So my car had RNSE and a Bluetooth module from the factory. I've now fitted another headunit and wondered if I can use the standard mic?
Has anyone successfully rewired a 3.5mm jack onto the standard mic wiring to work with an aftermarket?
I've got a Kenwood DNX-8160DABS which is essentially an older version of the one you listed above.
I'm very impressed with it and can't fault it, saying that I pretty much exclusively use the android auto functionality.
Swap your spacers and remove the arch liner screw at the back - I run 15mm front and 10mm back, wider front track will help with balancing the handling of the car.
They work perfectly, I don't get any rubbing at all.
It locates the subframes accurately to the body.
As standard the subframes have a 18mm diameter hole with a 12mm bolt so that they can be assembled easily at the factory. Problem being that the subframes can move by up to 3mm in each direction, which is lightyears in suspension geometry...
Which antennas have you tried guys?
I'm looking into replacing my OEM shark fin with one that has FM, DAB and GPS, there seem to be a lot available on eBay but the price varies considerably!
I have a Kenwood head unit that I'm planning to fit it to so might answer your reception uncertainty.
I can confirm that they will not fit with the Al alloy hub, I had to swap back to an a cast steel hub to fit mine.
Also bear in mind I had a little trouble with getting the ball joints to fit, iirc the S3 ball joint was too long which meant that it rubbed the inside of the disc.
I run speed...
Can anyone tell me what is needed to get the symphony stereo working please?
I previously had a RNS-E unit with Bluetooth, MFSW, SDS high etc, but after a scummy individual decided to take what wasn't theirs I'm loathed to fork out for another.
I've bought a cheaper symphony unit but when I...
I've only been as a passenger, but I echo what sidibear said, I was amazed at just how quick things would pass you, even those you wouldn't expect to!
I'm of the opinion that someone who doesn't know the track well would be more likely to wear tyres and brakes, braking harder than needed and...
Sounds like a similar issue to the one I'm having at present, along with a vibration at 65+mph
Ive changed so far:
Wishbones and balljoints
Hubs and bearings
As Joe said above, I now think mine is the steering rack as I've got play in the steering wheel.
Depending on what's out of alignment there are 4 or 6 bolts you need to loosen. 4 bolts for the subframe itself, then 2 for the brackets that bolt to the chassis.
I'd try the 4 holding the subframe first and see how you get on
Also bear in mind you should detach the exhaust hanger ,gearbox...
I'm guessing it's holding back because of the 95RON fuel in it, the ECU is protecting the engine from excessive knock.
I'd go on a couple of decent runs on the motorway to A, burn off the fuel, and B, give the engine a chance to bed in a bit more
Looks similar to the issue I had. Have you checked the ride height of the car? I.e. measure arch to ground for each wheel and compare.
My issue seems to have been due to two things:
The above, uneven ride height causing excessive camber on the lower side.
Subframe was way out of alignment.
It will depend somewhat on the design of the wheels. Something like a team dynamics pro race has loads of spoke clearance so doesnt needs as low of an offset to clear.
To give you a rough idea, I have bbs speedlines which are et54, I have to run 15mm spacers to clear cayenne calipers, so around...
I believe that the alloy used for the engine block is a aluminium with a high proportion of silicon. Therefor it would make sense that following the run in period, there would be a reasonably high amount of block in the oil