04 b6 aftermarket head unit

[fifer1981]

alright guys got a 2004 tdi. the single din standard head unit (concert) has been playing up so got a new aftermarket head unit coming.

decided eventualy to bite the bullet and go ipod

heres the head unit thats coming
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_504689_langId_-1_categoryId_165474

so now the technical stuff heres a small paint pic of the wires presently going in to the standard head unit

so from that pic am i correct in thinking i have the non bose set up but do have rear amplified speakers ? im just trying to figure out what wiring harness to buy ? and is there one that works with the can ( think thats what its called) system so i dont need to make a ignition switch wire so it turns on and off with a key ?

oh and any you guys recomend a facia adaptor for aftermarket head unit fitment or are they all just the same ?

thanks for reading this and helping me get this sorted

 

[bubstar]

Andy Mac's your man for that, have you posted (or searched) in the ICE section?

I'm sure the answer's there :thumbsup:

 

[AndyMac]

Yes, all Audi's have rear amplified speakers (& sub in your case). The Bose system is fully amped, the non Bose just rears & sub, the fronts run off the HU. So if you have the brown front speaker harness then you have the non Bose system.
No there aren't any CANBUS HU's available apart from stock Audi ones, so you'll either have to turn the HU on/off manually or wire in an ignition on feed.
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=36965&highlight=ignition
This is the best fascia adapter IMO:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/audi-facia-adaptor-p-662.html

You'll also need an antenna amp adapter:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/aerial-adaptor-p-211.html

And I'd recommend rewiring the rears directly to the HU otherwise you'll find they are very quiet compared to the fronts. Then use the RCA input adapter purely for the sub.

 

[aragorn]

on my B5 there is a bolt labelled "75X" in the central electrics panel that acts as an ignition live.

I took a feed from that, and connected it to a relay, which i used to split the original stereo wiring permanent live into a switched live and a permanent; The relay just sits behind the head unit.

Also my B5 didnt have amped rears, they were just powered off the head unit, but in your case you'll need to run some cables from the front to the rear to run the speakers off the head unit, or you could always install an upgraded amp to drive the rears.

My setup uses the stock audi speakers front and rear, with a pioneer head unit, and a sub installed in a fibreglass enclosure in the boot.

Take a look here: http://lr90.org/Audi/stereo for some pics of the sub!

 

[AndyMac]

75X won't give you a proper ignition on though, i.e. it'll turn the radio off with the engine rather than keeping it on until you pull the keys out.

 

[fifer1981]

where do i find this 75x bolt ?

 

[AndyMac]

Under the steering column, to the right, where all the extra relays are

 

[fifer1981]

could you expain how to make a switched live using a relay ? i dont have the slightest but a pic or the likes should be enough for me to catch on to how to make it ? or any way of making some thing that feeds off the permenant live that makes it non live untill the can wire wire power switches it to connect the permanent live

is the thing at the bottom any good ?http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting_kits.htm

 

[ScottyP45]

Perm live B+ o--------------o /o-------------------o Switched Live

These are the N/O (normally open) contacts of any relay, simply supply the relay's coil contacts with a switched ignition live from anywhere and a ground, as its just powering the relay, then the relay switches your beefier permanent live through from the common terminal to the N/O one, when the ignition is on, or when the last stage ignition is still on before the key is pulled if you used that live to run the relay.

You still need to fuse the relay N/C feed (permanent) wire appropriately, to protect the wiring from short circuit or overload. If you also added a small properly sized fuse for the relay coil current, that would protect the circuit you stole the switched feed from against coil failure and only that fuse should blow, thats called "discrimination", and prevents small faults from blowing fuses upstream and causing bigger faults.

Say you connect your stereo straight to a fat live you find, and its actually the main ignition feed, and you dont fuse the wire you tap off, then the stereo gets a fault and pops the 30A main ignition fuse in the box after melting the wiring, the car cuts out......you find fried wiring between the stereo and the main fusebox, lengthy fix, stranded etc etc....compared to having say a 3 amp fuse protecting the wire tap - which now blows instead, the stereo goes off, you raise an eyebrow and continue driving home, promising yourself youll fix that tomorrow....

Hope that helps mate. Inline fuse holders are cheap from halfrauds. Relays - Just find the N/O and or COM terminals, those are your "switch" and the coil + and - pins are the coil supply to operate the relay. They draw some current themselves as does their load, so just make sure you dont overload what you connect it to. The fuse rating is to protect the wire, but they take time to blow, and if oversized will take forever and the wiring melts instead, so just add a properly rated fuse where you tap off and you are good to go.

 

[AndyMac]

As already said:
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=36965&highlight=ignition

 

[aragorn]

yer either way will work, I went with the 75x as i didnt want to start hacking the loom.

As for the relay, I used an old vauxhall 4pin fuel pump relay i had laying around, connected its b+ feed to the live at the back of the head unit, the fuel pump output wire to the switched live on the head unit, the original ECU trigger was ground, with relay coil recieving a ignition live from the ignition, so i permenantly connected the ecu trigger to ground and the coil input to the 75X

Relay pins are usually numbered by an ISO standard (i might be wrong, and theres usually a diagram on the relay to tally it up):

30 B+
87 Switched out (Connected to B+ when coil is energised)
85 Coil +
86 Coil Ground

In this case you want to connect the original stereo live to 30, your switched feed to the stereo from pin 87, the signal wire from either 75x or the ignition barrel to 85, and ground to 86.

Some relays have a pin marked 87a which is connected to 30 with the coil off, you do not want one of these.

 

[AndyMac]

is the thing at the bottom any good ?http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting_kits.htm

Yes any of those will work, but only on/off with the engine. For keys out switch off you need to tap the skinny red wire under the steering wheel as per the link above and use that to trigger a relay detailed above in aragons post.