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It actually turned out to be easy to diagnose. The cluster plug/interface allows disconnection of single pins, I therefore just disconnected pins 8 (CTS voltage pin) and pin 7 (CTS Earth pin) and plugged the plug back in, turned engine on and gauge went to 120 instantly. I've installed another...

I'm swapping my cluster with a used one, sick of repairing this piece of ***. Yeah, chances are the used one will be just as bad, but if it is I'll parcel it up and send it to Audi HQ coated in dog ****. So I have both SKCs and VCDS, and ive read the ross tech wiki, but I need to clarify...

This turned out to be, yet again, a cluster fault. Audi and their ****** products.... okay they never made it, who cares... they are still *********. First they decline to fix my roof rail corrosion under warranty and now I have to fork out for a second cluster repair in less than 24 months...

Cheers.

Cheers, never thought much about it, but now you said TB I recall how smooth the throttle is.

Don't be a ****.

Hi, Can someone tell me what sensors these three are, they sit under manifold on 1.8 A3 2001. Also what is the thing in the other pic? Ta

For reference: Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) Pinout Pin 1: Signal to instrument panel Pin 2: Earth Pin 3: Signal to ECU Pin 4: Earth Instrument Panel Pinout (Blue Connector) Pin 8: Coolant Temperature Sensor

Verified plug was sound tonight. All that is left is wiring and cluster. Mofo.

"An old thread I will revive, this issue I still have" - in a Yoda style voice. Except there is a serious lack of Yoda's wisdom here [emoji45].... Okay I may be a little drunk, but my problem is 'real'. I never did resolve this one. I've been putting up with the ****** temp warning symbol and...

:-/ that's not good news. I'm gonna treat it like an electrical fault first then move on. I think its too coincidental to have the cts and raw and esp all going loopy at once.

Well with all the trouble with the temp sensor and now this, in the space of a few weeks, I'm beginning to think that this is either an earth / ground issue or a battery voltage issue. On the other hand, tufty may be right. Battery as of tonight reads 12.25v. I'll read it again in the morning...

Last week my ESP started kicking in once in a while without reason. Sometimes the light comes on the dash but with no braking etc, but now it's worse and the actual ESP light comes on and it brakes randomly. Sometimes it happens while driving normally without touching the brake pedal. Often it...

Thanks I'll give that a go tomorrow.

So anyone know what the gauge should do if the sensor connector is removed? (disconnected)? I get the gauge still saying 110 and random other things above 90. Hence I'm thinking its a wiring / voltage fault of some kind. Any schematics or geniuses on the wiring here?

I've reset the fault codes, run the car a few mile and no fault is being logged, even though the gauge on dash reads 120 and the warning light comes on. I'm now certain this isn't a heating issue but an electrical one. I've looked at vagcom and on the instrument module the temperature is high...

Do I need to drive the car a bit before the bottom pipe warms up?

Hi, read the codes and only one I get is; 16502 - engine coolant temp. Sensor (G62) - Signal too high - Intermittent. Which according to what I've read is a faulty sensor, though I've just replaced it. So I'm wondering if the new sensor is crapped. It is supposedly a Beru ST119 which seller...

Thanks I'll read the codes tomorrow and get back to you.

Hi, I replaced the temp sender because the gauge kept reaching 120 mark, hot or cold start it is very random. Sometimes it settles at 100 for ahile, other times it jumps straight up to 120. Unfortunately a new oem sensor didn't fix it. Before I look at thermostat, is there a requirement to...