Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

Nicola913 said:
Hi, thanks so much for the response. Problem with the roof is still not resolved so any help would be gratefully appreciated.
Does it need a replacement 'Central Convenience Controller?'
Click to expand...

Hi Nicola,

Controller, wiring or there is another parameter in the central convenience controller that is stopping the roof controller.

Regards
 
VagPro said:
Hello

When you say warning light, does the roof light flash ten times, or do you get a warning saying roof not secure?

Test the motor off the hydraulic pump with 12v

Next step is to check it with VCDS.
Click to expand...

Ok, I had a play with it, and if I unlatch it at the front and push the roof up a couple of inches, when I press the roof open button the motor kicks into life and the roof starts opening. But, it's all out of sync. The roof storage cover is trying to close before the roof has fully retracted into the compartment for example? Any ideas?
 
I having been having issues with my 2004 B6 cab roof.. It has stopped working a few times since owning (about a month) I bought it and it wasn't working, so I cleared the 02000 - Switch Position: Implausible Signal error and it worked fine for approx 10 times, then stopped again this time trying to lift the boot cover. roof put back down, error cleared and away it goes again for a number of goes, it then stops again.. clear the code and it's away.. I did it again last night, cycled the roof 4-5 times and it's fine.. looked at various measuring blocks, but obviously I'm not seeing much as it's working fine.. can I look at the measuring blocks when it stops again?

Also is there a handheld code reader that I could keep in the car and clear the code when it happens out and about (section 25 auto roof in VCDS)

Thanks
 
In February 2014 my roof failed in the open position and since following VagPro's procedure for cleaning the motor commutator and easing the sticking brushes, the roof operated perfectly.................................. until today when it did it again. Aaaarrrrrrgh!

This afternoon when I stripped the motor again I found there to be quite a build-up of carbon on the commutator so this time I took particular care to clean it off thoroughly with very fine wet and dry paper and then cleaned it with a rag sprayed with electrical switch solvent. When I turned my screwdriver in the slot of one of the brush holders there was an audible 'click' as the brush slid back into contact with the commutator so it was obvious what had caused the problem.

All is now working fine again so once again, a big, big thank you to Khurrum for sharing his expertise and saving me a whole load of money.

One comment, if I may, the pictures are now missing from the instructions at the beginning of this thread. This wasn't a problem for me as I'd done the job before but it would be really helpful if they could be restored to help newbie roof motor repairers.
 
evening guys ive a lump on my head that hurts from banging my head on the wall lol.....i have a 2004 audi a4 convertable with you guess with a roof that doesnt work ive had it set manually twice the roof light in yellow flashes all the time, ive plugged it into a snap on solus and came up with codes 02000 switch position not a plausible signal
0046control module for steering colum elecs j527 no signal no comms
00830 ecu for cabrio top operation j256 no comunication intermitant
also when i unlock car by key i turn clock wise the turn back then clockwise again within 2 seconds which should drop all windows and work roof ....
but it doesnt
now when i press roof switch nothing happens and it doesnt even unlock the latches now at dead end guessing i need to replace module behind rear door card or poss convienience ecu pls can some one with more knolwedge than me help pls
 
Mart838 said:
My roof light flashes 10 times when I start the car, but my roof works fine any ideas
Click to expand...

Mine too, hoping it's do with the battery level being low, just had to change mine but haven't had any stored faults cleared/read.
 
Thanks for the help Technics,

I suspect this could be the issue as I get the same and have done in over a year.

Fingers crossed it wont transpire to be anything else.
 
So obviously I am posting as I am having problems with my Cabriolet.

Details on the car, 2005 S4 Cabriolet. about 72,500 miles, bought used from Craigslist about 4 months ago. Overall no problems with car other than normal routine maintenance for an 11 year old car (and I think the Syncro's for 3rd gear are bad). But that changed the other day when the top decided not to open. Like everyone else, I have the flashing yellow roof light (blinks 10 times). I hooked it up to VCDS-lite and pulled the following codes...

2 Faults Found:
01996 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F294); Open
008 - Implausible Signal
01995 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F295); Closed
008 - Implausible Signal

I took to Audi and they confirmed that the Top Latch Assembly needed replacement for a mere $1,600.00. Per Audi they performed test and watched measuring values while operating latches and found signal does not change. They removed the Conv Top Latch Assembly and inspected harness found to be ok.

So I brought car home and pulled the Conv Top Latch Assembly and tested the micro switches with a multi-meter and found them to be ok. You can clearly hear them engage and the micro switches have continuity when hooked up and loses when the switch is open.

So I hooked the car back up to VCDS and when I tested the system and watched measuring values, I found the signal did change. I have the log and it shows the the switches operating in field 2 of the measuring block both F294 and F295. Cleared codes and tried to open again and it pulled the same codes each time I try to open.

The Conv Top Latch does nothing...it doesn't move at all. I think you can feel the motor try to move but not sure 100%.

I am trying to sort out the problem as the Conv Top Latch Assembly is not a cheap part I have read the forums (about everything out there) but have not heard one story about the latch assembly being bad. I am willing and able to purchase the $320+ part and install it but only if I really need to. I am hoping that it is a simple fix like the hydraulic motor or some of the other fixes and could use some advice.

On a separate note, I am going to do the hydraulic motor repair again this week (though I did hear the motor work) as I think when I cleaned the motor, I may have but the bell housing on backwards. If I manually unlatch the Conv Top Latch and lift it up slightly and then try to use the switch to open the top, it actually pushes the Conv Top down into the windscreen.

Any help is appreciated as it sucks living in Hawaii, driving a cabriolet and not being able to enjoy it.

Thanks
Tony
 
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Hi Guys and Vag Pro,

Hopefully you (plural) can offer your opinion..

I've just ordered AP coilovers for my car. I understand installing the rears will need to open up the boot lid to access the strut etc.

I know that roof can hold upt o 15minutes (I believe) in any postion before automatically coming returning to fully closed positon. (This happened when I had my windows tinted)

My question;

Should I instruct the fitter to electonically lift the boot lid or to open it manually via hand and audi key?

Reason i ask is that when me and the window tinter opened up the bootlid with roof half way in the air, it required a full manual reset via hand to operate again! Specifically, the roof opening and close cycle was disrupted due to it not completing (electronically) as it was holted mid air.

Im a bit worried i'll need to go through this debacle again.

Any help at all is valued.

Dan.
 
Stevieb2905 said:
Mine too, hoping it's do with the battery level being low, just had to change mine but haven't had any stored faults cleared/read.
Click to expand...

Update: Got a new battery, fault codes cleared, no flashing lights, everything seems OK.
 
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DrStrange said:
Ah Great to hear Stevie!

I need a battery too..
Click to expand...

Cheers.

If you haven't changed a battery yet I'm sorry to have to report that they are a bit of a ****** to get out - and in. After turning the air blue I eventually had to google it. Turns out there's a very awkward allen bolt for a clamp that is tight between the battery and engine bulkhead. I only had the allen key set for my push bike and could only get a tiny bit turn at a time with pliers. A very long ball ended key would make the job a lot easier because, as well as being almost totally inaccessible it's also at an angle! Ended up sitting on top of the engine block wrestling it out.

If you get the option of free fitting, jump at it :)

Also, there's no spare room in mine, battery needs to be exactly the same size.
 
Last edited:
Mart838 said:
What make of battery did you go for?
Click to expand...

Just went for the same one as was in it, a Bosch silver S5 (010 I think). Got it 'trade' from Euro car parts, still pricy at £125 but the last one was in the car since I bought it and lasted OK.
 
Stevieb2905 said:
Cheers.

If you haven't changed a battery yet I'm sorry to have to report that they are a bit of a ****** to get out - and in. After turning the air blue I eventually had to google it. Turns out there's a very awkward allen bolt for a clamp that is tight between the battery and engine bulkhead. I only had the allen key set for my push bike and could only get a tiny bit turn at a time with pliers. A very long ball ended key would make the job a lot easier because, as well as being almost totally inaccessible it's also at an angle! Ended up sitting on top of the engine block wrestling it out.

If you get the option of free fitting, jump at it :)

Also, there's no spare room in mine, battery needs to be exactly the same size.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Luckily I had a little view as to how this is done as last year my car broke down due to altenrator failure. The very knowledgeable RAC man took the battery out and put his big F*ck off Varta hi Capacity battery in!

My garage (ex Audi Master Tech) said he will do this for me :)

Will let you know how it goes.
 
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VagPro said:
Hello All,

I tried closing the hood one day and it did not want to budge. After closing it manually and a bit of trouble shooting I found it was the electric motor which drives the hydraulic pump which was faulty.

Symptoms: Roof unlatches but does not open, storage compartment unlatches but does not close, no noise from hydraulic unit (in RHS in boot), unit starts working after a few light taps with a soft mallet.

All the above can be due to poor conduction between the motor commutator and motor brushes.
The cause of this is that the brushes get stuck in the brush carriers and do not make good contact with the communicator, this in turn leads to arcing and poor contact. The issue is resolved by cleaning the commutator and prevented by prying open the brush carriers (gently) to allow the brushes to move freely again.


Here is what I did to get my motor working again :) (As you would expect please do so at your own risk I accept no responsibility)


So I started off by removing the boot rubber channel then the rear cross panel trim,

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ving and installing rear cross panel trim.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ving and installing rear cross panel trim.pdf
Picture 034.jpg


Removing the right side trim

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ing and installing side trim (right-side).pdf

but before this panel can be removed the hinge for the hood storage compartment has to be removed, be careful not to drop the washer between the hinge and the bodywork

Picture 030.jpg


Unclip at the back

Picture 027.jpg


The trim should then slide out towards the rear of the car (slide past the hood storage compartment)

Picture 026.jpg


You should then be somewhere here, then remove the wiring plug to the 12v power socket and the boot light

Picture 023.jpg


Once this panel is removed, remove the three bolts holding the amplifier

Picture 019.jpg


Move the amplifier to the side for easy access to the hydraulic pump

Picture 015.jpg


You should now have access to the hydraulic pump, proceed to removing the three nuts holding the pump down

Picture 013.jpg


Now before you let loose at dismantling the motor housing do something I did not do (and learnt the hard way), MARK the position of the motor casing with a black marker
Picture 020.jpg



Unclip the relays from the relay carrier

Picture 010.jpg



Now you are ready to remove the motor cover, open the 7mm bolts (make sure you have marked the position of the housing)

Picture 009.jpg


Pull the housing, bear in mind that the magnets will provide some resistance


Picture 007.jpg


So now you can see the problem, dirty commutator

Picture 002.jpg


So I got some 800 wet and dry paper, held it in place with a screw driver and turned the motor by hand until it cleaned up

Picture 003.jpg


Once the surface is clean, use a stanley blade to clean any debris in the slots on the commutator
Picture 004.jpg



And there you have it, a nice clean commutator

Picture 006.jpg


Reassemble with a touch of grease on the end bearing not forgetting to line up the markings you did earlier and you should be all sorted !!
The next step is to stop the problem reoccurring by prying open the brush carriers, insert a small screwdriver between the small slot in the brush carriers and gently pry them open, then pull the brushes back and confirm they spring back freely towards the commutator. See picture below


View attachment 14986

I have attached some other files which I pulled of Elsa on A4 Cabriolet roofs, these are below:

General Information on Hydraulic System

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...r/General Information on hydraulic system.pdf

Exploded View of Convertible Top

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Exploded View of Convertible Top.pdf

Exploded View of Hydraulic System

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/exploded view of hydraulic system.pdf

Block Diagram of Hydraulic System (This is in case you want to know how it really works !!)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Block diagram of hydraulic system.pdf

Wiring Diagrams for Electric Hood

2003 Onwards

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2003 on.pdf

2005 Onwards

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2005 on.pdf

Good luck ! In case of any queries, or if you would like any more information of the workshop manual drop me an email

khurrumsattar@hotmail.com
facebook.com\VProUK
I have recently had a number of emails and requests for other roof related issues and for carrying out the procedure above. Although I work full time as an Engineer I can assist for a small fee (to cover my time). So please do not hesitate to contact me !!
Click to expand...


Could I get access to your PDFs on dropbox...

Exact problem has occurred .....just tried opening the roof and it stops after an inch or 2.
i assume because i have not used the soft-top for a couple of months in the cold weather....
Many thanks
Jon
 
technics100 said:
I having been having issues with my 2004 B6 cab roof.. It has stopped working a few times since owning (about a month) I bought it and it wasn't working, so I cleared the 02000 - Switch Position: Implausible Signal error and it worked fine for approx 10 times, then stopped again this time trying to lift the boot cover. roof put back down, error cleared and away it goes again for a number of goes, it then stops again.. clear the code and it's away.. I did it again last night, cycled the roof 4-5 times and it's fine.. looked at various measuring blocks, but obviously I'm not seeing much as it's working fine.. can I look at the measuring blocks when it stops again?

Also is there a handheld code reader that I could keep in the car and clear the code when it happens out and about (section 25 auto roof in VCDS)

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi,

Is your issue sorted?
 
larry barns said:
evening guys ive a lump on my head that hurts from banging my head on the wall lol.....i have a 2004 audi a4 convertable with you guess with a roof that doesnt work ive had it set manually twice the roof light in yellow flashes all the time, ive plugged it into a snap on solus and came up with codes 02000 switch position not a plausible signal
0046control module for steering colum elecs j527 no signal no comms
00830 ecu for cabrio top operation j256 no comunication intermitant
also when i unlock car by key i turn clock wise the turn back then clockwise again within 2 seconds which should drop all windows and work roof ....
but it doesnt
now when i press roof switch nothing happens and it doesnt even unlock the latches now at dead end guessing i need to replace module behind rear door card or poss convienience ecu pls can some one with more knolwedge than me help pls
Click to expand...
Hello

Is your issue resolved?
 
Tony in Hawaii said:
So obviously I am posting as I am having problems with my Cabriolet.

Details on the car, 2005 S4 Cabriolet. about 72,500 miles, bought used from Craigslist about 4 months ago. Overall no problems with car other than normal routine maintenance for an 11 year old car (and I think the Syncro's for 3rd gear are bad). But that changed the other day when the top decided not to open. Like everyone else, I have the flashing yellow roof light (blinks 10 times). I hooked it up to VCDS-lite and pulled the following codes...

2 Faults Found:
01996 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F294); Open
008 - Implausible Signal
01995 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F295); Closed
008 - Implausible Signal

I took to Audi and they confirmed that the Top Latch Assembly needed replacement for a mere $1,600.00. Per Audi they performed test and watched measuring values while operating latches and found signal does not change. They removed the Conv Top Latch Assembly and inspected harness found to be ok.

So I brought car home and pulled the Conv Top Latch Assembly and tested the micro switches with a multi-meter and found them to be ok. You can clearly hear them engage and the micro switches have continuity when hooked up and loses when the switch is open.

So I hooked the car back up to VCDS and when I tested the system and watched measuring values, I found the signal did change. I have the log and it shows the the switches operating in field 2 of the measuring block both F294 and F295. Cleared codes and tried to open again and it pulled the same codes each time I try to open.

The Conv Top Latch does nothing...it doesn't move at all. I think you can feel the motor try to move but not sure 100%.

I am trying to sort out the problem as the Conv Top Latch Assembly is not a cheap part I have read the forums (about everything out there) but have not heard one story about the latch assembly being bad. I am willing and able to purchase the $320+ part and install it but only if I really need to. I am hoping that it is a simple fix like the hydraulic motor or some of the other fixes and could use some advice.

On a separate note, I am going to do the hydraulic motor repair again this week (though I did hear the motor work) as I think when I cleaned the motor, I may have but the bell housing on backwards. If I manually unlatch the Conv Top Latch and lift it up slightly and then try to use the switch to open the top, it actually pushes the Conv Top down into the windscreen.

Any help is appreciated as it sucks living in Hawaii, driving a cabriolet and not being able to enjoy it.

Thanks
Tony
Click to expand...

Hello,

is your issue resolved?
 
Having done this procedure a couple of years ago, looks like I'll be repeating it (hopefully this will fix it again!)
Once again, many thanks for this excellent write up thats saved people thoasands of pounds!
 
VagPro said:
Hi,

Is your issue sorted?
Click to expand...

It hasn't done it again.. each time I wash it I put the roof up and down to check.. but it seems fine.. Could it be a sticky switch? Is there anyway I can check? or log with vag-com can I clean all the switches to be sure? or anything else you would recommend?
 
Hi, i have 2006 A4 1.8t and the roof is not working at all, when i press the button to open or close nothing happens. The rear windows are not moving, the roof stays lock on front windshield, the power is coming to relays which are located on hydraulic motor.
The light on dashboard is on for 30 sec as soon as i start the car.
I would appreciate any help.
Best Regards
 
Once again, since 2013 when I brought the car I'm back at it again, to me now it's like a regular 2 year motor service, first happened in 2015 and now again 2017, dirty communicators, but works fine every time I give it a good clean, when it happened this time I was out and about shopping and couldn't close the roof, so I gave the side of the car where the motor lives a good bang and 'voila' it worked, so I knew what I had do too..car goes next year I think, I'll just give it another clean I think before I sell..
So yea, just thought I'd say thanks again for this fabulous write up..money well saved.. I've taken on 3 common problems (breather hose, water flange and this roof motor) with this Audi and this forum has come up trumps every time... Thanks heaps
 

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Here's another one to add to the pile.

Apologies if there is anything similar in the thread, but I honestly got sore eyes after reading the first 7 pages. Took me ages too.

So, here we go.
57plate, 80k on clock. Nice day out, first one in months, so decide to drop the roof. Push the button, windows wind down fully, not half way like they should.
Aaaaannd, nothing. ****** all.
Catches don't release the roof from the windscreen at all. No noise from the motor, Zero warning lights. Just a confused me getting increasingly ****** off every time only the windows work.

Did the manual reset, with ignition off and on, but still nothing.

Any advice at all would be greatly welcomed before I take it to a dealer.
 
Another A4 in need of help please.
56 plate 3.0D S Line Quattro.
Roof only opens a few inches and stops
Had a new motor fitted by my brother just over a year ago before I had the car off him (recon from roofmotors)
No fault codes now (was a plausi fault, but cleared after opened / closing manually a few times).

Stripped and checked the motor, only slight colour on the comm but cleaned, and loosen a sticking brush.
I spilt some oil while removing motor - forgot to turn on side,
could it be air in the system, I have opened the torx on top of the reservoir a little and oil does come out,
if there any other point to check / bleed the system ?

I cannot access any of the info in the front post, none of the links work, and am now a little stuck !

Also notice the volts at the motor are -12.5v - is that correct ?

Many thanks,

Paul.
 
If you have voltage at the motor connector terminals, but no rotation from it when you are trying to operate the roof ( boot closed and movable compartment divider in correct position of course ) then its the pump motor. On the -12.5 V , polarity depends upon direction of movement of the roof.

Check those brushes again, its not unknown for new O.E. motors to have problems alot earlier than expected. Good luck !
 
Hi, I have a 04 Cab with 80k on it. I have replaced the top motor, replaced the computer component in the window well, replaced the top switch at the center console, replaced the top position sensor micro switch, reset the top numours time, have a brand new battery and have no dash/Vag codes outstanding. The issues is the top will raise at the front a few inches. The rear portion of the roof does not fold upwards and the rear deck lid will not pop open. If I manually raise the deck lid/storage for top, then hit the switch the top will lower itself in. If I attempt to raise the top, I have to manually open the storage lid, the top will then lift out but when the rear portion of the top should fold up for the lid to close, it doesn't, nor does the lid that was manually opened attempt to move to the close position. Is there a separate motor that opens and raises the storage lid? Appreciate any feedback.
 

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Hello, this happens to my roof occasionally (2007). As mentioned above the problem is that the motor brushes get stuck. When they are freed up the roof will be OK for a few months then will get stuck again. Last time I added some extra lubrication (WD40), roof is still working after about 4 months but I expect it will get stack again soon.
I remember seeing a link to a company that would overhaul the motor but I can't find it again so if anyone knows then it would be great if you could share it. A new motor is about £300 and I don't want to go there!
Cheers

Ray
 
The OP offers an upgraded brush set, I had it done over a year ago and - tempting fate now - no issues since. Suggest getting in touch with Vagpro, I'm sure he'll sort you out.
 
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Dino1309 said:
Hi, i have 2006 A4 1.8t and the roof is not working at all, when i press the button to open or close nothing happens. The rear windows are not moving, the roof stays lock on front windshield, the power is coming to relays which are located on hydraulic motor.
The light on dashboard is on for 30 sec as soon as i start the car.
I would appreciate any help.
Best Regards
Click to expand...

Flashing light is an indication of a code, you would need to get the codes checked in the controller and look at the live data
 
LostUlsterman said:
Here's another one to add to the pile.

Apologies if there is anything similar in the thread, but I honestly got sore eyes after reading the first 7 pages. Took me ages too.

So, here we go.
57plate, 80k on clock. Nice day out, first one in months, so decide to drop the roof. Push the button, windows wind down fully, not half way like they should.
Aaaaannd, nothing. ****** all.
Catches don't release the roof from the windscreen at all. No noise from the motor, Zero warning lights. Just a confused me getting increasingly ****** off every time only the windows work.

Did the manual reset, with ignition off and on, but still nothing.

Any advice at all would be greatly welcomed before I take it to a dealer.
Click to expand...
Apologies for the delay, first point of call would be a full VCDS scan to see, may be the controller that is down...
 
paul_S said:
Another A4 in need of help please.
56 plate 3.0D S Line Quattro.
Roof only opens a few inches and stops
Had a new motor fitted by my brother just over a year ago before I had the car off him (recon from roofmotors)
No fault codes now (was a plausi fault, but cleared after opened / closing manually a few times).

Stripped and checked the motor, only slight colour on the comm but cleaned, and loosen a sticking brush.
I spilt some oil while removing motor - forgot to turn on side,
could it be air in the system, I have opened the torx on top of the reservoir a little and oil does come out,
if there any other point to check / bleed the system ?

I cannot access any of the info in the front post, none of the links work, and am now a little stuck !

Also notice the volts at the motor are -12.5v - is that correct ?

Many thanks,

Paul.
Click to expand...
Apologies for the delay

Have you bench tested the motor? I have had a number of their motors come to me for refurb as they just "repair" and dont replace the brushes...

Failing that its a micro-switch, would need live data to know which one
 
Dricc said:
Hi, I have a 04 Cab with 80k on it. I have replaced the top motor, replaced the computer component in the window well, replaced the top switch at the center console, replaced the top position sensor micro switch, reset the top numours time, have a brand new battery and have no dash/Vag codes outstanding. The issues is the top will raise at the front a few inches. The rear portion of the roof does not fold upwards and the rear deck lid will not pop open. If I manually raise the deck lid/storage for top, then hit the switch the top will lower itself in. If I attempt to raise the top, I have to manually open the storage lid, the top will then lift out but when the rear portion of the top should fold up for the lid to close, it doesn't, nor does the lid that was manually opened attempt to move to the close position. Is there a separate motor that opens and raises the storage lid? Appreciate any feedback.
Click to expand...
Sounds like youve already spent a bit of money, what was the driver to change all these parts?

Need to look at the live data to see whats happening using VCDS, where are you based?

Contact me through my site...
 
traydaht said:
Hello, this happens to my roof occasionally (2007). As mentioned above the problem is that the motor brushes get stuck. When they are freed up the roof will be OK for a few months then will get stuck again. Last time I added some extra lubrication (WD40), roof is still working after about 4 months but I expect it will get stack again soon.
I remember seeing a link to a company that would overhaul the motor but I can't find it again so if anyone knows then it would be great if you could share it. A new motor is about £300 and I don't want to go there!
Cheers

Ray
Click to expand...
I sell a brush kit on ebay, or offer a recon service.

In my opinion stay away from WD40, the brushes crack and swell, inevitable that they will not get stuck....
 
VagPro said:
Apologies for the delay

Have you bench tested the motor? I have had a number of their motors come to me for refurb as they just "repair" and dont replace the brushes...

Failing that its a micro-switch, would need live data to know which one
Click to expand...

All sorted with a visit to Khurrum and another new motor.
If anyone thinks of using other recon motors, think again !
Thank you.
 
hi..ive cleaned the motor but am having trouble putting the sleave back on as the magnets are so strong, i cant get it to centre..any help please
 
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