You remove the original pedal covers then the TT ones push over the actual pedals. They are a bit tight and can be made easier by soaking in hot water for 5 minutes before you start. You can buy them from a dealer for about £35
I can't check the coding on my dash pod at the moment as I don't have VAGCOM installed. A search on the net revealed the following:
Select 17 (Instrument Cluster)Adaptation -> Function 10
-> Channel 19 (Misc)
xxxx?: Remote Clock
0 - Remote Clock not active
1 - Remote Clock active
As animal said if you car is an earlier type that doesn't use CAN bus then you will have the switched power in the ISO plug, if you car uses CAN bus then you don''t have the switched power at the head unit and the parrot won't switch on.
When I installed my kit I used a scotch lock connector and...
It's all in the coding on the dashpod. The S3 by default has the needles and dials illuminated all the time. The pod can be reprogrammed so that neither are on all the time and only come on when you turn the lights on, or as I currently have it programmed where the needles are on all the time...
The Haynes manual for the A3 (for 1.6, 1.8 and 1.8T) says:
Flywheel/driveplate mounting bolts
Stage 1 60NM
Stage 2 Angle tighten a further 90 degrees
I'd guess the figures would be the same for the S3?
I don't believe you have managed to destroy another engine. How many miles did you manage on the last one?
Where did you take it in the end?
We will definitely have to meet up after you have had it repaired.
A cheap brake upgrade is to fit the brakes off an S3/TT as they are 312mm compared to 288mm for the A3, then get some decent pads. The only parts that are needed are the calliper carriers and then the bigger disks. Makes quite an improvement.
Another vote for BJV. I just got a set of Avus wheels done for £140 although I had the tyres taken off before I gave them the wheels. They have done a fantastic job I had them done back to original colour. Because they powder coat the wheels instead of painting they should be more resilient...
The hoses from the FMIC to the engine won't collapse under load as they will be pressurised by the turbo, the only pipe that may collapse would be the intake pipe. I'm guessing this pipe is not standard though as it has the BT.
Still undecided on what I might get next, possibly S4 Avant I like the look of the new one but they still massively expensive as they have only just come out, or possibly an old RS4. The other car I quite fancy at the moment is a DB7 but that would have to be a second car, so that and a MKII Gti.
So if you don't mind me asking roughly how much has it cost you? I know that you where looking at 2-3k at the start I was just wondering if you managed to stick to that or went over?
Can't wait to see the final figures.
If you are going to try and change the thermostat yourself be careful with the dipstick tube as they can break very easy. I knew they where easily broken but still managed to break mine when I took it apart. Still they are only 3 quid or so from the dealer.