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Yeah sounds like it's most likely the cv joint. When it goes it doesn't tend to make a noise unless you're turning. If say you were on full lock just turning in a circle the noise of a bad cv joint would be a constant repetitive click Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Constant repetitive click when moving and turning? If so I'd check cv joints Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

I agree no problem with delivery when I last ordered November 2020 (Pre Brexit). I haven't used them since as I suspected with the chaos of import/export trading at the moment there would be problems. Shame really as they were way cheaper than the standard EuroCarParts, GMF etc. Sent from my...

I got a new battery about 9 months ago and it didnt change anything. I did test fuses and found that when I removed the fuse for the circuit that contains the central comfort convenience unit (fuse 3 in engine bay if I remember correctly), the drain went down to 0.4a. I got a second hand unit...

Following I've had this exact problem for over a year now including the exact same multimeter reading. If you leave the multimeter connected for even longer it goes down again to 0.10-0.11. My cars battery is dead after 2 days of standing. Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Has anyone ever used Vogtland springs?

Think I might get one 2nd hand actually as they don't seem too expensive and might come in handy again. Do you know what cable I'd need? I've got a 2005 a3 3.2 V6, Is it a hex v2? Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

No problem thanks for your help! Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies, Bit annoying as I guess I'll have to pay a lot at a garage for something so simple but it's not worth me getting cable and software for this one job. Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Great thanks thought this would be the case, Is it possible to sync the key by using the 2 key method? (1 key in ignition while one in door pressing unlock button). Or do I have to do this through VCDS as its never been synced to the unit before? Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

I had a noise very similar to that for about a year although it was coming from both sides. The drivers side noise was coming from around where my left foot was. Towards the end it started to make more noise when I put more load on that side, for example if I hard locked right and pulled off the...

Hi just wondering if someone can please help me with some info. I've just replaced the convenience control unit as there was a drain from the battery leading to the unit. I got a second hand one, same part number. Just wondering if all i have to do is code my key to it so I can use the central...

I just found these Eibach springs on ebay for a pretty good price. Anyone have any experience with them...

I replaced the reverse light switch, no change still not working. I realised today that when doing my test for a draw on the battery my conversion between milliamps and amps was wrong. 0.4A is 400 milliamps which is a significant draw on the battery. From researching I found out it should be...

Thanks for the reply Pro Sport are currently the cheapest so I suspected this might be the case. I'll have a look at AP. Yeah I was thinking about getting lowering springs but the reason I'm wanting to do it now is because the shocks are going so I would have to get new shocks on the front...

Looking at getting some coilovers on a budget. Brands I've found are Stance+, JOM, Pro Sport and FK AK. Just wondering if anyone has any of these installed and how they like them or dislike them. I've heard about adjustable tie bars being installed on the rear when you install the coilovers...

That's a good shout I didn't think of that. I've already put all the wires back to stock and that's fixed the bulb warning messages on dash I was getting. But the reverse light still isn't working, I tested the reverse light wire on connector to the cluster and it read 0.6v which was the same as...

I charged the battery overnight and started testing this morning. The battery was as it should be 12.6V I then did a drain test with multimeter set to 5A setting and connected to the positive battery terminal, and the positive battery lead. When connected the amps shoot to 1.1 then down to 0.9...

So it started up fine when I jumped it. The Reverse light had a bulb warning initially, but then went and it's still not working However all the other bulb warnings have disappeared which is some good news. I also forgot to mention that the boot/luggage bulb isn't working. I started the car...

Yeah that's what I'm thinking, I guess one of the tail lights wasn't working in the past. I'll have to wait until the morning now to see if it will start with the wire removed. Do I test output voltage by putting multimeter on battery terminals with engine running? Sent from my SM-G981B using...