02M Build


Badger 5 Edition
VCDS Map User
Some info I managed to borrow from the r32 forums..

Standard R32 Gearbox
1st - 31mph
2nd - 51mph
3rd - 72mph
4th - 96mph
5th - 123mph
6th - 147mph

DRP VR6 Gearbox
1st - 30mph
2nd - 49mph
3rd - 72mph
4th - 95mph
5th - 122mph
6th - 144mph

Diesel box ratios...

EFF (Most commonly used) Gearbox
1st - 35mph
2nd - 64mph
3rd - 100mph
4th - 138mph
5th - 170mph
6th - 204mph

DRW (Longest geared) Gearbox
1st - 36mph
2nd - 66mph
3rd - 103mph
4th - 143mph
5th - 177mph
6th - 213mph

Figures calculated on 7000rpm and do have a small margin of error, obviously the standard engine power could not achieve those speeds but thats max on gear ratios, so what do you think, to long?

There are mentions of the ERR box but tbh all these boxes are confusing the hell out of me. Not sure which one is strong and which isn't!


Registered User
Power level not the issue

Audi themselves use diesel ratio's with the 180hp TT's

(02M DXW 5SPD: 1st 42:11 = 3.818; 2nd 40:19 = 2.105; 3rd 39:29 = 1.345; 4th 35:36 = 0.972; 5th 32:33 = 0.970; (6SPD DWX 6th 29:26 = 0.806))

Its what works best with a given engine for a given style/nature of driving at the end of the day


Registered User
I signed up for this forum as I seem to be the only person in the US looking to build a MK6 GTI 02Q 6-speed transmission the same way. I already have a Peloquin Limited Slip Differential installed with 1-2 and 3-4 steel shift forks. I'm looking at cracking the case again to install the 6th gear steel shift fork, 4th gear selector shaft brace and gearbox brace from Darkside Developments pictured above. I'll try to see if I can fill the 4th gear selector shaft as well to solidify it. A.L.D. has been very helpful over Facebook when I sent them a bunch of questions about their build. Guess we will both see if our 02M and 02Q transmissions will hold over 500bhp.


Registered User
In my opinion and the opinion of most others in main land Europe, the end bracing plate being suggested in this thread isn't worth the hassle with how thin and flimsy it is, if you just take a look at what adt, monster, frt etc run its about 10 times thicker and supports the whole end of the box.


Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
Someone i know is running 750+bhp though his box and its been fine and its standard box

Im sure most people on this forum will be fine with the mods been done

Monster performance say 800 foot pounds is when the case will crack..

As you imply,it's torque that kils the 'box and not bhp.

Certainly a few people over the years have found cracks developing around the bearing holders at torque levels well below 800lbs,but you might expect that repeated loadings to a lower level may result in the housing giving way,whereas a single loading to 800lbs would do the same job in one go.

The best I can say( and I think tufty and Goubo would be able to bear this out) is that a daily 540lbs is fine but on a car that is neither drag raced or launched.


Yeh the way in which that torque is applied plays a bit part. Which comes down to driving style, clutch and flywheel type/characteristics, I think


Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
And have you seen monster performance S3 launch.. ( more that 800ft/lbs)

800ft/lbs and hard launches will kill a box easy.

Not one of those for sure,but loads of rallycross and other cars doing that over the years.

I think if you can program the way the torque is fed in,and the amount of wheelspin permitted then you could probably protect the box better,but that requires aftermarket ECUs.
SYvecs can program LC strategies,torque ramp-in on launch,and different TC/slip levels,but that's likely to be the sort of thing people like that would use anyway.


Registered User
Adding some info here as I go along.

"rebuild" of 02M quattro gearbox (not the later type with the plastic cap on the casing for the input shaft)

These are the tapered bearings needed for the gearbox rebuild.(No pics of the diff bearings)

20160612 211315 resized Medium

From the top..
Input shaft bearings, 02M 311 124A (clutch housing side) & 02M 311 123B (gearbox housing side)
1st - 4th output shaft bearings, 02M 311 220 (clutch housing side) & 02M 311 123B (gearbox housing side)
5th - 6th output shaft bearings, 02M 311 124 (clutch housing side) & 02M 311 123B (gearbox housing side)
2x Differential bearings - 002 517 185M ( the quattro diff uses the same size bearing on each side) not in the picture.

All bearings are marked so I don't get the bearings and races mixed up, as I'm doing this rebuild piece meal.
Very important not the mix the races up between the bearings.

20160612 210804 resized Medium

Since I don't have a hydraulic press at home, I have been man baking.
So far I have had the diff in the freezer and the diff bearings in the oven and the same goes for the input shaft and bearings.
I have also had the clutch housing part of the gearbox in the oven and all the bearings races for the clutch housing, in the freezer.

This way the hot bearings just slip onto the cold shafts.
I did manage to mess it up when doing the bearings on the diff. One side went straight on, but I think I waited too long to do the other side and the bearing cooled down too much. So it got stuck. I had to go use a press at the machine shop to get the bearing on all the way.

IMG 20160611 WA0012 resized Medium

Pressed on now.
IMG 20160611 WA0009 resized Medium

After that I torqued up the ARP bolts on the LSD and that was the diff done.

Next up was man baking the clutch housing part of the gearbox, while the bearing races chilled in the freezer.
FYI - make sure you clean all the gearbox oil off the diff, that stuff smokes A LOT. My kitchen looked like a smoke machine just went off in the night club.

Before dropping in the cold bearing races into the hot clutch housing, I had to determine which races needed a shim installed first.
With the help of the Elsawin workshop manual and the link below, I managed to work out what was required
(Broke is a legend), http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5690818-02M-preload-info-for-Dub-Nub
All the below info is to do with the clutch housing side of the gearbox.
The Diff race requires a 0.65mm shim installed in the clutch housing side before the race is fitted.
The 5th & 6th output shaft requires a 0.65mm shim installed in the clutch housing side before the race is fitted.
The 1st - 4th output shaft does NOT require a shim, instead it has an "oil deflection plate" dont forget to install the plate before the bearing race.
The Input shaft does not require a shim in the clutch housing side.
Ensure you line up the notch in the input race with the notch in the housing. This allows the locking bolt/tab to be fitted

Clutch housing with new bearings races and the diff.
IMG 20160611 162048 resized Medium

Next up, was the input shaft.
I pulled the old bearings off the input shaft using one of these.

Then the input shaft went into the freezer while the bearings went into the oven.
This time I left one bearing in the oven while I fitted the other end. They both slipped straight onto the input shaft without an issues. Don't mix the bearings up as each end is different.

New bearings on input shaft - (make sure to install the bearings with the tapered side away from the gears)
retainer C-clip to be installed still.
20160612 211616 resized Medium

LSD has a friend, input shaft with billet insert.
20160612 211747 resized Medium

Next step will be to attack one of the output shafts, pull the old bearings off and get the new ones one.

to be continued.....


Registered User
Some more progress on the box.

Output shafts with their new bearings.


Measuring the preload for the required shims to fit behind the bearing race in the gearbox housing side.

Housing bolted down and DTI set to 0 with a preload of 1mm.


Then with the bolts loosened off the DTI reading was 0.07mm
I did each measurement 3 times and got very similar readings, within 0.005mm each time.


Measuring the diff.


Now I wait for the shims to arrive. Ordered a few extra sizes just to be safe.


I have been quoted £300+vat by north west transmissions for the rebuild of my gearbox and fitting of uprated steel shift forks.

I'm assuming this is strictly just a replacement of the forks.

Does this sound alright?

Naturally I would love to delve into the gearbox myself like the guys have done here and learn a bunch of cool stuffs, but time is of the essence, and sometimes convenience wins.


Registered User
Gearboxes are fun. Karl, TBH you've got enough know how to do it!

After rebuilding mine be just twisted a shaft and snapped another lol


Registered User
Did beat my PB though!!!

So close to that 10s run 11.01 @134 never mind all in the name
of fun and breaking **** lol


Registered User
Right guys..... following recent events i will be picking up a new box tomorrow and fitting m,y upgrades to it.

The place near me that i will be going to collect from has 3 boxes and want to make sure i get the best suited option. Is there any more differences between the boxes as two i had here that had different codes apeared to have the numbers of teeth on the gears that checked.

The codes they have available which they say all came from TT's are FHB, FMT and DXW. I ideally want the longest ratio set out of these but was wondering if there was any other differences or rumoured to be stronger boxes?

My old box.....Rest In Pieces due to stripping 4th gear mid acceleration around 5k :(

Considering other strengthening mods like Cryo treated gears if not to dear and people see it as a worthy thing to do?


Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
DRP gearbox code is rumored to be the strongest box as per the interweb warriors. No idea how this was measured or what parts are meant to be stronger.

I managed to find one here that came from a 2.8 4motion Bora (Jetta)

Although obviously you need to change the bell housing for them to fit a 1.8t ;)



Registered User
Hi, does this 4th gear support come with a drawing or how to you get the right position?

It's supplied with instructions by darkside but I did profile the brass insert to suit its position to the shaft.

Not an exact science though TBH and needs a bit of fettling


Registered User
Thought I'd bump this thread rather than make a new one. The bearings are gone in my car, makes a horrible rattle as I drive so I'm taking the box out to rebuild it.

I'll be using all new bearings and shift forks for gears 1-4. My engine builder said I should install new syncros while it's out.

Since the gears weren't grinding before would you bother with this? Does anyone know of a kit to get them all? Just searching part numbers on ECS and it is getting quite pricey, Hoping there is a kit that is cheaper but I can't find one for the life of me.

I'll likely get the reinforcement plate, not sure about 4th gear support though..


Registered User
there is a procedure in the workshop manual for measuring the wear on the synchro's,
I guess its a judgment call on the expense of changing them now, (if they are in spec and working) against pulling the box out again at some future time.


Just going through the parts sale thread and i may have found the following:

Output shaft: 02M311208C