I’ll get this info for you later no problem if you PM reg [emoji1303]
Key out and stick another battery on with jump leads as quick check. If you get your dash lights back and it cranks, then new battery is gubbed....
If connections at new battery fine and you have no dash lights with ignition on, you have a main relay/ignition switch problem (assumes new...
Check the connections at the coil packs including separate earths. If they’re good. Double check plug type and install.
Murphy’s Law. Every time. [emoji2359]
Well done [emoji1303] [emoji1319]
If it’s same spec then all good.
I’d say if you can power window manually with a power probe or something this will determine if it’s a control or actuator issue.
Struggling to understand this sentence. Please clarify.
Short/open position switch circuit as required. Ideally confirm status via live data but dash will also report, of course.
Mechanical parking brake?
Did you use a pressure bleeder?
Not done one for a while I’m pleased to say...this’ll be the one with the torx that secures the reservoir faces into the body...?...
Does the master cylinder itself have bleed screws? If so it’ll need bled too.
Despite this forum being a fantastic all round resource, I think most would agree, your vehicle should visit a garage.
If so, would be surprised if this was legal. Something the Competition and Markets Authority may be interested in [emoji848]
Some coding bit set to 1 instead of 0? [emoji23][emoji1750][emoji3603]
Yeh, first port of call full scan with VCDS -> save and clear all. Hopefully sporadic nonsense.
If you can get someone to scan post log here for...
Electronic fault present and put car in park before exiting vehicle. Of something like that.
Whack VCDS on check codes and check live boost vs spec.
I hear ya bro. Just love their business model [emoji1787]
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