2.5TDi V6 quattro Sport 180hp Turbochip

Sounds serious, when I hear you describe how much soot she's coughing out I fear that driving WOT at top speed on long stretches isn't healthy ! Exhaust temperatures risk being much to high cooking the turbo, exhaust valves and head gaskets...
White smoke could indicate that coolant found it's way past the head gasket into the combustion chambers.

Give it a tiny sniff of start pilot in the air filter to get it running (tiny bits at a time, isn't all that healthy for diesels, when she starts and revs up cut the engine, after that you will get her started normally). Look for bubbles in the expansion tank while engine is running. Check oil for water contamination.

I hope you get her running allright soon

B.R
 
Hook up VAGCOM and use the TDI timing checker, like that you are sure the timing is within spec. When it was set correctly using opening pressures at 180 bar you will see that it has shifted a bit at 250 bar, if outside the two lines you should correct timing and measure again.

B.R
 
Garage sounded optimistic today, had manually primed fuel system and she fired without clouds of white smoke. Now focussing on fuel system relays. Don't think any internal damage at the moment.
 
Disconnecting the temp sensor isn't the right solution either, sometimes she still shudders and also injection timing is just too advanced. I guess the only thing to do is reducing idle speed to minimum over adaptation channel in the ECU and installing a resistance in the throttle position sensor circuit so the car thinks it is just above idle. This would in my opinion deactivate the idle stabilisation and avoid shudder.

What I saw on Diffas youtube films was that his car had exactly the same shudder symptoms with the big nozzles at idle which were completely cured by increasing the opening pressures from 180 to 250 bar, I'm not sure however that he used the bosio R683 or some smaller IVECO or Cummins nozzles.
I plan on increasing the opening pressures also.
He has some very interesting dyno plots also showing boost pressures, he runs 1,5 - 1,6 bar and is getting 277 hp !!! Nice !!!!

I am investigating water/methanol injection also, there are some neat controllers available at low cost, I want to use a 20/80 methanol/water mix, it's the cooling aspect that I want. It will give maybe another 10 to 15 hp but more important keep exhaust temperatures under control and keeps the engine/turbo clean (which could be beneficial so the vanes of the VNT don't get sooted stuck)

Diffas, Fjtwelve, Adamms24, does anyone of you have a KWP2000 or other tools so you can download your ECU maps ?
Sometimes it helps to investigate the altered maps, I for example had a 'tuning' map from a well known (respected ?) company that had some very bad bugs in it, the VNT was set to increase to a value which was impossible to reach and occured at that moment it shouldn't be anywhere near that position.


Now the car has developped a very bad vibration which got worse over the last months, I fear my differential bearing and input shaft bearing are badly worn.

B.R
 
Hello black wagon maybe you can download from the link up of the cars of the Youtube Diffas I would like to look at the times on Youtube? Thanks
 
Sorry I've forgot this topic still exists. :)

What I've read here you have same opening pressure problem that I had. I had 205-210 bar opening pressure first and that didn't work
at all! Now I have 235 bar opening pressure and it runs smooth. It's on the edge now, because when running hard and fuel warms up some very little shuddering is still present. Thats why I recommend something like 250 bar for that big nozzles. What I've heard R638 are maybe even too big if you are not able to do correct ecu mapping and big turbo, exhaust and fmic too.

And yes I'm running Cummins 5.9 Isb Cr engine nozzles that are 8x0.16mm large compared to stock ones 5x0.18mm or newer engine type nozzles 6x0.16mm. Any clue how big those r683s are?

Here are some of my videos: Audi 2.5 TDi - YouTube
 
I think the R683's are way bigger, I think about 80% more flow than the stock items.
When I compare that to the 8 hole .16 you have they should flow about 33% more than the 6 x .16
Now I must find out how to increase the opening pressures, the stock injector body of the 683 is set to open at 180bar, which is problematic. We will need a rod that is about 0.6mm longer to get 240bar.

I have a set of nozzels that give 20% more flow over the stock AKE nozzles, but they do have a peg that needs to be carefully cut off (maybe not all of it, it can be left for about 0.6mm to get to the 240bar opening pressure).

Hearing your car run on the video's you've posted gives us courage :))
I noticed you are running 1.5 bar boost on the last dyno runs, before I saw a graph indicating 1.6 bar, did you decrease the boost pressure for some reason ?

Who did your mapping ? Any chance we could download the map with Galetto or KWP2000 ?

Do you run a stock dualmass flywheel ? I can't wait till my singlemass flywheel and performance clutch arrives.


B.R
 
I had with 1.5b boost 267hp and with 1.6b boost 277hp. We have calculated that my current nozzles flow about 39% more than stock ones, based stock mg compared to current mg. Currently feeding ~72mg total (EDC says 51.5mg.) Earlier I used to have 1.8 boost but with new heads I was forced to decrease the boost due increased EMP. I think my current turbo is having way too small turbine that after 4000rpm we are forced to cut fueling from 51.5mg -> 45mg but still having ~260hp @ 4900rpm - so that means with 51.5mg I should have about 290+hp @ 4900rpm.

I'm stuck with the stock flywheel indeed with full set of SRE. I'm afraid i can't download the EDC, you have to find good mapper or I can give you my current tuner contacts.

Not sure if I'm already posted dynoplot but here are results compared to 1.5/1.6:AFR/BOOST http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/dynot/21-10-2011__amw_afrboost.jpg and TQ/HP http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/dynot/21-10-2011__amw_teho.jpg


 
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That's interesting and would also match with following estimation, stock AKE injectors flow enough for max 210hp, yours are 40% bigger, given the engine will have the same thermal efficiency at higher power levels (which it won't), it would produce 1.4*210=294hp.
Taking in account the extra heat losses and friction it will be a bit less-> around 280hp

You mentioned having higher EMP with the new heads, I also have the later B-series heads on my AKE engine, but ported end polished them, they seemed very restrictive on the exhaust ports. However I have the impression that the roller cams of the B-series heads are more emission oriented than the A-series. Maybe that explains for the higher EMP you noticed when swapping the heads ?

Which turbo are you running ? I have a KKK BV50 of a 3.0 TDI which will need some modification before it can be installed.
But there are also some bigger compressor wheels that could be installed on the GT2252V, like the 60mm item from the 2260 (would require some machining of the housing but would appearantly fit the axle)

Don't you get lots of vibration from the flywheel between 1700 and 2400 rpm when accelerating hard ?
If you are interested I can give you the contact info of the company that is making my single mass flywheel.

B.R
 
blackwagon said:
That's interesting and would also match with following estimation, stock AKE injectors flow enough for max 210hp, yours are 40% bigger, given the engine will have the same thermal efficiency at higher power levels (which it won't), it would produce 1.4*210=294hp.

Taking in account the extra heat losses and friction it will be a bit less-> around 280hp

You mentioned having higher EMP with the new heads, I also have the later B-series heads on my AKE engine, but ported end polished them, they seemed very restrictive on the exhaust ports. However I have the impression that the roller cams of the B-series heads are more emission oriented than the A-series. Maybe that explains for the higher EMP you noticed when swapping the heads ?
Click to expand...

IMHO all injectors are same sized. Earlier engines as A-series had larger hole but less holes and B-series smaller holes but having one more hole. That's because emissions - better atomization, better fuel burning etc. I will try more advance on higher rpms and hopefully resulting smokeless and more power. I'm pretty pleased with the current setup thats why there's nothing going on atm. :)

There isn't difference between A and B-series engine heads. Having both in my hands without cams and valves you really can't tell
which is which. I think that higher EMP is caused by the better flowing heads.

Which turbo are you running ? I have a KKK BV50 of a 3.0 TDI which will need some modification before it can be installed.
But there are also some bigger compressor wheels that could be installed on the GT2252V, like the 60mm item from the 2260 (would require some machining of the housing but would appearantly fit the axle)
Click to expand...
I'm running with the stock turbo hybrid. There are machined wheels inside from the Bmw E61 3.0D. 44.5/60 comp (5 blade) and 50/45 turbine. I'd like to see what happens when having bigger turbine-wheel because there's one bigger option available and I believe it's also from bmw and size is about 51.5/47 - maybe the extra 2mm would do the trick. Who knows. :) I'll probably keep my current turbo as it is - as said before, I'm very pleased with the current performance. I'm looking for a bigger wg turbo for reaching higher hp and sure if it work good daily driven, I'm considering selling my current turbo. You won't believe how many people are asked about it.:)

Don't you get lots of vibration from the flywheel between 1700 and 2400 rpm when accelerating hard ?
If you are interested I can give you the contact info of the company that is making my single mass flywheel.
B.R
Click to expand...
I'm getting some vibrations from 3rd gear acceleration, other gears are running pretty smooth. Don't know why that is so. I've torque limit present at lower revs, so no over 400nm torque before 2000rpm. :) Usually I switch down for gears to keep revs around 2500-3000 for better acceleration.
 
I changed to my other set of tyres/rimms on the front today, vibration and grinding noise is gone !!
Very strange, I don't see anything wrong with the rims and tyres, vibration I could understand from a tyre having a blister, but that horrid grinding noise is a mystery. I can't see any rubbing marks on the rimms nor tyres.

I am going to do some testing with another MAP sensor, a 3 bar item instead of the 2.5 that is currently installed. That should increase my boost pressure to about 1.6 bar max. I know that custom mapping should be done, but I just want to have an idea if the R683's are still capable of overfueling with that amount of air going in the engine. I will only test this very briefly, since the stock 2052 won't withstand for long at these pressures.

Indeed, looking at your dyno results I see that torque is limited at low rpm, probably to prevent the turbocharger from surging and to avoid the dualmass flywheel to be hammered into bits.

Today a BMW 530D tried to hang on my tail when overtaking some slower traffic, he didn't succeed :)

Do you have part numbers for the nozzles you are using ? I have contact with Bosch who could give us the exact flow rates.

B.R
 
The problem has turned out to be failure of the crank pulley. It appears to have come adrift from the crank. Now all the belts and covers are off we can see that the pulley has tipped forward. So it looks like this has been my problem all along, as the pulley has been wobbling more and more the timing has been slowly getting further out and eventually it has failed. There could be some top end damage, but the failure occurred as i was starting the car not as i was travelling at high revs, and there was not the horrendous noise that i heard when the engine partially seized after oil pump failure all those years ago. Hopefully if pistons and valves came together there wasn't too much damage.

I am not going to split the engine and take the heads off to get all this fixed, its beyond me now. The best thing would probably to break it as the car is in pretty good nick for the age, but i have nowhere to do it. However I have negotiated with adamss24 and he is going to take charge of the remains. I hope that the old girl lives to fight another day but it rather depends what he finds inside the engine.

So it really is the end of my story now, its been an interesting 6 years and i've learned a lot. I hope a few people have been sufficiently interested to try and release a bit of the huge potential lurking inside these engines, and that the discussions and projects continue. Good luck!:arco:
 
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Martin, sorry for your missfortune but i'll try and fix her if i can- depends how much damage there is to the bottom end ! That must have been some torque she had to break the crankshaft pulley like that they are very strong on the old v6 and it's the first i've heard of ! I've sent you a pm last night regarding payment, i can either pay you cash and meet you in London somwhere or give-it to your missus, your call really ! Let me know and i'll make my way to Falmouth ! Thank You !
 
blackwagon said:
...
I am going to do some testing with another MAP sensor, a 3 bar item instead of the 2.5 that is currently installed. That should increase my boost pressure to about 1.6 bar max. I know that custom mapping should be done, but I just want to have an idea if the R683's are still capable of overfueling with that amount of air going in the engine. I will only test this very briefly, since the stock 2052 won't withstand for long at these pressures.
Click to expand...
2052 compressor is be fine with the 1.6b boost but the exhaust flow may be too big for it and that is the problem with those nozzles.
You will probably get still loads of smoke and lots of EMP. Probably limiting fueling by 40% or even more would give less smoke with stock turbo. :)

Indeed, looking at your dyno results I see that torque is limited at low rpm, probably to prevent the turbocharger from surging and to avoid the dualmass flywheel to be hammered into bits.
....
Do you have part numbers for the nozzles you are using ? I have contact with Bosch who could give us the exact flow rates.

B.R
Click to expand...
Actually tq limiting isn't shown on my dyno-plot because they are ran in 4th gear so boost is coming up little later than it would with 5th and 6th gear. Next time I dyno I'll make some comparison runs between gears. I'm happy with the performance overall and I don't need revs under 2000rpm when overtaking and accelerating. :)

Nozzles I have are DSLA143P970 (5.9L Cummins isbe cr)
 
Hello to everyone here on the board will still wahnsinnig.Also jets are in there cars with opening pressure of 250 bar, runs quieter than usual but still not entirely about someone can be an idea to which everything else!
And one more thing I drive to install the nozzles of the injection timing with Vag-Com and mechanically adjusted to 2.2 to 2.4 degrees after TDC late. Now, a sample of what I like is the first in which he smokes an enormous white blue what is all the more the more gas I give and smells like oil.
Is yet to cause it to turn bad so the Tiptronic as they would not attack one who is strong gas :-(! So all in all total schrott.Hoffe here someone can help me with the Probelm! Thanks to all ....
 
Hello people I can not anyone help with this Problem.Happy glad someone who has similar problems can tell me what to do is to accomplish this problem? Maybe ECU software?? I'm very grateful for any help!
Many say that the kan adamss24 help but do not come to him like Adams's PN.Bitte via email to me: ture-moffo@gmx.de
Many thanks to all!
 
The problem is that your text is something that is like encrypted message and unreadable. :)

What I maybe understood is that your pump is late, but it should be something like ~1degrees BTDC. Little early is better.
When burning oil, you have may have jammed crankcase breather or turbo is finished.
 
Good morning diffas sorry with my English do, always ask about a Translator.Eine do you mean 1 degree OT vort in the default setting in the Vag-Com at the temperature reading 004 blocks in 80 degree water?

Thank you very much
 
GCamjose said:
Good morning diffas sorry with my English do, always ask about a Translator.Eine do you mean 1 degree OT vort in the default setting in the Vag-Com at the temperature reading 004 blocks in 80 degree water?

Thank you very much
Click to expand...

Hallo,

Ich schreibe mal auf deutsch.
Wenn du deine Düsen auf 250bar eingestellt hast sollte wahrscheinlich das Problem des Rücklen bei Leerlauf nicht mehr vorkommen.
Das Qualmen jedoch wird hierdurch nur sehr geringmäßig besser sein gegenüber 180 oder 220 bar Öffnungsdruck.
Das Pumpenrad verdrehen wird eigentlich nicht viel ausmachen, einmal der Motor dreht regelt das Steurgerät das Einspritzmoment nach was vorgegeben is in die Mapping. Wenn die Pumpe soweit verdreht wird das die Regelung es nicht mehr schafft (also gegen Anschlag fährt) die vorgaben der Mapping zu erzeugen dann kann es sein das du aufneu einstellen sollst.
Die Bosio R683 sind sehr groß, und können nur einigermaß Qualmfrei auf die Straße gefahren werden wenn die Mapping angepasst wird, nach meinem Gefühl ca 30% weniger Einspritzzeit kombiniert mit Erhöhung das Ladedruckes bis ca 1.6 bar.

Wie läuft deinem Motor im Leerlauf, läuft er unrund, so ähnlich wie Zündungsaussetzer ?

Meiner macht das mit die R683, deswegen will ich Öffnungsdruck erhöhen bis 250 bar.
Hast du irgenwo Unterlegscheiben gefunden für die Düsen oder wo hast du das machen lassen ?

M.f.G

Stefan
 
Hallo Stephan freue mich über deine Antwort,zu deiner frage habe es bei Bosch machen lassen und hat ein Schweine Geld gekostet sie auf 250Bar einstellen zu lassen.Zum vergleich muss ich sagen es ist schon besser als bei 180 Bar im Standgas,aber immer noch nicht schön sauber,mal mehr mal weniger.Wen ich das richtig verstanden hab muss das ganze über die mapping gemacht werden bezieht sich das auch auf das Standgas?Zur Zeit ist das Motorsteuergerät noch Original bei mir,meinst du das es wen es modifiziert ist besser ist im Standgas?Habe aber noch ein grösseres Problem und zwar Spinnt meine Tiptronic rum,das schalten geht nicht so gut,also es ist so das ich auf der suche bin jemand der mir mein Getriebesteuergerät umprogamiert,so das meine Hydraulik Pumpe im Getriebe mehr anpressdruck auf die Lamellen im Getriebe gibt,weil die zur Zeit durch rutschen:-(Kannst du dir gern mal anschauen bei youtube.Wenn du magst kann ich dir auch ein paar Logs von Messwert blöcke schicken 1-4-8?
[h=2]IMG_0983_x264.mp4[/h]
 
Hi Stephan I appreciate your answer, ask to have it done at your Bosch and has a pig cost money to set it to 250bar lassen.Zum comparison I must say it's better than at 180 bar at idle, but still not nice clean, sometimes more, sometimes I weniger.Wen the right have understood then the whole is to be made ​​about the mapping also be grown in the state gas? currently, the ECU still mean original with me, is that you are who it is modified better at idle? but I have a bigger problem and that spinning off my Tiptronic around, that's not so good, so it is so I'm looking at myself as someone of my umprogamiert my transmission control device, the mean hydraulic pump in the transmission more contact pressure on the lamellae in gearbox is because the slip by the time :-( can you look at times like youtube.Wenn you like I can tell you a couple of blocks to send logs from reading 1-4-8?
 
Good morning to you and stephan all we could to help me on skype email and ICQ kontackt take on, unfortunately I'm not in the PN board zurecht.Versuche're a long time to send a PM to you, unfortunately, string beans erfolg.Tu me please the and please get in touch via email: ture-moffo@gmx.de or Skype: gcamjose or ICQ :629-948-492 or on Facebook Giosue Camarda!
Would be really pleased about your help and could really use it well!

Thanks a million and up soon!
 
Little progress on the a6, took the engine apart, all rocker arms broken, some lifters were new some were old- few had no more visible oil hole as the valves kept striking the rocker arms ! The new, shiny cams which were replaced at the rebuilt time are marked- such a waste of new parts ! Anyway, i started porting the heads, managed to remove 5mm+ of material from the head, i concentrated a lot on modiffying the inlet ports and maximising the flow on the exhaust ports. The way the v6 heads are cast is one exhaust port has twice as good ports as the other and the inlet ports are very restrictive. I expect a good 20-30% flow increase now.
Had TNT failing to deliver on 2 ocasions the forged INA lifters,trust pads and rocker arms i bought from germany so it looks like i have to collect them myself from their depot ! The heads will be built with all new Kolbensmidth (KS) cams, INA lifters and rocker arms.
Also managed to get the injectors back from dieselbob after 2 weeks, he mentioned that 1 nozzle is slightly overfueling compared with the rest- so much so for Bosio's quality control ! The only way to fix is by buying a new nozzle- i wonder if that was the reason for the iddle shudder !
Hope to get the engine rebuilt by the end of the week, have blisters from lapping the valves in ! I wanna drive the car as soon as possible but need to have it Mot'd and taxed first ! here are a few pics of the stock and ported heads side by side !
DSCF3935.jpg

DSCF3934.jpg

DSCF3933.jpg
 
It's alive ! Still slightly lumpy idle when hot, but idles perfect when cold ! Still loads of smoke before 2000 rpm's but clears when rev's increase. Taking it for Mot tomorrow so i hope it passes ! Few more pictures...
DSCF3936.jpg

DSCF3937.jpg

DSCF3938.jpg

DSCF3939.jpg

DSCF3940.jpg

DSCF3941.jpg

DSCF3942.jpg

DSCF3943.jpg
 
Took it for a spin and it's still too smokey under 2000-2500 rpm's. I think that i need to send the injectors to Finland or Sweden to get them properly balanced, it looks like nobody knows how to adjust modified parts in uk ! Car has plenty power but i took it easy as i am still watching for leaks or odd things to happen. One boost pipe blew last night whilst i was giving it some beans in 3rd, need to look for a stronger stainless jubilee clip...
So far is ok, i will take it to MOT this morning so fingers crossed that it will pass without major issues. Car is in very good mechanical order considering the age and mileage, Martin's kept it in tip top condition !
 
blackwagon said:
Diffas, Fjtwelve, Adamms24, does anyone of you have a KWP2000 or other tools so you can download your ECU maps ?
Sometimes it helps to investigate the altered maps, I for example had a 'tuning' map from a well known (respected ?) company that had some very bad bugs in it, the VNT was set to increase to a value which was impossible to reach and occured at that moment it shouldn't be anywhere near that position...
B.R
Click to expand...
Stefan, you can get self tuning devices on ebay for £299 from Viezu or Chipped uk. They are the real deal and you send the logs and they will just adjust the file to suit then email it back to you. The good thing is that you keep your original tune and also get a economy tune in the price. How good they are with custom mods i don't know but i would stay clear of cheap clones off fleabay as i managed to upload mp3 tracks at some point to a friend's ecu a few years ago !

I will get flanges for the GTB2260vk turbo and fit that instead of the turbo dynamics hybrid that i have at the moment, i have a large selection of turbo's to choose from.
 
Hi, i would take full throttle boost logs on monday, after i get the car taxed. Here in London, i cannot afford to run the car without road tax as it's just going to get towed away if the police stops me ! It's also 6 points on license which can lead to a subseqvent ban which is no good in my profession !
 
HerefordQuattro said:
How's it going Chris? passed mot I hope?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay, had to go abroad at short notice ! Yes, the a6 passed the Mot ok (friendly tester!) but i still have the smoke issue. Will meet some chap this Saturday who is good at tuning so probably will tweak the map from celtic. I don't believe they did a a good job, seems to me that they use Martin's car as a test rig ! Anyway the car is running great so far (bar the smoke issue) and i've just replaced the rear springs and shocks as the ride on the stock springs and Koni FSD was appalling ! Shiny new Sachs genuine (heavy duty) shocks, Eibach pro spring kit and a new rs6 rear antiroll bar + bushes have done the trick. Mind you, the standard sports rear antiroll bar was just a few mm thinner than the rs6 one.
Anyway, the car feels planted and the way it's left the factory. Still in 2 minds if to keep or not as i also have a b6 04 plate avant which is better kitted and drives better out of the box. The only downside is that is no quattro but i've bought a 02 plate quattro sport last week ! See where i am going ? Hint: 04 plate 163Bhp FWD, low tax and insurance, new cam roller engine with quattro diff/gearbox swapped from the other = LOW tax and insurance 180 Bhp quattro sport fully loaded: leather, sunroof, bluetooth, Bose, cruise, etc.
All i need a few days bolting and un-bolting parts from one to another !
 
diffas said:
I had with 1.5b boost 267hp and with 1.6b boost 277hp. We have calculated that my current nozzles flow about 39% more than stock ones, based stock mg compared to current mg. Currently feeding ~72mg total (EDC says 51.5mg.) Earlier I used to have 1.8 boost but with new heads I was forced to decrease the boost due increased EMP. I think my current turbo is having way too small turbine that after 4000rpm we are forced to cut fueling from 51.5mg -> 45mg but still having ~260hp @ 4900rpm - so that means with 51.5mg I should have about 290+hp @ 4900rpm.

I'm stuck with the stock flywheel indeed with full set of SRE. I'm afraid i can't download the EDC, you have to find good mapper or I can give you my current tuner contacts.

Not sure if I'm already posted dynoplot but here are results compared to 1.5/1.6:AFR/BOOST http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/dynot/21-10-2011__amw_afrboost.jpg and TQ/HP http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/dynot/21-10-2011__amw_teho.jpg
Click to expand...

Are you sure about the 39% over stock ones.I'm running the same P970 but when I calculated them they are 26,42% over the 5x180 ones.I found another that are 7x190 and flow 56% over the stock ones and i think to order them.
When we talk about the stock ones - How do you calculated that 5x180 is the same like 6x160?The second ones are with smaller flow than the 5x180.
 
More smaller holes can flow same as fewer bigger holes. More smaller holes makes better vaporization, due higher pressure.
I haven't done any official measures of nozzle flows but it's based more like to achieved results.
 
diffas said:
More smaller holes can flow same as fewer bigger holes. More smaller holes makes better vaporization, due higher pressure.
I haven't done any official measures of nozzle flows but it's based more like to achieved results.
Click to expand...

I speak from a mathematical point of view.I'm using formula for flow through a pipe,where the flow is the size of hole divided by two multiplied by itself multiplied by 3.14 multiplied by the number of holes. This is at constant or the same pressure of the diesel.


ps.sorry for my bad english.
 
diffas said:
You have to remember when you got better vaporization and therefore better burning = more powah. :D
Click to expand...

I know that.:D But 56% more fuel with 7 holes i better than 80% more fuel with 6 holes :).We will see.I don't know how much can the clutch hold.
I recently found a new type of noozles that are experymenthal but i don't know who can produce them.I have a pdf file where it's explaned the principle of work and the benefits but I don't know how to upload it.
 
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Thanks for sharing your story as it happened - I have only just come across your thread. I was hoping for a happy ending but maybe that is car ownership! Thanks again, Tom.
 
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