Block 30 is pre and post-cat o2 value and status
Block 31 is Idle and Run Lambda adaptation. This for Air Trim - > 1.0 = Lean < 1.0 = Rich
Block 32 is pre-cat Voltage idle and load
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/030-049.html
Have you got a genuine cable? If its not, you can't register it and you will be limited to which blocks you can use.
30 - 32 are to do with fuel trim. I don't know why you would have trouble connecting if its genuine
The erratic idle and water temp sounds like a coolant temp sensor. These are really cheap to change. You want a green topped on as the black ones are notorious for failing.
This might help:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1287042
With regard to the missfire, its strange that they are...
I would reccomend using Ross-Tech's site and getting it from the states. I did, they Fed-Ex it and mine was in my sweaty palm in 1 1/2 days! I did get charged for import duty but as the $ is so weak against the £, it was a really good deal for me. Not sure what its like against the Euro though...
It still has its limitations as you haven't bought the license. Although I am surprised it won't let you at least connect.
The first problem is definately the cable though. You get what you pay for I am afraid.
Where abouts are you? I could plug in for you if you are close.
I think this is common. I have heard about this before.
They are linked, you can set the controller to make the windows to come down when you hold the unlock button in the fob.
It sounds like the switch is giving the window motor that signal intermitantly in error and the code says to me...
If you go into Central Locks - Coding and hover the mouse over the current code (Don't click it) Does it come up with the options then?
You should be able to add a number to the code to enable the flash.... I think..
The valve to atmosphere will definitely throw up the CEL. I have heard about this problem loads. Not sure about the misfire though. Its worth putting it back to recirc just to see.
In terms of the FPR. I am sure Leon Cupras and Cupra Rs have a 3 bar as std on AUQ and BAM engines. Perhaps there...
STD FPR is rated at 3 bar and changing to 4 bar is reccomended with phase 2 maps.
If you have a BOV that doesn't recirculate like it should, you will get problems too. I would change that if its an atmospheric one asap.
I must admit, I have never hear of anyone using a 5 bar FPR on any set up. I am not sure what the IHI or hybrid turbo boys use example though?
With a stage 2 remap with the required hardware, (FMIC, 100 cell CAT etc) the tuners recommend a 4 bar FPR.
I am not sure what the Piper cams are...
Have you checked your fuel lines and the Air Fuel mixture? As the fault code says, it could be due to low fuel in the cylinders caused by a blockage. I am assuming the tank is full...
Have you run the car on the new plugs and coil packs with no problem in the past or is this a 100% new setup...
Ressistance too high is definitely a wiring problem it means electrical resistance.
It will probably be the plugs as said above so I would check them and the wiring to the airbags. Perhaps some dilectric grease or something would make sure you get a better connection.
Glad to hear it Fran.... That was damn lucky.... I have been reading a thread about a cam belt snap on SCN.... ****** horrible pictures!!
You were lucky...
I agree with Macca. The MAP is Mass Air Pressure and measures, well, preassure!!
Its sits just before the throttle body i think.
Can you rememver the code you got Fran?
I have seen the " Check DV " Code loads of times. Check for leaks and test the DV for VAC leak but its worth giving the MAF a clean too as a dirty or old MAF could give the same code. You could log the output too. (The two engine faults are linked so cure one and the other will clear too)
The...
It depends on what engine you have. On a 1.8T, that would seem a bit low.
However, it is better to do logs in 3rd or ideally 4th if you have some private land to get up to that speed on, so the logs contain more detail and air flow can be better measured.
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