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I also had this issue. The bolt had completely seized. Nothing worked, and I eventually had to take it to the local garage, where they welded a nut on top of it, and made a right old mess of the surrounding areas of the grill! (Not their fault; it really was the only way to be able to remove the...

I got those cheapo Chinese pedal covers a couple of years ago, and they’ve been great. For all intents and purposes, as good as the real thing!

I should add that the transport screws, on the inside of the units, are secured into the section to which the adjustment motor will go. This means the transport screw, once turned half a turn, will take a lot of finagling to come out.

Yes that’s where mine were from.

I also found them very hard to turn. They have sort of rubber washers/o-rings, which, in mine, got mangled up and made them really hard to turn. If I remember correctly they only need about half a turn to come out, rather than screwing all the way out.

Wow, that’s steep. I just got it on eBay for less than GBP 20. It didn’t have a brand stated, but turned out to be one of those parts where the Audi symbol has been scratched off to keep things legal!

Changed the EVAP N80 valve, and charcoal canister, to get rid of a check engine light and this code: 16825/P0441/001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow Really simple job!

Did the same not long along. I got some on eBay — part no WHT001002.

This is supposed to temporarily switch the A/C to recirculating mode when it detects very poor air quality outside. This is cheap and easy to replace. I did so a while ago but don’t remember exactly where it was — I think under the plastic cowl (is that the right word?!) under the bonnet.

Also restored the tired-looking steering wheel, just using a cheap Ebay restoration kit: Before: After:

Took off the B pillar exterior trim pieces to wrap them. It was my first attempt at wrapping, and I think it looks good enough. Maybe more heating/stretching would have reduced the orange peely effect though?

Most people go for the Audi A3 8V one. Not sure if that's the same part number? I got this one. The nozzle is the same. I had to change the cap that covers the nozzle and nut, as it would dislodge every time I lifted the wiper, but this may have been because the one I already had was a Chinese...

I'm interested in trying this too. It looks pretty simple looking at this:

As far as I know, when I had it done recently, they didn't replace the bearings. As I supplied the backing plates myself, I think they only charged for labour.

Obviously this depends on your experience/competence, but it requires removing the brake calipers, which I didn't fancy doing myself - never done any work on brakes - so I got them done recently by a local indie Audi garage. Bought them online myself though for about £30 for the pair, including...

Thanks, all. I wasn't having problems; just curious about how the fuel system works, really.

Even in my ancient 2006 one? Nice! I didn't know that was a thing in any car. I must say I don't think I've ever noticed a difference between turning to accessory position first, or not, which would make sense.

Is it advised to turn the key to the accessories position, for the fuel pump to prime itself, before turning on the engine? Or does it make no difference to just turn on the engine straight away?

This is also a great resource to decipher those stickers: http://prsearch.planetvag.com/

1KD and 1KZ are the manufacturer codes that tell you which brakes you have. The sticker (which I think is in the spare wheel well, in the boot) that lists the factory options on your car will tell you which brakes you have. This link may help...