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Used to get this done on my old MkII GTI, but I wouldn't recommend it on any kind of modern car as there are to many electronic bits and electrical connections to be hit with water at high pressure. Don't do it!

I have a similar problem at the moment, my local stealers said that no fault codes were showing, but there was a value which was outsided normal spec. They want to try a new airflow meter, although I have serious doubts about this being the cause. The car is now booked in for Tuesday for a more...

Its also pot luck whether a new one is any better as they're all exchange units. Took my local stealers 3 goes to get one better than my original and then this one failed after about 12 months! Fortunately my AA warranty covered the original and Audi parts warranty covered the remainder.

Did you check that the spring is correctly seated and not snapped? They tend to snap on the last coil so it is not immediately obvious that they have broken.

I think that they were trying it on, but was only offered £5500 against an A4 TDi 130 sport at an Audi specialist dealer earlier in the year. Keep getting told that the mileage is killing the value. | thought that the whole point was that these cars went on forever and so held their value...

Car looks good, but you will be best off trying to sell it privately. I've just been offered £3500 for my 98 R plate 1.8 T with 83k on the clock and full Audi service history, except the last service which was done by a specialist. This was against an 02 Bora TDi 130 sport at my local friendly...

Just a thought, check the drivers door lock and see if it feels warm. I did see on here some time ago that the controller for the heated door locks sometimes plays up and keeps the heating element switched on all the time. This would flatten your battery quite nicely, although I would have...

Just had problems sound similar to yours, my A3 1.8TS began feeling like there was no turbo boost. The ECU was showing fault codes for the throttle body. This may be fixed by decoking the throttle body or by replacement. Since I have an AA waranty I let the dealers replace it. Car is now back on...

I think it should switch itself off. The one in my A3 does after about 10 mins.

I've got an anoying rattle from the dash somewhere around the stereo and switches. I had a creak similar to the one you describe Rob, it turned out to be the catched for the rear seat back rest. They just needed lubricating and it's been fine since. Simon

Stop press.....spy shots of new A2....

You can get a set of 4 in either black, light grey or blue from the stealers for £27. Not quite the same as the ones which come with the car, but not bad for the money.

New cluster is the only cure unfortunately. Cost is around £350 as it needs to be done by the stealers because they have to re-code keys etc. All clusters are now exchange units, I'm now on my fourth because the replacements have had the same problem!

I've got an AA waranty on my 98 A3 1.8TS. So far they have paid out for and air flow meter, rear brake flexi pipe, new clocks and a new fuel gauge sender. All work was carried out at my local Audi Stealer subject to obtaining authorisation from them first. I had to pay for the work and then...

My air bag light came on and I took it to a local VW/Audi specialist who asked if I'd had the car valeted. I hadn't, but my ice scraper was under the front passenger seat and had caught on the wiring for the seat air bag causing an error code for the air bag igniter. Cost to reset was £10! No...

Rob, Not sure how the Audi alarm system is wired, but it may be that the head unit is connected in some way and that by fitting an aftermarket unit you have not reconnected it back into the system. The alarm senses something is not right in the same way as leaving a door open and trying to arm...

I have a K&N panel filter which I ran in my A3 1.8TS for about 6 months. I'm open to sensible offers if anyone is interested.

Try an Audi specialist with the VAG diagnostic computer. I think that its a simple operation to re-activate the air bag and warning light on the dash should confirm that it is active i.e. the airbag light will go out and stay out, not flash 5 times before going out each time you start the car.

Don't you believe it! Stealers charge between 0.5 - 1.0 hours labour for this, £35 - £75, just for plugging it into a computer for 5 minutes. Also, they are reluctant to do it unless you have the paperwork from when it was deactivated.

Recomdos, I'm just outside Middlesbrough are you in durham city or County Durham? It's too soon to tell if the gauge is right yet, but it looks somewhere close at the moment. I had the clocks replaced last year to cure the fading DIS, so the gauge itself "should" still be OK.