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www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07RJPK8J3

I’ve not done that area as it seems the whole centre console needs to be pulled out to do it properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Bit of a faff but looks better than the piano black I think. Also was a good introduction to wrapping in general.

As above and LED interior lights is a nice cheap little mod.

Got it. According to CTEK support, the snowflake symbol is the AGM battery mode on the older chargers.

Thanks John. My charger is from about 2009 and doesn't have any specific settings for AGM, although the manual says it's suitable for 'all battery types'. I think as you say it'll be OK but I've got onto their support email for confirmation.

Not using the car much these days, so wondering how the battery charge is holding up. I've sussed to use the battery charging terminals under the bonnet and also that the battery is AGM type. My battery charger is a fairly fancy CTEK MXS 5.0. Would anyone think there would be a problem...

First easiest check is fuses: http://www.audihowto.com/audi-a6-c7-2011-to-2018-fuse-box-location-and-fuses-list/

Awesome. Glad it helped. :thumbs up:

OK, so after a morning's work (not quite what I'd banked on for installing a few LEDs) here's a summary of my experiences: 1. Never install a lamp while the holder is live. 2. Fit them one at a time. If they don't light up when they should, pull the LED lamp out again, rotate it 180 degrees and...

Awesome, thanks. That's a HUGE relief as removing the steering wheel would be WAY too complex a job 'on the drive' with basic tools, plus I need to refit the LED lights again at some point and plan on doing that with the lower dash panel removed so I can replace the fuse again in case it blows a...

Anyone know right off the bat if the lower dash panel can be removed without removing the steering wheel?

https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?18410-Control-Circuit-for-A-C-Compressor-B10A9-29-008-Signal-Implausible/page2 Hidden fuse box?? Seriously?

LEDs pack was from Led Mafia (LED-prinz) on Ebay. The LED that works in the boot is about as bright as the original lamp I'd say (but whiter). I've pulled all the others out for the moment and haven't seen them working in the dark yet because of the power issues I've experienced. The product of...

More research on the Ross Tech forums gives some further hope. It seems there are fuses in the boot that control the supply of power to the front fuse panels. This *could* explain why the lights are dead although the fuse in the front fusebox is good. Work begins tomorrow in the boot. The...

Dead as a Dodo. So far as I know at this point the interior lights and the horn don't work despite both fuses (one for each circuit) appearing to be perfect in every way. As far as I can tell the computer has isolated the circuit and some 'stealer-level' reset is required (Carista error reset...

I think, in hindsight, I'd pull down the lamp holder from where it is clipped into the top of the glovebox, then unclip it from the wiring before changing the lamp for the best outcome.

Yep, that was after I'd checked all the fuses and thought the computer was to blame. I tried to clear the faults with Carista, which I've assumed is as good as any other tool in that respect. To be fair, I tried to replace the lamp (in the glovebox) while it was powered on, which in hindsight...

Ah yeah that was the first fuse I hit. I've not replaced it as such but I've pulled it out, had a good look at it and it looks A1 TBF. Continuity test is OK, so it's still conductive and doesn't show any signs of burn. The return of daylight tomorrow morning will start a major diagnostic process...