Sounds more like master cylinder than clutch. It’s hard to test if there is an air leak. It’s a fair job to replace it - get a local VAG specialist to take a look. Not a general mechanic, you need to see a specialist.
If it has a single mass flywheel (solid) the that is the cause of the heavy clutch and low bite point. I had a Spec clutch in mine and it was horrible between gears. Swapped to an RTS with SMF and it was much better but a little chatter noise.
Personally I’d pass of I was looking at that.
Injector cleaner is the work of the devil. It pushes more crap into the injector baskets so that will make the car run worse. You need to get your injectors ultrasonically cleaned and your plugs and coils replaced. Then get a compression test to check the head gasket hasn’t gone hence using...
After 5 years of ownership, mods, pampering yet only 7,000 miles of driving I’ve sold the S3. It’s time to move on to something more convenient for carrying the family and a car I don’t mind driving or putting miles on (the S3 was a garage queen that was just looked after).
I’m staying in the...
No Quattros are not that much slower, a little heavier in the back but not slower, especially when comparing 170 to 220 bhp.
Can you run a diagnostic check to see if there is any codes, this may also give a haldex error if it picks it up.
was it slow before the remap?
Between the drivers door and the door jamb, the loom passes into the car body.
Pull the rubber cover back and check that you don’t have any broken wires. It’s common for a wire to break and impact the door locks, windows (any window) or the mirrors.
40mm should be fine. I think H&R springs take the car down 30mm.
As for staggered size alloys don’t bother. If you’re going aftermarket rims then ET45 is perfect to fill the guards (18x8, 18x7.5). Any less than ET45 you’ll start getting guard rub issues - especially when loaded up.