W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%
  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%

  • Total voters
    75
I thought your cooler was completely uncovered Dave.
 
I will give you some tube to go with the brackets then you can drop it as low as you want, so the bolt will go through the bracket, inside the tube, and bolt to you IC...
 
Ok my fmic reducers arrived today and now fit perfectly. I also popped out and got 2 M8 100mm bolts to hang the cooler from the crash bar brackets.

I popped into quick fit and got the tyres off my 17" Avus wheels in preparation to start the refurb on them. I have now decided on a colour for them :eyebrows:
 

wheels112.jpg


I love the colour and not seen another A3/S3 running them this colour. I was a bit unsure about the green with the dark blue body work but I saw a BMW in one of my mates car mags and it was dark blue with green wheels and it seemed to work. They're only for the track so I though, why not?
 
Sure they'll look great on the car mate, you'll have to roll one up alongside it for us to get a better look
 
I thought that you were a bit quick after only getting them back today, in that case I hope they are from an S4, or you're not going to be the only car with those colored bad boys!!

You should go Kawasaki Green, that's the best green there is..
 
Bright red like on porsches, would look mental.
 
halfords paint is proper ****ty quality, with a very low percentage of colour in it.

even when applied properly it's really soft, and chips off SO easily.

get proper paint and do it properly man, When i got my porsche 8C6 orange mixed up it only cost £12 per can from a proper paint shop, in clear over base
 
erm, I think the whole job, including prep gear (sand paper, panel wipe) cost me £50

That was 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of orange colour, and one can of laquer.

took a whole day start to finish, to prep all 4 wheels, mask, prime, paint, and laquer. 8am-6pm
 
Ha, from a local custom paint place, literally whatwver you want, and a litre did the wheels with some left over for centre caps and touch up paint. I did 3 coats of primer on each wheel, rubbing them down smooth between each coat.
one word of advise though , don't use a sandpaper that's too coarse when stripping the original colour, I used one that got the paint off quick, but has left marks under the paint
 
I am hugely torn now between 2 different colours for my 17" Avus. My mate keeps saying Kawasaki green but I do like Guards red but he thinks they wont look so good with red calipers!

I am now thinking about doing my calipers in black and then either green or red wheels will look good.

So guys.......... RED or GREEN???
 
Halfrauds don't stock any decent greens I think you have to get many made, I know a guy that works for them he says it's best to get a can mixed as you get 100ml paint 200ml thinners whereas the premixed cans are less apparently,

Are the wheels peeling?
 
Halfrauds don't stock any decent greens I think you have to get many made, I know a guy that works for them he says it's best to get a can mixed as you get 100ml paint 200ml thinners whereas the premixed cans are less apparently,

Are the wheels peeling?

The wheels are curbed and have a fair bit of corrosion which is causing some flaking. I'll be stripping them back to alloy then filling, smoothing and primering like a nutter before doing the green.
 
Anybody know anything about mixing paint & paint codes?

I've found the following info for Kawasaki green:

Paint code 617

Kawasaki Lime Green*.....................0Z..48..96
Thalo Green...0...24...0
yellow Oxid....0...16...1
Perm yellow...1...34...1
White............0...20...1

Does any of this mean anything to anyone in the know?
 
3. Auto Paint Mixing

Question: I don't understand the thinning out recommendations on paint products, can you give me a simple form for etch, clear and base coats for 500mls?
Answer: Thinning for different types of paint products requires different amounts. The general rule of thumb with solvent based paint products is as follows:

1. Etch Primer = 1:1 ratio (1 part paint to 1 part thinner or reducer)
2. Primer = 2:1:1 ratio (2 parts paint to 1 part hardener & 1 part thinner, reducer)
3. Base Coat = 1:1 ratio (1 part paint to 1 part reducer)
4. Clear coat = 2:1:10% OR 4:1 ratio (2 parts paint to 1 part hardener and then add 10% of reducer).

Please note: These are fairly generic ratios. As a customer, you should ask the paint supplier for a technical data sheet for all the types of paint being used, as they carry all of the information required to use these materials i.e. pressure/temp/air-cap/nozzle size, etc.
This is much more easier than you think to do, rather than readining about it.


Question: We are doing our first paint job on a small project. For the primer (Tintable Polyurethane) we bought the tint.

They said 5-1 including the tint. Now what do they mean 5-1? The paint gun is gravity feed nothing fancy so how do we mix the correct amount?

Also the Paint (Low VOC Polyurethane Enamel) they said that it is a 3-1 of Acetone and Catalyst, how will we mix that?
Answer: Firstly, the ratios to which you mix any paint are relative. i.e if the ratio is 5:1, then this indicates 5 parts of paint to 1 part of hardener/thinner/catalyst. So in broad terms the ratio should always be the same.
For example:
green-checkmark.png
If you were to mix 5 liters of paint, then you would add 1 liter of hardener/thinner/catalyst.
green-checkmark.png
If you were to mix 2.5 liters of paint, then you would add 0.50 liters of hardener/thinner/catalyst.

The same rule applies for a ratio of 3:1 - 3 parts paint to 1 part hardener/thinner/catalyst. So to mix 3 liters of paint, you would add 1 liter of hardener/thinner/catalyst.

As for the amount you would mix to do a particular job, well that depends on the size of the individual panels. Rule of thumb usually indicates that 1/5th (20%) of a liter per panel.

This would allow for 2 to 3 quality coats per panel. The larger the panel, then more will be required.


Question: How do you mix the base coat and the clear coat? Also, I wanted to put flake into it. What is the best way to do that?
Answer: Dependent on the manufacturer and make of paint, generally speaking, base coat is mixed 1:1 Which means 1 parts paint : 1 part reducer should be applied.
 
dont understand why there is 3 numbers i normaly use two ie thinners and paint also is the paint water based or 2pac?
 
Halfords do custom mixes. Or at least they used to when I worked there (some 5/6 years ago now).
 
local body shop ftw halfrauds do s**t paint used there mixed stuff before and it chipped away very easy with 3 coats of laquer ontop.

body shop will be able mix what you want you could give them the paint code and ask them to add extra in if you want westy so pearl in the green would look good would make it a 2 stage paint last longer as there is two layers to get through to get to the base (3 if including laquer)
 

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