2.0t fsi complete boost loss

Roadrunner146

Roadrunner146

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Hi fellas.
Wondered if you can help me agin.
Driving to work this morning in the torrential rain and I lost all boost pressure. Tried turning engine off and on again to reset, but nothing.
Plugged in my phone to use the Torque app that i have, checked for faults , and nothing. Nothing on the dash either. Still the same on the homeward journey to.
I do get a small pressure reading through the Torque app, buts its just the standard pre readings you get just before the turbo spools up.
The DV has already been changed for the upgradded version, and I have tried the oil cap removal while engine running test, but no real issues there.
Does anyone have any idea.
Thanks

Brad.
 
id check the Dv
boost pipe
ic pipes
 
As above, check IC/boost piping.
 
audi upgrades
Right, I have checked my pipes, and all seems ok. I even pulled the new DV out to check it over, but there's not a lot that can go wrong with them.

What can I check for now. It's been a bit frustrating driving, knowing I have no power.


On a separate matter. While I was under the car, I noticed red fluid under the passenger side engine mount. Does this mean it has failed, the car has been feeling a little rougher than usual lately.


Thanks

Brad.
 
Can someone point me to the right place for the boost piping. I have checked the ic pipes under the engine. But I am not sure which pipes are the boost one's.
 
Right, quick update.
I have had another look and I have noticed that the long rod coming out of the back of the pressure unit is not connected to anything. Is this normal, it seems strange to have that long rod their with a threaded end and it not be connected to anything.
Also, I removed the lower passenger side IC pipe to check for small splits, and when I did so about 50 to 70ml of oil poured out on my driveway, again, is this normal.
Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to make sure I have covered everything before I give in and take it to a garage.

Brad.
 
Roadrunner146 said:
Right, quick update.
I have had another look and I have noticed that the long rod coming out of the back of the pressure unit is not connected to anything. Is this normal, it seems strange to have that long rod their with a threaded end and it not be connected to anything.
.
Click to expand...

oil can be normal if never emptied, it settles at the lowest point.

This rod, is it at the back of the turbo?
 
AHA, that'll be it. It's supposed to be connected via the nuts to the arm which activates the wastgate. Without it, boost is just vented away
 
Its going to be fun connecting that back up. I can just about see the waste gate on the back of the manifold. Looks like I will be getting some grazed knuckles tomorrow. Does anyone know what the connection at the waste gate end looks like. Brad.
 
Does this picture help? The turbo bypass valve is removed in this shot. The wastegate vacuum unit is visible at the top with the actuator rod coming out of it going to the wastegate (bottom rhs) on the turbo.

2013-10-26-5064_zps77344e43.jpg
 
I can't quite make out the connection in that shot, but thanks Al.
I have managed to find a linkage picture, but it's from a Golf, but it does give me an idea of what I'm looking for. HPIM1997wcomments
 
Dont turn the rod itself or you will tear the rubber inside the actuator.


Lynall
 
Hi all.
I've managed to sort the problem out, but it was a lot more evolving than I originally thought.
The waste gate actuation rod had actually snapped. So a bit of head scratching, I came up with a plan to repair it.
While removing the N75 valve, if that's what it's called, I managed to snap a small plastic pipe off a small switch located next to it.
So two repairs to do.

Been for a drive and I have my boost back, but not quite the same.
Boost comes in, but higher up the rev range and not quite as strong.
According to the boost gauge, I'm getting 4.8psi which is not full boost.
Am I right in thinking that the actuation rod is adjustable, if so, which is the correct way to adjust it, either clockwise or anticlockwise.

Here's some pictures of the repairs I did. The bolt used to fix the rod is a worktop connecting bolt. Worked a treat. And dont panic over the amount of glue used to fix the snapped pipe. It was super glued first, then epoxy resin spread around to give it some strength. 20131103 13395220131103 152035
 
the length is critical as youve found out you wont get full boost otherwise.

what a mare :(
 
What is the standard boost for a 2.0t fsi psi wise.
I will need to know this before I alter the length of the bar. Don't want to over boost.
 
There is some information here that may help.

Looks tricky to get the right adjustment / length. Good luck!
 
Thanks for that.
I have read a few threads on the subject. But because of the unique way my actuation rod broke and how it's been repaired, it should be a simpler job.
 
Well I managed to get under the car this morning, and what a PITA. 2 and half hours it took me.
When fitting the worktop bolt the first time, it must of wound in what was left of the actuation rod back into the adjuster, making the rod to short. I nearly lost the thread completely.
The only way I could think of to stop the thread rotating was to file down another bolt to lock the thread to adjuster, and it worked a treat.
While driving I am hitting peak boost at 14 psi, but normal acceleration, I am getting 7 to 9psi. I could tweak a bit further, but I am happy with what I have got. Not bad fix for £5 for bolt and super glue.

Thanks for all your help and advice fellas.

Brad.20131108 125431Screenshot 2013 11 08 13 31 35
 
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