1999 S3 Front door speakers

S3 Dave

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Hi All, My passenger door speaker has given up the g after 6.5 yrs loyal service!
Can someone please tell me if there is a direct replacement ie component speaker i can buy to replace it with? I don't have the bose I don't think but have the stock sub amp etc. I would like to keep the tweeter seperate if i can. Links to ebay etc would be most appreciated!! If not can I get any 4 inch and run the tweeter aswell. Looked at the infinity 4032............INFINITY REF 4032 4" 10CM CAR DOOR REAR DECK SPEAKERS on eBay (end time 17-Nov-10 13:29:05 GMT)
Bit out of touch these days getting old lol!!
:anbet:
 
There is no direct replacement other than another Isophon Audi speaker, as the mounting on the door card is non standard. No aftermarket speaker will slot in without an adapter (Pioneer used to do a direct replacement but it is no longer available). Once you have the adapters, which only seem to be available for running a 5.25" driver, then any 4ohm unit will do, but I would go for a component set as the tweeters are gash, so replace these at the same time, they are 1" units and just slot in without any modification.
Those Infinity's are coaxial which you definately don't want.
 
Many thanks for your response!!!!
Do you know of any suppliers who can supply the adapters and speakers?? I had found the Pioneer set for the TT and A4 on Ebay and Wasn't sure if they would fit the S3??. Oh and do 5.25 fit the door cards?? Sorry to be a numpty but my days of amps crossovers and subs are long gone. I've just pulled the wire off the knackered speaker for now :).
Cheers!
 
Making perfect sense now! I'll have to check out your link at home as the Bay is locked out at work. Any discounts for forum members lol :)
If I was planning to keep the car longer I would of took the time for a serious upgrade but It'll be going In the Spring all being well! Time has come for more space and luxury.
Are the original speakers still available from Audi?? I can get parts at trade -20% so could work out cheapest option for a quick fix.
Thanx again! your stuff looks ace! If it was 6.5 yrs ago I would of had the sub as well :)
 
Didn't realise you had Bose, they are hard to come by on ebay. Make sure it is actually the speaker, as it is unusual for both woofer and tweeter to blow. The Bose amp that drives them is notorious for dry solder joints on the main PCB, this will cause crackling and distortion especially when the amp is cold. Try swapping the speaker for the other one and see if it is actually the speaker or the amp before going any further. The Bose front speakers are the same as the ones used in the Bose sub so they can handle a lot of power, my money would be on the amp. The amp is in the drivers side cubbyhole in the boot behind the rear lights. You need to resolder the main PCB joints:
A34champPCB.jpg

Very easy to do if you are handy with a soldering iron and preferably a solder sucker to remove the old stuff first.

I have fixed numerous Bose amps in this way. If you get a noticeable hiss when reheating the old solder then that is a good indication of a dodgy joint.
 
Nice one Andy! It is the speaker the tweeter is fine and when i took the speaker out it felt scratchy when i moved it! I heated up the lower cone with a hairdryer and moved it a few times and it seems fine at the moment! But i don't think it will last, did you manage to follow that link to the one for £45? I didn't think i had Bose either but i guess the early S3's didn't have the writing on the grills!! Have to see how it goes it aint worth £100 whatever i do!
 
Didn't realise you had Bose, they are hard to come by on ebay. Make sure it is actually the speaker, as it is unusual for both woofer and tweeter to blow. The Bose amp that drives them is notorious for dry solder joints on the main PCB, this will cause crackling and distortion especially when the amp is cold. Try swapping the speaker for the other one and see if it is actually the speaker or the amp before going any further. The Bose front speakers are the same as the ones used in the Bose sub so they can handle a lot of power, my money would be on the amp. The amp is in the drivers side cubbyhole in the boot behind the rear lights. You need to resolder the main PCB joints:
A34champPCB.jpg

Very easy to do if you are handy with a soldering iron and preferably a solder sucker to remove the old stuff first.

I have fixed numerous Bose amps in this way. If you get a noticeable hiss when reheating the old solder then that is a good indication of a dodgy joint.

Found a Bose Subwoofer on the bay for £15 so i'll just get that and break it. I'll have a spare then aswell!!
 
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