Thanks!
It does disengage during braking, preventing it from doing so is a case of disconnecting a single wire going down to the Haldex (in the same place you'd splice into the CAN lines). I'll need to experiment with this because it would be awesome to be able to turn this on & off at will...
Two main reasons:
There is a crap load of traffic on the bus and the interceptor passes all of it through to the Haldex. This takes a lot of CPU time and I'm not certain how much is left. I'm sure that there are at least one or two IDs I can ignore but haven't gone through trying to remove any...
I've been working on this for quite a while now.. but I think it's now time to put this out to a wider audience.
It's basically a DIY touch motion.
https://github.com/ABangingDonk/OpenHaldex
Figured you lot might be interested :)
A quick demo:
Replace coils and plugs. You should be able to match misses with knock voltage dips to let you know where this is happening.
Also check for ARMD intervention - you'll see massive drops in timing angle if that's causing it
I'm beginning to think that it might not even be possible to design a stainless tubular manifold that isn't destined to crack... Maybe with a billet collector but for £950, I'd rather buy a chinafold and a die grinder than attempt to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks for the input everyone
ADs3:
Yeah, no cracks is the key.. only one way to find out unfortunately!
Alex C:
Nortech for K04 would be ideal
superkarl:
It's mostly the porting part which is the problem for me, a massive pain in the **** from what I've seen/heard... Isn't quality a bit of a lottery? I can't help but...
Hi guys,
Seeing as the only viable option we have for exhaust manifold is a ported chinafold, I've started a conversation with a company doing exhaust fabrication with the view of getting a decent tubular made up - a group buy would be a possibility after he's done the first one. Fully prepared...
Dry solder joints in the pump unit are common
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ettforum%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D662714&share_tid=662714&share_fid=846&share_type=t
It's a bit of a pain but mine were exactly as pictured
Is it? DP fitting and modification bumped up the cost, original quote was £650
Happy either way, still reckon a DP designed to mate to the stock cats are a waste of time
Just throwing my pennies in...
I don't see the point of these Graham, it won't be anywhere near as good as a proper 3" DP and is not worth the hassle.
Save for a full system going 3" all the way back, it's not cheap but will work out to be a much more cost effective upgrade.
Attached invoice...
Don't you need to fully recalibrate the PID now that the WG response is completely different? N75 duty required to hold the same boost will surely change now that you've got a 15psi actuator..
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=517.msg4028#msg4028
Well done on the build...
Your previous LAMFA is fine for the 100% row, I think changing the values in other rows is a bit useless.
MAF g/s is higher than you'd expect, my only guess is that this is due to the intake mods flowing well? Doesn't really matter, just squeeze what you can out of it without maxing injectors...
Looks OK from here, notice how you have no room for timing advance up top.
Now you can enrich to ~0.85 (12.5) gradually across the rev range, continuing the stock curve. Mine looks like this
This should take care of the timing pull at 5000+. Take more logs, check the injector duty cycle...
The load is all over the place. To be honest, I think you should go back to the stock bin and start again.
Don't start playing with timing until you have your fueling, load and knock sorted.
Give us a full throttle run of your stock file to rule out potential H/W issues.
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