1.8TQS MAF upgrade

[EricTQS7]

Hi everyone, got a 2000 TQS for a couple of years and my MAF just gone bad so im looking at replacing it and since i have plans to bring this car to around 300bhp im thinking i could use the upgraded maf and it seems that the one from a VR6 is recommended? Could someone give me the part number is it the mk3 Golf VR6 maf that i want?

Also at the same time ill be replacing the maf i want to switch from a panel to open cone filter, i want to stay at paper filter tho so id want to use the one from the S2000 which is huge and makes great noise while its still a paper filter so should filter the air well. Question is, can i use it with the VR6 maf? I'll have more questions as time will go, for now ill be focusing on handling upgrades, thinking of B8 shocks with Eibach pro kit, id want around 40mm drop at the same time as the car sits way too high for my liking.

 

[Bradderz_1988]

You can’t just go and fit a VR6 MAF you need to also swap out the 4 bar FPR for the 3 bar one used in the golfs/A3’s etc and switch out the injectors for some saab red tops (380cc) ones. And then you will also need to run the motor with the N75 disconnected, but you probably wont see much increase in performanceat this point as you will be running it solely on wastegate actuator pressure which is about 6psi or so. Id just swap out the maf for a New one and just aquire a used VR6 MAF to swap your actual sensor into the VR6’s housing, when the motor is ready for supporting mods ie turbo, injectors etc etc. Also 300hp will require new forged conrods, 270hp/270ftlb is around the limit of the AJL rods.

As regards to the S2000 filter there’s not much leg room to fit one in there unless you ditch the A/C system so the drier is no longer there and route it down into behind the drivers side bumper.

 

[EricTQS7]

You can’t just go and fit a VR6 MAF you need to also swap out the 4 bar FPR for the 3 bar one used in the golfs/A3’s etc and switch out the injectors for some saab red tops (380cc) ones. And then you will also need to run the motor with the N75 disconnected, but you probably wont see much increase in performanceat this point as you will be running it solely on wastegate actuator pressure which is about 6psi or so. Id just swap out the maf for a New one and just aquire a used VR6 MAF to swap your actual sensor into the VR6’s housing, when the motor is ready for supporting mods ie turbo, injectors etc etc. Also 300hp will require new forged conrods, 270hp/270ftlb is around the limit of the AJL rods.

As regards to the S2000 filter there’s not much leg room to fit one in there unless you ditch the A/C system so the drier is no longer there and route it down into behind the drivers side bumper.

Thanks for the reply mate. I wasnt hoping for any gains with the VR6 maf just yet, i just figured why buy the stock one now when in a few months id be buying the VR6 one, but if i cant run the VR6 maf without any other mods then obviously ill just get a used TQS one for now. I know ill have to forge the engine, any recommendations on rods that wont cost a fortune and still be up to the job comfortably?

I figured the S2000 filter wont fit after i posted the thread as i had a look on youtube and seen how tight the space will be after deleting the panel filter housing. Will get a smaller one as i wont delete the A/C. You know the two connectors that are on top of the panel filter housing? What are they for and where will i plug them in when i delete the box? There are 3 connections one for the maf obviously and then two that are opposite each other, what are they for? Cheers

 

[Bradderz_1988]

Thanks for the reply mate. I wasnt hoping for any gains with the VR6 maf just yet, i just figured why buy the stock one now when in a few months id be buying the VR6 one, but if i cant run the VR6 maf without any other mods then obviously ill just get a used TQS one for now. I know ill have to forge the engine, any recommendations on rods that wont cost a fortune and still be up to the job comfortably?

I figured the S2000 filter wont fit after i posted the thread as i had a look on youtube and seen how tight the space will be after deleting the panel filter housing. Will get a smaller one as i wont delete the A/C. You know the two connectors that are on top of the panel filter housing? What are they for and where will i plug them in when i delete the box? There are 3 connections one for the maf obviously and then two that are opposite each other, what are they for? Cheers

Dont skimp on the rods either Intergrated engineering rifle drilled or CP Carillo rods or speak to badger5 see what they recommend ive been away from the B5 stuff for sometime and more onto the B7 stuff these days.

The 2 connectors on the airbox are for the ICM (Ignition control module) if you upgrade to TFSI ignition coils you can delete the ICM this involves some wiring work using the MK4 Golf/A3 1.8T coil harness repair kit.

 

[EricTQS7]

Dont skimp on the rods either Intergrated engineering rifle drilled or CP Carillo rods or speak to badger5 see what they recommend ive been away from the B5 stuff for sometime and more onto the B7 stuff these days.

The 2 connectors on the airbox are for the ICM (Ignition control module) if you upgrade to TFSI ignition coils you can delete the ICM this involves some wiring work using the MK4 Golf/A3 1.8T coil harness repair kit.

Will have a look at those rods so i know howmuch to save up.

I tried to clean the maf sensor today with a maf cleaner, sprayed it let it dry for about an hour reinstalled it and the engine is running fine again but when i accelerate and then come to a stop the revs go down to like 500rpm and it feels like it'll stall, it was doing this even with the maf disconnected so not sure if its the maf or not? I scanned the ecu and i got the coolant temp sensor code come up and battery voltage too low, ive got a brand new battery Bosh tho. Could it be the maf or the coolant temp sensor?