4.7 litres suggested by others and is what I poured in - I cycled through the gears as described before driving.
Definately fit the filter and cover before strating the engine!
Stuart
I used a thin slitting disc in a 4.5" angle grinder for cuts and then heat gun / soldering iron to close the area in 3rd picture using a discarded offcut and plastic welding. HTH Stuart
“Timing belt / drive belt and water pump” will be cam belt & the water pump which is driven off the cam belt.
The preventative maint sticky thread suggests 70k intervals for cam belt but there is also usually a age recommendation.
There is also a cam chain at the other end of the engine that...
I'd agree with above - fit the indiction and exhaust now it will be ok as is but save up and then go Stage2+ in one hit and thoroughly recommend R-Tech.
I would suggest get R-Tech to fit the RS4 PRV and HPFP kit when they have the car in to do the map. They are both in the same area and the PRV...
I have a Turbo back resonated Miltek on 8P S3 - its slightly louder than std but not intrusive at all on motorways and doesn't turn heads as being anti-social. If you've already bough a catback Miltek and fitted it then you have chosen resonated or non-res - swapping the downpipe and cat only...
NGK BKR7EIX are a very popular choice, I am running 8's which run a little cooler with no issue even in the depths of winter - suggest you go with the advice of your engine builder / mapper.
Sounds like a good number to have a recorded baseline / keep an eye on if you have capability to check it.
Just fired up VCDS and block 93 showed -2 degrees on my engine (53k miles & no audible chain rattle).
Front Anti Lift Kit and Rr ARB is a good upgrade even if you change nothing else and both are easy to fit.
I fitted the 24mm Whiteline ARB 7 use on the hardest setting - those 2 mods together make the car significantly more positive on turn-in and balanced.
Std rear ARB is around 22mm IIRC and...
Thanks for the suggestions, upper amp is 8p4 035 225 B which I think is different to non-B.
Today I removed RNS-E checked coax continuity (all good) - put it all back in and all stations are working again!
I'll see how long it stays like that and if it throws any new codes on VCDS.
Thanks Craig - the previous owner had played with the car a bit so quite possible he had an AV input & I'm putting a reverse camera on didn't see the point of recoding for a couple of weeks. Yes I still believe it is factory fit RNSE, phone integration etc and given radio reception was fine for...
pretty fast running out of ideas after some more checking - Any other ideas invited...
- swapped upper amp for another - no change
- checked both aerial continuity on rear glass - both ok
- checked continuity from aerial joints on glass to plugs into both amps & also continuity of the 3 wires...
Nope - other way round as the new tyres are smaller rolling circumference - at any indicated speed you are going 7.8% slower on the new tyres then you were on the old tyres but that doesn't fit with your comment of 30mph flash-up signs.
I have found an Accumate to be very good to keep a car battery charged & conditioned for extended periods - once it has hit target voltage it goes into maintenance mode monitoring battery voltage until voltage drops below a threshold whereupon it switched back into trickle charge etc - IE no...
If its full turbo back exhaust Milltek then whats the problem? If it is cat-back then agree its a big compromise if you are planning on mapping.
Figure out exactly what you have first.
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