2007 A4 Buying Advice Please

go for it tom, ive had mine just over 2 weeks now n this is how it looked/looks

Love the wheels!

Car your looking at sounds fine, people are just paranoid.

Stick in a cheap eBay bluetooth OBD2 fault code reader and if it brings nothing up and drives like a dream with no rust etc buy it.

Will any work aslong as it's OBD2? and is it the Carrista app you use? A lot on the SEAT forums reccomend it.

Small world - I went to see this car at Evans Halshaw Bretton a couple of weeks ago, basically the day after it had come in.
They couldn't let me test drive it as their mechanics had not checked it and if something happened to me on the test drive then they would be liable blah, blah, blah. (wish they had told me that before the 70 minute drive to get there)

It was a few hundred quid over my budget anyway so left it at that.

Good luck if you purchase.

Haha, small world indeed. What did you think of it from looking? Looks in decent shape for age.

Thank's for the replies guys, I have more or less decided to buy it, just waiting on the dealer to get back to me with some more details and I will negotiate a purchase. Will have to arrange a service and timing belt change myself sometime as the dealer will not budge and give the car one. Quite annoyed about that but it looks like a nice car, it feels good, and it's the closest one to me with that mileage and price so I'll stoop for it. Just hope it treats me well!
 
Hi Tom.S92 - Yeah it looked ok for its age and mileage was quite low, which will actually put some people off.

I wasn't that impressed with Evans Halshaw as they said the vehicle wouldn't go through a full prep like at other Evans Halshaw dealerships, and it would basically be sold as seen with a wash and hoover. Also the fact I couldn't test drive it and was looking at another one that afternoon. (which I ended up buying - A 2006 manual 2.0 TFSi S-Line with 69k miles for £5.2k)

The missing gaps in the service history and the very low mileage between some of the MOT's also put me off a little.
But the main factor was I only had £5.2k to spend and this is £5.9k. If I had a bit more cash then I may have gone for it - just for the heated front seats :rockwoot:
Good luck if you do purchase.
 
fair enough, i'd be interested to see the final bill to be honest as I had 3 quotes all from indy's ,and good ones ,cheapest of the 3 was £270 fitted ...even at 2 hrs labour @ £60 per hour +vat will be £144.00 alone without the parts, none of the dealers or indy's I spoke with said it could be done in less than a couple of hours.
keep us upto spec on it.


Just got the car back from garage and just took a pic of the receipt for you.



104 quid all in with part and g22 coolant :)
 
as I suspected, proper prices up your way, stupid prices down here...your got a result there then...note to self, move up north now as its way cheaper ..
 
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Just a quick update. I bought the car, picked it up today and loved the 1 and a half hour journey home in it! Just one thing wrong ... the emission control light has come on. Anyone have any idea what this means? The avg mpg is 27 which I thought to be a little low aswel?
 
I get 30 out of mine

Hmm seems suspect that. Get a code reader plug It in
Worth their weight in gold them

Is it driving any differently?
 
I get 30 out of mine

Hmm seems suspect that. Get a code reader plug It in
Worth their weight in gold them

Is it driving any differently?

When you say code reader, would a cheap OBD2 one off amazon or ebay work?

Couldn't really say if it was driving any differently or not. Only driven it for an hour and a half.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Managed to borrow an OBD reader and the code that has come back is:

P0011 - A Camshaft Postion Timing Over - Advanced or System Performance Bank 1

Anyone know what this means and if the car is safe to drive? I was supposed to be making a 4 hour trip to Cardiff tomorrow :expressionless:.

Thanks.
 
Camshaft sensor or something to do with timing being out: https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...d-or-system-performance-bank-1-by-jay-safford

Does it start and run ok? If so maybe timing is fine?

Sorry not much help I know, good luck finding the issue

Well I don't know if it was just me but it did seem to take a little longer to fire up, only a second or two but again that could just be me looking for issues. Other than that not really noticed anything different.

Timing belt hasn't been changed since new I don't think. Could it be related? It's already booked in for one and a water pump this Wednesday.

All the help is appreciated so thank you for the reply mate!:smiley:

Anyone reckon it's ok to drive for now? It's booked in for a disgnostic on Tuesday, all paid for by Evans Halshaw. But I just want to drive it! It's tortue having it just sat there! Haha.
 
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Just took the car out for a quick drive to see how it's performing and I noticed a few things of which I'm not sure if they're normal or not.

  1. Idles at about 1,200rpm on first start up then drops to about 800 when warm. Assuming this is normal.
  2. There's a knocking/ticking noise coming from the back of the engine (closer to the windscreen). Not very loud but noticeable.
  3. When changing gear in low gears such as 1,2 and 3 the revs don't drop instantly as you press the clutch. Seems to carry on reving for a second or two.
Any ideas are always appreciated.
 
Revs holding at 1200 then dropping to 800 is just the cold start so nothing to worry about.
Number 2 would be the rear timing chain/tensioner worn. Audi decided to have a cam belt and a chain
And number 3 could be the clutch switch or the throttle body needing a clean.
 
Revs holding at 1200 then dropping to 800 is just the cold start so nothing to worry about.
Number 2 would be the rear timing chain/tensioner worn. Audi decided to have a cam belt and a chain
And number 3 could be the clutch switch or the throttle body needing a clean.

Thanks. I'm guessing number 2 is an expensive job? And would that bring up the check engine light on the dash and the P0011 code I have do you think? The car's under warranty luckily.
 
Whilst inspecting the engine bay I noticed a lot of water beside the battery, is this normal on these?

Thanks.
 

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There are drain holes in the scuttle panel that get blocked. Quite a common issue on this car. Definitely unblock them before it gets any worse!
 
No worries. Ones under the battery, ones under the servo.

Google 'Audi B7 A4 Flooded Footwell'. There's pictures on page 2.
 
No worries. Ones under the battery, ones under the servo.

Google 'Audi B7 A4 Flooded Footwell'. There's pictures on page 2.

Perfect. Thanks.

As for the engine knocking mentioned earlier, here's a video:

Only happens when the engine is warm.

 
Definitely sounds like the cam chain/tensioner, mine makes the same noise.

AKS are fixing mine next month.
 
Definitely sounds like the cam chain/tensioner, mine makes the same noise.

AKS are fixing mine next month.

Oh dear. Is it ok to drive like this? My local garage are diagnosing mine on Tuesday. If they're going to have to replace the tensioner should I ask them to replace the chain while they have everything out? I'm assuming it's difficult to get to.
 
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I'm sure it will fail at some point if left. I don't think it's one of those 'oh god stop driving the car' sort of problems though.

It's a **** of a job, so personally I'd do the lot while I was in there.

I don't have a wealth of experience with these engines though. As ever, seek professional advice. :D
 
I'm sure it will fail at some point if left. I don't think it's one of those 'oh god stop driving the car' sort of problems though.

It's a **** of a job, so personally I'd do the lot while I was in there.

I don't have a wealth of experience with these engines though. As ever, seek professional advice. :D

So it's not as bad as if say the timing belt went?

It's under warranty so I'll ask the garage, if I pay for the part replace the chain aswel.

Anything else that would need changing whilst they have it open? I'm guessing it would be advised to use genuine Audi parts for this sort of job.

Sorry for the bucket full of questions but I've just got the car and this has happened. Quite stressful. Glad I found this forum though. You guys have been amazing with your answers and I hope when this is fixed I can give back when I get to know the car. :grin:
 
I managed to remove the plug under the battery without actually removing the battery. Does it look something like this?:

Just making sure I haven't pulled something else out that's important :tongueout:

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IMG_0812.jpg


I also saw this little clip just lying beside the battery. Anyone know what it's off?

IMG_0813.jpg

IMG_0815.jpg
 
Yes that is one of the bladders you need to release to let water out the scuttle.
1

Here it is in place.

In my reading about noisy cam chains, everybody who had it fixed replaced the chain, the tensioner and the guides. I'd recommend doing the same. It could be a stretched chain, it could be a worn tensioner, and the guides are cheap.
 
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The one in the middle at the bottom of the pic is the best one to remove, bit fiddly but can be done without removing the battery
 
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Just a quick one guys. Evans Halshaw have had the car since Monday investigating the P0011 code on the dash and the knocking noise from the engine and have said it was all down to a dodgy camshaft sensor and the timing was just ever so slightly out. Can a malfunctioned camshaft sensor cause the knocking noise in the video above? Seems odd to me but I'm no mechanic.
 
have a read....a general overview Tom.

3 Symptoms of a Failing Camshaft Sensor
3 Symptoms of a Failing Camshaft Sensor
A failing camshaft sensor can be identified based on any one of the three following symptoms.


1. "Check Engine" Light
The first symptom of a failing camshaft sensor manifests as a warning from the car’s control module. As the camshaft sensor fails, the computer sends the driver a warning sign via the “check engine” light on the car’s dashboard. When the check engine light first comes on, the driver has enough time to service the car and replace all faulty parts, including the failing camshaft sensor. However, if you ignore this flashing light for a considerable time, it could later lead to severe engine trouble.

2. Disrupted Driving
Another symptom of a failing camshaft sensor is experiencing constant disruption while driving. If you are experiencing symptoms like frequent stalling, poor idling of the car at 500 to 600 rpms, a massive drop in the rpms slowing down the car to a crawl, a noticeable drop in engine power, poor mileage, abnormal acceleration activity, frequent stumbling, etc., it probably means you have a failing camshaft sensor that needs immediate attention. If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, it is best to seek a mechanic before the situation gets worse and the car gives up, refusing to start at all.


3. Ignition Trouble
If you ignore all of the above symptoms, you end up with one that really can’t be ignored—no ignition. Remember, as the sensor begins to weaken, so does the signal it transmits to the car’s computerized control station. If you let the problem carry on for too long, the engine will suffer from a “no spark” situation. Once the signal switches off, so will your engine, thereby stranding you. Thus, it is best not to let your car get to this stage.



Warning Signs of a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor Warning Signs of a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

Crankshaft-Position-111641.jpg
Crankshaft-Position-111641.jpg


it needs immediate attention. Ignoring the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor will result in rapid wear and tear of the various parts of the engine and will quickly lead to engine wear-out. Fortunately, warning signs of a bad crankshaft position sensor are easy for the driver to detect. Read through the following points and keep an eye out for any one of these warning signs.

The Blinking of "Check Engine" Light
The simplest and most obvious symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor is the blinking “check engine” light in your car. Fortunately, this light is programmed to come on well in advance, allowing you to take care of the problem before the car is left immobile and you are left stranded. Once the light comes on, be sure to contact your mechanic for a quick look-over or take your car in for servicing.


Ignition Malfunction
When the crankshaft position sensor begins to fail, the signal it transmits to the vehicle’s computer begins to weaken. If left unattended, the signal will switch off completely. This, in turn, causes the car’s spark plugs to die out, killing the engine. If you are having problems starting your car, it could indicate a bad crankshaft position sensor.

Stalling and Backfiring
Another sign of a sensor malfunction is the constant stalling and backfiring of the engine. In such a scenario, the engine is prone to cutting off from time to time, stalling as you drive for a few seconds. Unlike ignition malfunction, the car will probably start, even run for a while, only to shut down somewhere along the way. It goes the same for engine backfiring. If you keep ignoring the warning signs though, the engine may get exhausted and die out.

Engine Vibrations
As mentioned above, the sensor regulates the crankshaft position. Once the position sensor begins to fail, you’ll notice a considerable increase in engine vibration. This in turn will ruin your mileage as well as engine power.





 
have a read....a general overview Tom.

3 Symptoms of a Failing Camshaft Sensor
3 Symptoms of a Failing Camshaft Sensor
A failing camshaft sensor can be identified based on any one of the three following symptoms.


1. "Check Engine" Light
The first symptom of a failing camshaft sensor manifests as a warning from the car’s control module. As the camshaft sensor fails, the computer sends the driver a warning sign via the “check engine” light on the car’s dashboard. When the check engine light first comes on, the driver has enough time to service the car and replace all faulty parts, including the failing camshaft sensor. However, if you ignore this flashing light for a considerable time, it could later lead to severe engine trouble.

2. Disrupted Driving
Another symptom of a failing camshaft sensor is experiencing constant disruption while driving. If you are experiencing symptoms like frequent stalling, poor idling of the car at 500 to 600 rpms, a massive drop in the rpms slowing down the car to a crawl, a noticeable drop in engine power, poor mileage, abnormal acceleration activity, frequent stumbling, etc., it probably means you have a failing camshaft sensor that needs immediate attention. If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, it is best to seek a mechanic before the situation gets worse and the car gives up, refusing to start at all.


3. Ignition Trouble
If you ignore all of the above symptoms, you end up with one that really can’t be ignored—no ignition. Remember, as the sensor begins to weaken, so does the signal it transmits to the car’s computerized control station. If you let the problem carry on for too long, the engine will suffer from a “no spark” situation. Once the signal switches off, so will your engine, thereby stranding you. Thus, it is best not to let your car get to this stage.



Warning Signs of a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor Warning Signs of a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

Crankshaft-Position-111641.jpg
Crankshaft-Position-111641.jpg


it needs immediate attention. Ignoring the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor will result in rapid wear and tear of the various parts of the engine and will quickly lead to engine wear-out. Fortunately, warning signs of a bad crankshaft position sensor are easy for the driver to detect. Read through the following points and keep an eye out for any one of these warning signs.

The Blinking of "Check Engine" Light
The simplest and most obvious symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor is the blinking “check engine” light in your car. Fortunately, this light is programmed to come on well in advance, allowing you to take care of the problem before the car is left immobile and you are left stranded. Once the light comes on, be sure to contact your mechanic for a quick look-over or take your car in for servicing.


Ignition Malfunction
When the crankshaft position sensor begins to fail, the signal it transmits to the vehicle’s computer begins to weaken. If left unattended, the signal will switch off completely. This, in turn, causes the car’s spark plugs to die out, killing the engine. If you are having problems starting your car, it could indicate a bad crankshaft position sensor.

Stalling and Backfiring
Another sign of a sensor malfunction is the constant stalling and backfiring of the engine. In such a scenario, the engine is prone to cutting off from time to time, stalling as you drive for a few seconds. Unlike ignition malfunction, the car will probably start, even run for a while, only to shut down somewhere along the way. It goes the same for engine backfiring. If you keep ignoring the warning signs though, the engine may get exhausted and die out.

Engine Vibrations
As mentioned above, the sensor regulates the crankshaft position. Once the position sensor begins to fail, you’ll notice a considerable increase in engine vibration. This in turn will ruin your mileage as well as engine power.

Thanks Rob. Similar to what I read. Nothing about knocking unless the engine vibration means similar? Hmm. Worried about driving an hour and a half to pick the car up to find the knocking is still there.