1.8 TQS project now driving

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Chrisp_1

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Hello folks, bought my TQS from a friend last year, so far its had:
- full Mehle suspension arm kit.
- new suspension springs (Eibach Pro kit).
- new bushes on rear suspension arms that aren't available in above Mehle kit.
- new cambelt and water pump.
- full service oil, sparks, gearbox and diff oil.
- dash pod repair due to pixelation.
- air intake system totally replaced with new MAF.
- a few vacuum hoses and purge valve for fuel pressure.
- various bits of external trim that was damaged or missing including arch liner connectors, undertray and bottom door trim strips.

I put new MOT on Monday this week and have a couple hundred miles under my belt but still got loads to do. The suspension set-up has done the trick rides like new but does need a tweak to centre the wheel perfect.

Next up is new thermostat which i overlooked previously but is now demonstrably sticking open, I'm a bit cold on the run to work lol. Booked onto the ramp Monday next.

Also needs a clean before pics.

I'm now thinking of doing the clutch as pretty much all other consumables complete and I want it mechanically sorted before any further cosmetics - anyone care to chip in some advice on kits and costs inc. labour?

Cheers
Chris
 
Hi mate sound nice I am currently modifying a avant 1.8t get some pics up bud
 
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To be honest the standard item is pretty robust. Mine saw me sail past 180,000 miles and it was the flywheel that failed rather than the clutch. I got the car on about 80,000 and chipped it straight away to 190bhp. It ran like this until about 160,000 miles where I then gave it an extra 50bhp. All was fine until the flywheel grenaded on the track. It now has a TTV solid flywheel and S4 clutch in prep for more power.
 
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Oranoco said:
To be honest the standard item is pretty robust. Mine saw me sail past 180,000 miles and it was the flywheel that failed rather than the clutch. I got the car on about 80,000 and chipped it straight away to 190bhp. It ran like this until about 160,000 miles where I then gave it an extra 50bhp. All was fine until the flywheel grenaded on the track. It now has a TTV solid flywheel and S4 clutch in prep for more power.
Click to expand...
I like the sound of 240bhp mate
 
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whats the benefit of solid flywheel v dual mass?

Reason I'm thinking is biting point is high, no slip but don't want it to go half way down motorway unexpectedly. I do predominantly long journeys.

Clutch kits are. £170 for Sachs on ECP.
Fly is £500!!!
Any other outlets I should consider?

PS. 240 bhp would be fun in the Quattro.
 
That’s the way it goes but it’s an Audi, it’s worth it.
A LUK dual mass flywheel alone would cost that so if you think of it that way, you’re saving money. You could always leave it as is for now as it’s not slipping, generally Audi pedals are high anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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it didn't give my AJL engine code on that link. might have to ring them as its a good saving as you say. I need to shop around clearly.
 
I never checked properly that seems to be for Diesel engines as 5 speed clutch is 228mm and 6 speed is 240mm.


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QuattroCalum said:
As far as I’m aware B5 and B6 are the same.


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Click to expand...
dunno to be honest. Ebay keeps asking me to insert vehicle details everytime which is rather annoying when it says no.
 
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AUDI


A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 (1995-01 » 2000-11), mot.
ADR, APT, ARG, AVV, 92kW, 125HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 quattro (1995-01 »
2000-11), mot. ADR, APT, ARG, 92kW, 125HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T
(1995-01 » 2000-11), mot. AEB, ANB, APU, ARK, AWT, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T
(1997-12 » 2000-11), mot. AJL, 132kW, 180HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T quattro (1995-01 » 2000-11),
mot. AEB, ANB, APU, ARK, AWT, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T quattro (1997-12 » 2000-11),
mot. AJL, 132kW, 180HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8E2, B6) 1.8 T
(2000-11 » 2002-07), mot. AVJ, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm
 
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QuattroCalum said:
AUDI

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 (1995-01 » 2000-11), mot.
ADR, APT, ARG, AVV, 92kW, 125HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 quattro (1995-01 »
2000-11), mot. ADR, APT, ARG, 92kW, 125HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T
(1995-01 » 2000-11), mot. AEB, ANB, APU, ARK, AWT, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T
(1997-12 » 2000-11), mot. AJL, 132kW, 180HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T quattro (1995-01 » 2000-11),
mot. AEB, ANB, APU, ARK, AWT, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8D2, B5) 1.8 T quattro (1997-12 » 2000-11),
mot. AJL, 132kW, 180HP, 1781ccm

A4 (8E2, B6) 1.8 T
(2000-11 » 2002-07), mot. AVJ, 110kW, 150HP, 1781ccm
Click to expand...

thankyou. Much appreciated!!!
 
my local vw mechanic will be pleased. i hear its quite a big job. 6 hour.

Plus i have a rotational clunk from rear to investigate. comes and goes with acceleration/load and freewheel/breaking. Could be diff mount related, driveshaft, prop or diff. Not sure what we'll find once she in the air.
 
Chrisp_1 said:
my local vw mechanic will be pleased. i hear its quite a big job. 6 hour.

Plus i have a rotational clunk from rear to investigate. comes and goes with acceleration/load and freewheel/breaking. Could be diff mount related, driveshaft, prop or diff. Not sure what we'll find once she in the air.
Click to expand...

I did mine myself, sounds like the centre diff support bearing. You can change it but the driveshaft has to be split BUT it must be marked before separation or the balance will be lost.


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QuattroCalum said:
sounds like the centre diff support bearing. You can change it but the driveshaft has to be split BUT it must be marked before separation or the balance will be lost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'll have to show this to mechanic,.. I'm not sure exactly what you mean (you lost me basically). I need a diagram lol
 
thats made me hope its not the prop bearing :)
i will report back in the week. I shouldn't have sold the B7 so prematurely, didn't want 2 insurance policies running and i needed this on the road to pick-up the remaining faults.
 
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I've never done one but it really doesn't look difficult at all after watching that.
 
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haha i hate the heavy jobs as i don't have a great place to leave a car up in the air. Or the facility to get it high enough to be comfy. I prefer the fiddly stuff you do from above. And warm weather.
 
If it is the propshaft centre bearing it would be a job for the mechanic when he's doing the clutch change as the propshaft would be half off anyway.
 
yes my thoughts too. might be a good time to look at whole drivetrain from gearbox back. I'm considering picking up a cheap little runner for work whilst next phase is ongoing - there is a little fiat 500 up the road that runs on diesel vapours. It would save alot on fuel and make me look like a girl though.
 
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The clutch bite point on these cars is always high when they've got a bit of age behind them..., i wouldnt let that alone push you into doing a clutch change.
 
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aragorn said:
The clutch bite point on these cars is always high when they've got a bit of age behind them..., i wouldnt let that alone push you into doing a clutch change.
Click to expand...

I think Callum mentioned the same up top.
Thermostat and fuel filter just donefter first week on the road. This week its been the strunning or knocking from drive-train. Looks to be a driveshaft joint that suffered standing for two years. It comes and goes as the shaft settles in different positions mechanic thinks. We'll find out Friday. New joints ready if necessary.
 
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audi upgrades
So today it had a driveshaft strip and rebuild with new inner/outer joints. My mechanic is pretty cool, throttle body adaptation and fuel cleaner FOC, still need to iron out an occasional stutter that shows more often than not at 3k revs in 3rd. It might be remnants of crud in fuel lines between new fuel filter and injectors but not sure yet.
Good news is both mechanics rate the condition and say its a keeper. Gotta be £3k now £5k in 2 years, £10k in 5 years their opinion!
 
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