Downpipe question and remap info


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Jun 14, 2012
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Howdy, just got myself an xs downpipe sports cat and miltek middle section and back box
bit of info if I may, the old dreaded crappy downpipe. Do I need to completely remove the subframe to remove it or does it just need a few bolts undoing and allowing it to drop down an inch-ish?
Dont really want to cut it off if possible as il keep the old system incase I want to change it back to standard
ive searched for a how to with pics but can't seem to find out what I need to know.

The remap question is my car has already been remapped stage 1 and has a 007 forge valve and a neuspeed cone filter with heat shield and obviously my exhaust will be fitted soon, what next, badger 5 tip?
am I ready for stage 2? Ifso where would anybody recommend around Manchester?
I want to stick with the original intercoolers if poss.
What kind of power can I expect and how much is the stage 2 remap likely to cost (if I'm ready)
My cars an apy engine with 80k on the clock cambelt and full service just done with genuine bits
thanks in advance
Come on someone must of fitted there own downpipe! :)Need some info as I'm fitting it this weekend.
taken from my thread:

some tips for anyone and what i did:
  • split the downpipe at the flexi pipe, wiggled till it came apart, and prised it apart with a bar, this leaves just the top turbo bit of the downpipe, meaning much better acces to the bolts.
  • lower subframe on its bolts, gives you about an inch and a half
  • next, stubby spanners, ratchet spanners are a plus but ours were too fat.
  • facing in the cars direction, bottom, and rear most nuts off from the bottom and through the drivers wheel arch. top nut off from the top of the car
  • now, use all your magic to wiggle the top part of the downpipe out through the bar of the bay from underneath.
  • then, take your flange from the OEM downpipe, place it on the flange for the new one (in my case xspower) my new one was slightly fatter, and the oem one was difficult enough to get out so, i grinded the flange of the new one to about 0.5-1mm smaller than the OEM dp flange.
  • next, undo prop at the front of the car (3 bolts, then under a heatshield there is a centre join in the prob, undo its mount so you can slide the prop off (its on a spline), this gives you more room to fit the downpipe in.
  • use ALLLLLL your magic and determination to get that new downpipe in, i put mine in turned the wrong way, then once in the gap, turned it round.
  • now fit your dp with nuts in which ever order you like, the same ways you removed the OEM.
  • re-attatch prop, charge pipe, exhaust, any other bits and bobs, and see how it sits.
  • i had to knock my heatshield slightly to stop it contacting.
  • and FINALLY, prepare to jizz your pants as you start your engine and here the mighty growl of the exhaust!

as for the map situation. Stage 2 requires a FMIC or some sort of upgrade. the whole purpose of the stage 2 mods (downpipe and fmic) is to reduce the temperatures a stage 1 map creates, therefore giving you more power for longer.
id expect with your downpipe on you might find your power a little more consistent, however you'l still be restricted by your inlet temps and find the engine will get hot and power will die after long hard runs and at the top end, the standard coolers really are quite poor, and old and no doubt filled with crap.

if you're thinking of updating your map now you have the downpipe on, it really isnt worth it, the car will see lower EGT's now and wont be killing power when it gets hot, so its job is done.
if you havent got a B5 TIP or similar, get one, that WILL make a massive difference, also requiring no map adjustments.
then go from there, if you still want more, its FMIC time and a new map.
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Top guy exactly what I wanted, will reply once it's fitted
many thanks mate