2.0tdi stuttering at certain rpm

Toblahoe

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Hi all,

I've had this problem for months now but it's only just started to annoy me, at about 1500 to 1600 rpm I get very slightly stutter which happens when cold and warm, it can be noticed in higher gears but is much more noticeable lower down, however it's not violent unless i get it at the right spot in 1st where it's almost like the engine is cutting out and then starting again.

Also for some reason it's not like this at any other rpm range at all, it's that specific that sometimes it's hard to get the car to replicate it, but is definitely around the 1600 area.

I've read about the Anti-Shudder Valve being a bit of a problem on these, could it be that?

Many thanks.
 
Pretty sure it was a boost solenoid valve on mine that caused this correct me if am wrong.do you have access to vag
D
 
I Had this same issue for a while, for me it was one of these three that cured it and I have just done them, now the car is much better and idled smoothly.;

New dual mass flywheel and clutch (I think this was the culprit),
Timing belt change and timing corrected,
Oil pump and balance shaft removed.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
I always start with basics. New fuel and air filters and then scan for faults stored in the ECU
 
Thanks for the response guys, unfortunately I only have access to odb 2 and the trial of vag com which doesn't seem to work on my car, I've had a new clutch and dmf fitted recently and I had the balance shaft hex key replaced when I got it, I also had a service done last year which included fuel and air filters.

I'll look into the boost solenoid valve and the timing, the timing could be an issue as I'm getting squeaks from it I think at low rpm and idle when cold.
 
Only reason I point at this as I had this valve replaced and it fixed my issue. Sure I was around 30+ and was able to do job there and then. However I then went onto replacing turbo, timing kit, clutch flywheel both engine mounts lol next up suspension and this is were I'm stuck.
 
Ahhh right I see. I'll see if I can get vag com onto it before doing any work, thanks for the help!
 
Mines had a similar problem earlier this year, turned out it was the rubber membrane on the actuator for the intake manifold had tore. Worth a look
 
I agree with e_kel95 . Actuator on inlet manifold. £10 for a new one. Fairly easy diy job. Clean out the inlet manifold while you're at it.
 
How do I replace that, for £10 it's worth a try but I'm not much more than a "YouTube mechanic"
Thanks
 
How do I replace that, for £10 it's worth a try but I'm not much more than a "YouTube mechanic"
Thanks
Its' not too bad, just a case of unbolting egr then inlet manifold. They came apart easily when I did mine. probably about an hour at the most. Once the inlet manifold is off you'll probably find it full of crud, this can be cleaned out using choke cleaner spray. Pic of actuator attached, make sure you have one on your car ( some don't ) it's at front of engine on top just to the left. There's a good guide on here somewhere about removing egr, I followed that. after that the manifold is easy enough.
Vac
 
Thanks mate! I've opened up a parts request for all the gaskets I'll be taking off (4 in total I think, comes to about £30) however he didn't know what the code might be for that part, I'll double check my engine has one.
 
Sorry for double post, just had a look while on lunch, this little thing here is the culprit? Looks easy enough to get at! What does it do?
20171005 132331
 
Sorry for double post, just had a look while on lunch, this little thing here is the culprit? Looks easy enough to get at! What does it do?
View attachment 137982
I'm pretty sure it controls the flaps inside the manifold. These will probably be caked in crud, have a couple of choke cleaner aerosols handy . Be aware when you remove the manifold that often one of the bolts will be hard to see as it gets covered in sooty crud, a quick scrape will expose it.
part number for vacuum unit S03G129061C about £13 last year from tps, gasgets not much at all. Theres a video on here somewhere showing egr removal
 
i have the same at 3000 revs, judders and loses power. not sure if in safe mode or not. oh and i dont know if its related, but every time i start up i have a brake warning. any ideas?
 
Brake warning light could possibly be a sign of weak battery.
I get this with my b6 in the winter.
 
I'll be cleaning the Inlet Manifold and replacing the actuator this weekend if the weather is good, I'll let you all know what happens.
 
Hi All, Completed the clean out today, car is performing much better. There wasn't as much carbon as I've seen in other threads but there definitely was a lot. It's compeletly eliminated the stuttering problem and I have gained some amazing throttle response to the point where I can actually feel the engine pull before the turbo kicks in (In high gears low rpm/It used to be sluggish to the point where turbo lag was hard to identify unless I got it the powerband)

There was one gasket I didn't replace because I couldn't see where it went (03l 131 547 b) however everything seemed to be in good condition if you don't count the carbon buildup.

Also the engine is now extremely smooth when I turn it off, I never noticed how much it shuddered before I felt it so smooth!

vpc1f4.jpg
11lr4fl.jpg

2praafd.jpg

Could be cleaner I guess but I ran out of carb cleaner, also the flap in the 3rd Pic and the pipe coming from my intercooler had small amounts of oil in it.
 
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It goes between the ASV and EGR

On the other end/side of this..... Doesn't oesn't it make an enormous difference when it's all been cleaned!

I thought it did, the gasket there looked in good condition anyway, so no worries, yeah massive!