You’d check with vcds/scan tool via the AC module. The nature of car AC I’m afraid often requires rectification of the immediate fault in front...
If you’ve checked the wiring correctly and the sensor is oem, fault must be in the module. Might be worth double checking your work as this isn’t...
Can you post the fault code?
Potentially m, yes. Always oem when renewing.
Check fuse first. Then power/grounds at module. When you attempt to access with vcds, can you access the module at all? Can you post a full scan?
So if you got no comms with hvac module that’ll need looking into. Check power/ground to module first.
Do we know the peak boost value under load?
Clean intake, renew dpf and egr. Sorted [emoji1303]
I’ll get this info for you later no problem if you PM reg [emoji1303]
Key out and stick another battery on with jump leads as quick check. If you get your dash lights back and it cranks, then new battery is gubbed....
If connections at new battery fine and you have no dash lights with ignition on, you have a main relay/ignition switch problem (assumes new...
Check the connections at the coil packs including separate earths. If they’re good. Double check plug type and install.
Murphy’s Law. Every time. [emoji2359] Well done [emoji1303] [emoji1319]
If it’s same spec then all good.
Gotcha. Thanks. I’d say if you can power window manually with a power probe or something this will determine if it’s a control or actuator issue.
Struggling to understand this sentence. Please clarify.
Short/open position switch circuit as required. Ideally confirm status via live data but dash will also report, of course.
Mechanical parking brake?
Did you use a pressure bleeder?
Not done one for a while I’m pleased to say...this’ll be the one with the torx that secures the reservoir faces into the body...?...
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