Removing only the butterfly valve tricks the computer that the Maf is running fine leaving the EGR to function.
but leaving it for a few days won’t cause any major issues and the Dpf will know it needs to regen once it’s all connected again
They are all connected in a computer sense. Removing the swirl connector increases the MAF reading which in turn will create an EGR error forcing it to stay shut 100% of the time
Dpf needs MAF readings and EGR readings to be correct to initiate a regen.
With the swirl connector removed it will cause higher Maf reading because the EGR will be shut off.
The only consequence this will have will be the EGR being shut off. The car will run great but you may have issues with DPF regeneration because the engine senses a fault.
With the swirl flap valve disconnected you will certainly see a higher Maf value because if you disconnect with the engine running you’ll here the EGR shut. To be honest I didn’t notice much difference mapping out the EGR less power if anything. But that swirl flap can cause all types of clatter.
That’s fine with Obd11
run a scan and you’ll probably get errors for the TPS and swirl flap Valve. clear the faults and switch Car off and On again and check faults again.
If nothing appears start car and check engine.
Only thing I can think of is you haven’t connected TPS connector properly...
Sounds like your lacking air.
have you made sure all connectors have been connected back Correctly ?.
Anything blocking intake ?. Rag or something ?
do you have VCDS ?.
The strange thing is that when I run engagement point adaptation with VCDS the gearbox then runs as smooth as silk and changes gear when it’s supposed to. But after a few days when it has runs through the different calibration steps it goes back to being a bag of nails.
Many thanks for the reply
yeah, oil and filters changed every 35,000kms.
I even got a software update from Audi but that didn’t help. They say theirs nothing wrong but I can feel the difference like night and day when it runs smooth and rough. I can almost feel jolts between gear changes when...
Ok
So I have the same problem.
I don’t think it’s your battery. I believe it will possible be the start button.
if you press the start button down hard when you start the engine it shouldn’t show an error.
Hi All
I have a 2012 with 7 speed s tronic. For months I thought I was having engine issues because the car would feel more lumpy and have less power sometimes but after checking everything I think it may be the transmission.
no faults what so ever and have also tried calibrating clutches...
Hi
I was wondering if you could have a look at the graph I logged for the throttle pedal position during Idle.
Is it normal to keep fluctuating like it’s doing in the graph ?.
checked with VCDS and no faults found but I have been noticing some erratic gear shifting lately with the s tronic...
Many thanks for the reply.
I can’t see any wobbles and the belt seems firmly in one place and not jumping around at all.
But your right I need to take the belt off and test the car for rattles.
It’s definitely only happening when the AC is On.
If I leave the engine running with the Ac off and...
It’s really strange.
at first I thought it was an injector problem. It sounds like a proper diésel clatter noise when accelerating and I noticed it was very intermittent.
If I switched off the Ac and put the temp to high for 5-10 mins the noise would suddenly disappear.
With the AC on I can...
Hi
just a quick question. Could a faulty ac compressor cause enough problems on engine load that you would notice slight power loss or like the engine is dragging something?.
also Can faulty AC cause a rattle only under load but not necessarily during idle ?.
many thanks
Hi All
Have a problem with the Dl501 stronic. When the car is in D from a standstill and I release the foot brake the car Jerks forwards. I also see the Rpm suddenly drop and pick up again.
It does this almost every time but seems to be worse the longer the car is stopped in D with the foot...
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