you get me
 
The listing in the OP are;

1 link to the fault code delete plugs (x2)
...and...
1 link to some blanking plugs (x2)

It’s so you have a plug/blank in each of the parts you’ve disconnected if you get me

But... I've only unplugged one thing on either side...

Sounds like I'm going to have to get back under the bumper. :sos:
 
But... I've only unplugged one thing on either side...

Sounds like I'm going to have to get back under the bumper. :sos:

Yea that’s right mate... but you need the 2 delete plugs to plug into the parts on the valves... and then the 2 blanks to plug into the end of the cables you’ll tuck out the way
 
Yea that’s right mate... but you need the 2 delete plugs to plug into the parts on the valves... and then the 2 blanks to plug into the end of the cables you’ll tuck out the way

Frighteningly obvious. Thank you. I'm going to hide from these forums for a little while now. :haudrauf:
 
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Frighteningly obvious. Thank you. I'm going to hide from these forums for a little while now. :haudrauf:

haha put it down to all the excitement of getting the job done mate :tearsofjoy:
 
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Received the set Exhaust Valve Terminator today :icon thumright:
The resistor for me was on pins 1 & 2 (the two outer pins).
My car is a Belgium one build in May 2018.
Tested on fault codes with OBdeleven and no error to be found.
The cold start was amazing...OMG.
Very nice deep gurgling sound of the 5 cyl during cruising..on the highway between 2 to 3k rpm more increased resonance (try to live with this:stupid:).
Further no more stupid sound from those valves that always go on and off sometimes with a squeaky sound at low rpm.
Best mod/price for the RS3...me happy.
 
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Just thought I'd post a quick walkthrough in case anyone wants to do this but is a little unsure. Basically, you'll need the two parts in OP.

The two parts look like this:

RS3 Valve Part 1


The longer of these fits onto the connector at the end of the loose wire. The shorter one fits into the exhaust valve controller itself.

From there, you'll need to start the car and cycle through to dynamic mode. You should hear the valves open. I did this with the engine running, but you'd probably be wise to just pop it in park and wait for the start stop to kill the engine. Just be aware it might pop back on. There's no reason you should get a face full of smoke as you can get right under the bumper from the side (excluding those with huge heads).

From there, you'll simply need to find the cable with a kind of ribbed rubber outing. Don't just yank it out, there's a clip on one side of it kind of like pulling out an ethernet cable or an old school telephone cable. Depress that and gently pull the cable out. It doesn't require much force.

From there, fit the longer part onto the dangly cable termination (official Audi terminology) like so:

RS3 Valve part 2


Then, slide the smaller part into where you took the cable out, like so:

RS3 Valve Pt 3


Finally, cable tie the dangly part off, as otherwise it will be swinging in the breeze and prone to destruction... like so:

RS3 Valve part 4


I will probably recable-tie this a little better when I next go to my car as I don't like how it just dangles down like that (even though it is 'the dangly bit'). That's pretty much job done. Start your car and cycle through the modes and you should notice that the car no longer has the valves opening and closing.

If I've missed anything, do let me know.
 
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Just thought I'd post a quick walkthrough in case anyone wants to do this but is a little unsure. Basically, you'll need the two parts in OP.

The two parts look like this:

View attachment 166781

The longer of these fits onto the connector at the end of the loose wire. The shorter one fits into the exhaust valve controller itself.

From there, you'll need to start the car and cycle through to dynamic mode. You should hear the valves open. I did this with the engine running, but you'd probably be wise to just pop it in park and wait for the start stop to kill the engine. Just be aware it might pop back on. There's no reason you should get a face full of smoke as you can get right under the bumper from the side (excluding those with huge heads).

From there, you'll simply need to find the cable with a kind of ribbed rubber outing. Don't just yank it out, there's a clip on one side of it kind of like pulling out an ethernet cable or an old school telephone cable. Depress that and gently pull the cable out. It doesn't require much force.

From there, fit the longer part onto the dangly cable termination (official Audi terminology) like so:

View attachment 166782

Then, slide the smaller part into where you took the cable out, like so:

View attachment 166783

Finally, cable tie the dangly part off, as otherwise it will be swinging in the breeze and prone to destruction... like so:

View attachment 166784

I will probably recable-tie this a little better when I next go to my car as I don't like how it just dangles down like that (even though it is 'the dangly bit'). That's pretty much job done. Start your car and cycle through the modes and you should notice that the car no longer has the valves opening and closing.

If I've missed anything, do let me know.

Top tip, tuck the loose end of the cable up into the hole in the chassis member you see behind it in your picture.. job done.
 
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On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
 
On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in

Is it when you first start the car from cold? Maybe just the car altering the revs as the engine heats?
 
On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in

The revs dip on mine for a moment after the first couple of minutes running if left idled, for example in the time it takes to lock the garage back up. Always done it..
 
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The revs dip on mine for a moment after the first couple of minutes running if left idled, for example in the time it takes to lock the garage back up. Always done it..

I’ve had it on various other cars too... I think it’ll be pretty common @Tristan2 so wouldn’t worry about it :icon thumright:
 
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I'm leaving mine plugged in until Audi resolve this issue, Although I'm waiting for confirmation it is actually a new part as some have had it replaced and still had the issue.

Saying that, I am getting paint flake off the exhaust now so i'm very pi**ed off as it is!

I have just picked my RS3 up and I too have noticed the exhaust rattle. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, had and resolution from Audi on this matter?
 
I have just picked my RS3 up and I too have noticed the exhaust rattle. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, had and resolution from Audi on this matter?

Don’t quote me on this... I’m sure someone will know better than be and be along soon enough, but...

...I’m sure Audi say it is part of the warming cycle and it’s here to stay I’m afrid mate...

...knock the car into Dymanic before you start it and you don’t have to listen to the annoying rattle though :icon thumright:
 
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Hey Guys, I'm new here and just got these plugs installed.
Here is the easy installation video:
 
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On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
Mine does the same , sounds like the cars misfiring? Anybody else get this??
 
Try again original first.
Already checked for errors ..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn WAS-LX1A met Tapatalk
 
Mine does the same , sounds like the cars misfiring? Anybody else get this??

Mine are fine mate, when did you order them, the very early deliveries had the pins in the wrong place, I sent mine back after they confirmed they were the old model, and have had no issues at all with the new plugs.
 
Mine are fine mate, when did you order them, the very early deliveries had the pins in the wrong place, I sent mine back after they confirmed they were the old model, and have had no issues at all with the new plugs.

They informed me it was very early orders that were wrong, Jan 18, and they corrected from the Feb 18 onwards (mine are from start of Feb)

When did you buy your first set mate? @zaka7
 
They informed me it was very early orders that were wrong, Jan 18, and they corrected from the Feb 18 onwards (mine are from start of Feb)

When did you buy your first set mate? @zaka7

Same as you mate, Start of feb, and when I contacted them they said to send them back and they'd look, they reviewed and sent me the new ones :) no issues with them now, and make the car sound how it should!! Under 3k revs anyway cause over the flaps obviously would be open.
 
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Same as you mate, Start of feb, and when I contacted them they said to send them back and they'd look, they reviewed and sent me the new ones :) no issues with them now, and make the car sound how it should!! Under 3k revs anyway cause over the flaps obviously would be open.

I’ve never had, or noticed any problems with my early Feb 18 ones... but looks like I’m in the 50/50 lot as to whether they’re the right ones or not... I’ll get them sent off next Monday and have them checked... for the sake of posting them it’s better to be sure :icon thumright:

I didn’t check some time ago for fault codes and there was nothing present, but I’ll find out for curtain go from there!
 
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I’ve never had, or noticed any problems with my early Feb 18 ones... but looks like I’m in the 50/50 lot as to whether they’re the right ones or not... I’ll get them sent off next Monday and have them checked... for the sake of posting them it’s better to be sure :icon thumright:

I didn’t check some time ago for fault codes and there was nothing present, but I’ll find out for curtain go from there!

Worth it mate. Nothing to lose.
 
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Worth it mate. Nothing to lose.

Thinking along the same lines mate... gave the car a clean today and removed the deletes ready to send back and have them checked :icon thumright:
 
Worth it mate. Nothing to lose.

Mine have been swapped to a brand new set too mate and posted back out... really quick and easy to deal with, gives you confidence to buy from them again for sure :icon thumright:
 
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Decent, I was really impressed too!
 
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