17748 reoccurring

Zans

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Hi, just go the 17748 error:

17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
Readiness: 0000 0000

It takes a while to reappear after clearing the code, around 5 mins.
By the ross tech wiki the probable causes are:
  • Timing Belt/Chain incorrectly installed
    • Timing Chain probably lengthened
  • Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
  • Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty
And solutions would be:
  • Check Timing Belt/Chain installation
    • Use Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) to Check Timing Chain
  • Check/Replace Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
  • Check/Replace Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
Now my question is what MVB should i check and what should i see? how do i verify if the sensors are working or not? I've got the full version vcds

Thanks in advance!!
 
Cam belt being a tooth out is the issue here 99.9% of the time...

Set bottom end to physical tdc using timing marks on flywheel/front damper pulley/long screwdriver in plug hole for cyl 1... Then check timing mark for cam pulley/cam cover... If this is not clear then pull cam cover and check exhaust cam timing mark at the timing chain end

<tuffty/>
 
Cam belt being a tooth out is the issue here 99.9% of the time...

Set bottom end to physical tdc using timing marks on flywheel/front damper pulley/long screwdriver in plug hole for cyl 1... Then check timing mark for cam pulley/cam cover... If this is not clear then pull cam cover and check exhaust cam timing mark at the timing chain end

<tuffty/>
Okay thanks. Any idea about the MVB for the timing chain?
 
All good now. found this post that explains everything


To test the timing chains often only the values in VCDS blocks 208 & 209 are deemed relevant. However, this is misleading for correct diagnosis of guide/chain wear and possibly other components.

Therefore, ALWAYS reference blocks 90 & 91 when checking blocks 208 & 209. This then basically references the cam to crank timing via the intermediate shaft by correlation of the crank sensor to the cam phase sensors.


• The timing chains values in blocks 90,91, 208 & 209 must always be read when the engine is warm. Measurements must always be taken at a minimum of about 60°C operating/oil temperature or higher, otherwise the cam adjustment is not yet fully active.

• Measurements are always taken at idle

Valid for both MK4 and MK5 R32:
• Blocks 208 & 209 should be as close as possible to 0°, the spread should not exceed 3°. The absolute wear limit is 8° spread whether + or minus. If the spread is well above 3° but under the limit, then chain & guide replacement should be considered.

Cross examination of the intermediate shaft values of blocks 90 & 91:

Golf 4 R32 only (intake adjustment range 52°/exhaust adjustment range 22°):
• Block 90 (exhaust) set-point is 0°, no matter the values in blocks 208 & 209, at a duty ratio of about 15.3%. The actual value should not be more than 0.5° out (Valid for both OEM & aftermarket cams). If the values are way off from 0° the timing chain may be mistimed or skipped. Around 11.25° deviation corresponds to a skip of 1 tooth.
• Block 91 (intake) set-point is 22° between idle to about 1200RPM, no matter what the values read in blocks 208 & 209, at a duty ratio of about 15.3%.
The actual value should not be more than 0.5° out (valid for both OEM & aftermarket cams). If the value is not close to 22° the timing chain may be mistimed or skipped. Around 11.25 ° deviation corresponds to a skip of 1 tooth.

Golf 5 R32 & Audi BUB only (intake adjustment range 52°/exhaust adjustment range 42°):
• For both blocks 90 & 91 the set-point value at idle is 0°, no matter what the values in blocks 208 & 209, at a duty ratio of about 15.3%.
The actual value should not be more than 0.5 ° (Valid for both OEM & aftermarket cams).
If the values are way off from 0° the timing chain may be mistimed or skipped. Around 11.25° deviation corresponds to a skip of 1 tooth.

You can for whatever reason also check the cam/crank timing manually by setting the timing to TDC via the timing mark on the crank pulley then pulling the cam phase sensors and checking where the centre parts of the cam variators sit with respect to the sensor hole. I’ll dig out a pic from somewhere and annotate it as it’s quite obvious once you see it. I guess this won’t be quite as accurate as checking blocks 90,91, 208 and 209 in VCDS but might prove helpful nonetheless.


Additional for consideration:

As is known faulty cam phase sensors cause spurious readings. However a surprising point to note is that high values are not always indicative of worn guides or a stretched chain! There have been many (and I mean many!) instances in Germany whereby poor service intervals (Longlife) has gummed up the cam variators/VVT assemblies/solenoids resulting in high values that’s clearly appeared to be worn chains but after several oil flushes and filter changes returned to almost perfect ‘out the factory’ values. There appears to be some correlation between the intercam timing spread and the intermediate shaft values that points to this; if I can find the original page I’ll save it off and translate it. As best as I can tell a good way to help in diagnosing if the chains truly require replacing is to also log the requested vs actual cam timing in VCDS. One of the symptoms of sluggish cam timing is mild bucking/hesitancy similar to a faulty MAF. If the actual values values are slow to match the requested values then his points to a gummed up VVT system or the inlet gauze possibly being blocked.

The snapped chain syndrome on the early MK4s was attributed to the Sachs stamping weakening the chain links and also related to chemical corrosion caused by the extended Longlife service intervals (A topic for a possible future post when I get around to translating it). Chain stretch was mainly attributed to buggy/poor implementation (in early software revisions) of the VVT causing cam kickback and resonance effects on the chains at particular RPMs; this also may attribute to guide wear (but the likely main culprit was still the extended Longlife -what an oxymoron- service intervals) and (I've not fully translated this yet) possibly linked to faulty pressure relief valves in some oilpumps although that again could simply be caused by the extended Longlife service intervals.



https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8367938-VCDS-Measuring-blocks-208-209-Help
 
Problem is I'm not getting any readings at mvb 90-98. Any ideas why?
 
Cam belt being a tooth out is the issue here 99.9% of the time...

Set bottom end to physical tdc using timing marks on flywheel/front damper pulley/long screwdriver in plug hole for cyl 1... Then check timing mark for cam pulley/cam cover... If this is not clear then pull cam cover and check exhaust cam timing mark at the timing chain end

<tuffty/>
Just checked all marks and they're lined up perfectly. The timing chain is at it's 16 position on the exhaust cam as shown on the ross tech website. Should be a faulty sensor then or oxidized connections. Any way to find out which sensor is faulty?
 
Here are some pictures of the marks
 

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No pictures of the bottom timing marks? Validated the bottom end is at tdc?

<tuffty/>
 
Have you validated cam to cam timing? Also check the cam position trigger wheel...

The error is because the ecu is not seeing a timing alignment between the cam position sensor and the crank sensor... A faulty sensor will give a code like open circuit or implausible signal...

The code you have is down to a perceived misalignment issue... This is typically a mechanical problem...

Cam to cam misalignment doesn't give this fault code as a rule... You get a G40 open circuit code or setpoint not reached code typically...

Have you had any work done on the head recently?

<tuffty/>
 
I'll double check the alignments. Nope no work done on the head ever
 
Have you validated cam to cam timing? Also check the cam position trigger wheel...

The error is because the ecu is not seeing a timing alignment between the cam position sensor and the crank sensor... A faulty sensor will give a code like open circuit or implausible signal...

The code you have is down to a perceived misalignment issue... This is typically a mechanical problem...

Cam to cam misalignment doesn't give this fault code as a rule... You get a G40 open circuit code or setpoint not reached code typically...

Have you had any work done on the head recently?

<tuffty/>
How do i validate cam to cam timing?
 
Rotate the exhaust cam anti clockwise (looking at it from the pulley side) until the inlet cam timing mark is aligned then rotate the exhaust cam back clockwise until the exhaust cam timing mark is aligned and making sure that the top chain tensioner pad is fully extended out...

Inlet cam should still be aligned to its mark along with the exhaust cam and there should be 16 rollers between timing marks

Didn't answer my question though... was there any work done to the head or engine prior to this fault appearing

<tuffty/>
 
Rotate the exhaust cam anti clockwise (looking at it from the pulley side) until the inlet cam timing mark is aligned then rotate the exhaust cam back clockwise until the exhaust cam timing mark is aligned and making sure that the top chain tensioner pad is fully extended out...

Inlet cam should still be aligned to its mark along with the exhaust cam and there should be 16 rollers between timing marks

Didn't answer my question though... was there any work done to the head or engine prior to this fault appearing

<tuffty/>
Okay did that and everything lined up within the marks limits. No work was done on the engine head
 
Here are 3 marks lined up. The cam pulley is a little off but not close to being a tooth off i think?
 

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Do you know a what angle difference the ecu throws a fault code?
 
picture of the cam marks... the exhaust cam looks off... looks like its behind the mark rather than in line with it

<tuffty/>
 
picture of the cam marks... the exhaust cam looks off... looks like its behind the mark rather than in line with it

<tuffty/>
You are right. Is it possible to adjust it? Or i need to change the chain because it's stretched?
 
Do you know a what angle difference the ecu throws a fault code?

a tooth out is 17 degrees or there abouts... my money is on the belt being out still... as I said in my last post... dunno what you are lined up on there but he exhaust cam looks out..
No work was done on the engine head
no work on the engine 'or' head? or just the head? that doesn't read right...

Has there been any work related or not on your car or any other mishap like a missed gear or strange noise...

All boils down to the fact that the ECU thinks the timing is out between the cam sensor and the crank sensor... I would start by aligning the exhaust cam notch to the mark on the cam cap.... then double check the bottom end timing marks on the gear box and crank pulley... if that align correctly and I mean spot on not a little off then the only other thing it typically would be is cam to cam timing or possibly even the cam position sensor wheel as this would cause the cam timing to be out of correlation to the crank... hence the code...

When I missed a gear change and buzzed my engine the crank pulley spun... this would also give the same fault code as its made of soft metal and deforms easily...

<tuffty/>
 
a tooth out is 17 degrees or there abouts... my money is on the belt being out still... as I said in my last post... dunno what you are lined up on there but he exhaust cam looks out..

no work on the engine 'or' head? or just the head? that doesn't read right...

Has there been any work related or not on your car or any other mishap like a missed gear or strange noise...

All boils down to the fact that the ECU thinks the timing is out between the cam sensor and the crank sensor... I would start by aligning the exhaust cam notch to the mark on the cam cap.... then double check the bottom end timing marks on the gear box and crank pulley... if that align correctly and I mean spot on not a little off then the only other thing it typically would be is cam to cam timing or possibly even the cam position sensor wheel as this would cause the cam timing to be out of correlation to the crank... hence the code...

When I missed a gear change and buzzed my engine the crank pulley spun... this would also give the same fault code as its made of soft metal and deforms easily...

<tuffty/>
I meant i never touched the head before. Neve had any missed gear changes..

Any way i can check that using vcds? Measuring block 90-98 doesn't show anything.
 
You are right. Is it possible to adjust it? Or i need to change the chain because it's stretched?
Its most likely due to the belt being a tooth out... if! the bottom end is on TDC... you will need to verify this physically by using a dial gauge or a suitably long screw driver in the plug hole of cyl 1... validate physical TDC from that, check bottom end timing marks (specifically flywheel)... check where the front timing mark is then look at the timing mark on the exhaust cam...

When the bottom end is physically at TDC and you have verified this then if the exhaust cam timing mark is in the same position as the picture before your belt is 'most likely' out one tooth... however I have seen this happen when the can pulley or the crank pulley key shears... this would have a similar effect

<tuffty/>
 
Its most likely due to the belt being a tooth out... if! the bottom end is on TDC... you will need to verify this physically by using a dial gauge or a suitably long screw driver in the plug hole of cyl 1... validate physical TDC from that, check bottom end timing marks (specifically flywheel)... check where the front timing mark is then look at the timing mark on the exhaust cam...

When the bottom end is physically at TDC and you have verified this then if the exhaust cam timing mark is in the same position as the picture before your belt is 'most likely' out one tooth... however I have seen this happen when the can pulley or the crank pulley key shears... this would have a similar effect

<tuffty/>
Okay thanks a lot! Will try to check with a screwdriver now