1st Gen - HALDEX U/S No repair possible = ?

AGB-S3

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HALDEX U/S No repair possible = ?

Bit of a show stopper , im told , repairs to the first generation haldex
are NOT possible , likely most of the scrap items are in a similar state

Is there any repair facility for these old units ?

Ideas anyone ?
 
No gen 1 isn’t repairable new ones are over 1k and your old unit or get a 2nd hand (£100-200) are your only options
 
Yup, that's the story im getting
but with the units all being as old , s/hand may be just as bad
likely to damage the transfer box ?

other option seems to to be a 'BLUE' controller ?
 
Blue controller is just as old And as likely to fail but more expensive, if that fails
Your even more out of pocket, if you want a sports one get the hpa unit turns your standard one to a sports unit and if your unit fails you just get another standard one
 
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Thank's ,

Any pointer to suppliers ? see lots for 2nd gen , nothing for this old one ,
 
Suppliers for the hpa awesome gti
New standard haldex audi
And blue ones are 2nd hand only
 
Its a problem that will only get worse over time... I have a spare haldex controller that had done a reported 60k miles when I bought it... no idea when mine will finally give up the ghost but Gen 1 controllers are getting thin on the ground...

Don't even think about a blue controller... genuine ones are as rare as unicorn p00p and there are more than a few fake 'powder coated' std units on eBay fetching 500plus

One thing I am considering looking into is an 8P and later rear diff swap... the CAN protocol is the same by all accounts so comms wise the controller should work however its down to if the diff will physically fit...

Given VAG's inherent laziness it stands a chance but I already looked into 02Q boxes as a source for future gearboxes and they can be made to work with Ignitron as I can tell it to take the speedo signal from the ABS rather than the speedo sender on the box as the 02Q doesn't have one

Not sure about the VR... I haven't looked hard enough at the Mk5 to see if they did R32's in manual on those... I am fairly sure they did and if so again its a potential source of parts for our aging cars...

Will keep a lazy eye out for a rear diff... if one comes up at the right price (free ideally) then I'll make the effort to look into it :)

<tuffty/>
 
Its a problem that will only get worse over time... I have a spare haldex controller that had done a reported 60k miles when I bought it... no idea when mine will finally give up the ghost but Gen 1 controllers are getting thin on the ground...

Don't even think about a blue controller... genuine ones are as rare as unicorn p00p and there are more than a few fake 'powder coated' std units on eBay fetching 500plus

One thing I am considering looking into is an 8P and later rear diff swap... the CAN protocol is the same by all accounts so comms wise the controller should work however its down to if the diff will physically fit...

Given VAG's inherent laziness it stands a chance but I already looked into 02Q boxes as a source for future gearboxes and they can be made to work with Ignitron as I can tell it to take the speedo signal from the ABS rather than the speedo sender on the box as the 02Q doesn't have one

Not sure about the VR... I haven't looked hard enough at the Mk5 to see if they did R32's in manual on those... I am fairly sure they did and if so again its a potential source of parts for our aging cars...

Will keep a lazy eye out for a rear diff... if one comes up at the right price (free ideally) then I'll make the effort to look into it :)

<tuffty/>
Yeah the mk5 r32 did have a manual option
 
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Suppliers for the hpa awesome gti

I can see a control unit , but . not the device that bolts to the diff , there is a note ,

Important Note: This Does not Replace the existing Haldex Controller unit and can only be used with a fully working existing haldex controller

Back to square one ?
 
That’s what I said the hpa just enhances your standard one there’s only really to options 2nd or new the hpa is just an extra but you still need the standard controller
 
Gloom and doom sets in ...

rather makes , fixing the alarm sounder , like changing light bulbs on the titanic

I have a less mileage diff and ''working'' haldex , picked up last week ...


surely if there are so many dead ones about , someone would of set up a repair function ,
broken alloy wires, pcb coating and alloy soldering ?
 
As said in your other thread you don’t need to change the diff Aswell just the controller garage charged me an hour to do it ,
you Would think someone would of come up with something I’m sure many have looked in to but there’s got to be a reason why no company offers most likely because it can’t be done
 
The read diff is making a undulating wine at steady 80 on mway , stops when you lift off
so the new one is 40/50 K miles less , so hopefully , that and the haldex , will solve the
problem, aso needs a new drive shock absorber , , doing everything at once

I got the impression , it was a long process , to get the gel coating off the board and make repairs , needed alloy soldering , it looks like HumiSeal , which can be removed with ''HumiSeal'' solvent , alloy soldering has improved since the early day's ... I'll open the old one up , see whats dropped off [ hopefully]
 
the diff and the transfer box are the only original parts of the power train , [ apart from the prop shafts ] at nearly 180,000 miles its past its sell by date , probably asymmetric wear patterns on the gears , transfer the load, to the reverse , less worn side and all is well
 
Interesting test

Slow mo video , depicting wheel spin at starting, observable delay before the rear wheels spin up , [ for better view, use the youtube settings , play back speed and select the slowest ] front leads by about 90 deg

What is this showing . ?

Well , this is the system , that binds and jumps in reverse on full lock , is showing that the haldex is still under the vehicle control as its plainly disengaged at T =0 , ie , the electronics are working ...

Remove the fuse and the reverse problem stops [ no pump = no pressure ?]

So .. Its tempting to speculate , the problem is mechanical ,eg, servo control valve , no longer sealing , causing the system to be partially engaged , as its definitely not fully 'in' at the start , fronts rotate about 90 deg , before the rear start , 1 or 1.5 revolutions of the prop shaft ?