Search results for query: *

thanks for your help fouryoghurts.

This is strange. All I did on saturday was disconnect the battery and changed the fuse. Since then there is no revving up to 1000 rpm when idleing. The battery leads looked secure before I took them off so I dont think it was that. Fingers crossed.

Spot on fouryoghurts, it was the 200 amp fuse. I picked one up at tps today. Now back to th original problem.

Excellent. Thankyou. I will check this tomorrow evening and get back to you. Good excuse to use the tubby for travel to work.

Seeing 7.8v between alt b+ and battery +ve. I will pm you details. Thanks for your help.

Now I am a bigger idiot. While taking the nut off the alternator b+ connector in order to obtain more thread to connect my jump lead, my spanner caused a spark as it touched a neighbouring metal pipe. I thought I heard a pop sound from the fuse box but on checking the fuses they all looked...

Will do tomorrow. Damn I should have already done that, IDIOT!

Loaded up and ticking over at 1000 revs, seeing 0.04v between battery -ve and engine block.

Checked it with the voltmeter and I am seeing 0.27 volts with all lights on, aircon and radio blasting and she is sitting at 1000 revs. I did notice that tonight she started doing this revving up before she was warmed up, at around 50 degree c.

Thanks for info fouryoghurts. Just to confirm, when you say "To rule out simply connect jump lead in same way as voltmeter. If fault disappears, happy days." you are meaning that this action confirms that I need to replace the wiring? As a temporary measure I could put a 4 AWG wire in between...

Tonight when car was showing accelerated tick over of 1000rpm when engine was at running temperature I switched her off and grabbed a voltmeter and waited a few minutes. I checked the battery and she was sitting at 12.48V (I think). Started her up and she was ticking over at 800rpm and showing...

Cheers mate. I looked in the fuse box tonight and saw that there was a spare connection stud on the metal plate that a cable could be connected to. I will do the tests at the weekend with a voltmeter when it shows the problem. If this is the solution I would prefer to replace the damaged...

Sorry Rideen, should of clarified your suggestion is what I intend to try. You got a picture of how you have connected it up? Thanks.

Cleaned the throttle body, EGR valve and inlet manifold at the weekend. What a mess! I will get the turbo cleaned in a couple of weeks time. Any way, problem is still there so I will continue exploring the suggestions. I will try the battery in the mean time until I can get diagnostics kit on...

here is part of the diagnostics print out of interest 00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000 01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel --...

Thanks for suggestions. I will be getting her connected up to diagnostic tools today so hopefully will find some error codes. Cleaning the EGR and turbo has been on the cards for this year so will be getting done over the next couple of weeks.

Hi ppl, My 2006 A3 2.0l TDI has developed a problem. When the engine is at running temperature and idling it sits at 800 rpm then after ~30 seconds the revs jump to 1000 rpm and idles for 30 seconds then drops back to 800 rpm and repeats this process. Any suggestions? Thanks

Why should the turbo go after 60-80k miles? If you warm the car up correctly and allow it to cool down correctly after turbo abuse, then it should last a lot longer than that. I know one member on here has an A4 with 300k miles on original turbo although it is approaching a need for a change...

Well impressed with the finish. Don't suppose you took any images from before you started and how long did it take you to do the engine bay? I just bought a power washer and foam lance but I think I could convince the missus we need a steam cleaner for the bathroom. ;-)

Cheers mate. Just checked up on how to test the pump and a special tool is required and it does not look like it takes long to disconnect and test. I will see if I can get it checked out by a friend who works for Audi.