A4 DTM Edition (1 of 250)
Due to the arrival of a company car I have to sell my DTM. The car has had lots of time and money spent getting it to the spec it is today. Standard options include heated half leather half alcantara seats and steering wheel, heated power fold door mirrors, RNSE sat...
Having looked up the loba lo400 you should be good for circa 400BHP.
Pushing it much harder than that the problem you will come up against is getting sufficient fuel.
I'm running a similar setup on the internals and a Garrett GTX2860r. I've not had it on a rolling road but logging...
I've got a friend that had this same problem with his Seat Exeo (the A4 with different bumpers) we ended up replacing the CCM unit. I took the old unit apart afterwards and one of the relays had failed. If would be possible to remove the CCM open it up and test each relay, if one has failed...
You remove the original pedal covers then the TT ones push over the actual pedals. They are a bit tight and can be made easier by soaking in hot water for 5 minutes before you start. You can buy them from a dealer for about £35
I can't check the coding on my dash pod at the moment as I don't have VAGCOM installed. A search on the net revealed the following:
Select 17 (Instrument Cluster)Adaptation -> Function 10
-> Channel 19 (Misc)
xxxx?: Remote Clock
0 - Remote Clock not active
1 - Remote Clock active
As animal said if you car is an earlier type that doesn't use CAN bus then you will have the switched power in the ISO plug, if you car uses CAN bus then you don''t have the switched power at the head unit and the parrot won't switch on.
When I installed my kit I used a scotch lock connector and...
It's all in the coding on the dashpod. The S3 by default has the needles and dials illuminated all the time. The pod can be reprogrammed so that neither are on all the time and only come on when you turn the lights on, or as I currently have it programmed where the needles are on all the time...
The Haynes manual for the A3 (for 1.6, 1.8 and 1.8T) says:
Flywheel/driveplate mounting bolts
Stage 1 60NM
Stage 2 Angle tighten a further 90 degrees
I'd guess the figures would be the same for the S3?
I don't believe you have managed to destroy another engine. How many miles did you manage on the last one?
Where did you take it in the end?
We will definitely have to meet up after you have had it repaired.
A cheap brake upgrade is to fit the brakes off an S3/TT as they are 312mm compared to 288mm for the A3, then get some decent pads. The only parts that are needed are the calliper carriers and then the bigger disks. Makes quite an improvement.