Have the same problem with the '98 version of the same car, the dealer always gives me the smaller version whenever I go and get some oil which I end up chucking as its of no use.
You'd have thought they know the difference as I always give them my reg/chassis number.:asskicking:
Well impressed with the suggested technique as I know have a bit more heat than before. I found the "bleed hole" which is located on the left matrix pipe.
The trick was to unscrew the 3 screws attaching the expansion tank and then raising it slightly higher so that the fluid can gravitate...
Sounds quite practical and straight forward, but did'nt notice any holes in any of the pipes the last time I took both rubber hoses off.
(I'm assuming the heater matrix pipes referred to are the 2 metal ones that stick out from the bulkhead with one slightly warmer than the other when...
I had the same thought but trying to avoid taking it back to the stealers should in case they try to bleed my wallet again.
Also looked for bleeding holes on the pipework as seen written in a previous post but dont think the '98 1.8ts has them.
Got a similar problem and was wondering if the above theory would still be correct based on the below info:
1. Stat changed a few months ago with timing belt and water pump
2. Temp guage hits 90 deg gradually and stays there when engine is running
3. Flushed heater matrix with garden hose...
Just installed a set of Rainbows as replacements to the Nokia oem's using the Maystar adapter which enables a perfect fit.
As mentioned above, its important that they are flush which is why is used a thin layer of the self sticking "draught excluder" normally used on dble glazing which can...
Sorry for the late post as i've been offline for a while.
Not sure whether the above link works but you can place it in your URL to see the exact kit i'm reffering to which I purchased at the same price.
Andy may know...
Without hijacking your post, just to let you know that I've just upgraded all my Concert HU and have a 2 month old Xcarlink + bluetooth kit for sale if interested.
Also, I cant emphasize enough how the addition of a sub improves the music.
I'm assuming your Infinity's are in the front, If so are they 5.25cm and what brackets/spacers did you use for the fit?
I've got a monobloc amp for the sub and currently running the rears of a seperate amp which I think is of no benefit. Was hoping to achieve a bit more quality...
Its a 98 1.8t saloon.
Not opened the door cards yet cos i know the clips will have to be replaced but assuming it will have the same o'l c*ap nokia speakers like the rears.
JUst dont want to rip the rainbows with the amp.
Just got delivery of a set of Rainbow SLX 230's for a custom fit as the Alpine HU (4 x 50w) blew the OEM mid woofer by the lower door.
Wondering whether they will be fine running off the HU or should I get them amped as I have a spare Alpine 2 x 150w sitting in the boot currently...
I hope you get it resolved Doc as I've kinda respected the advice and views from both you guy's over the years i've been a member.
Its pretty natural for the guys on the forum to form their own opinion's when they dont hear from the other party but lets just hope its for an EXPLAINABLE reason.
I know how you feel once completed a big job like that but I would be so gutted if I did it myself and something went wrong.
However, i'm gonna try changing the heater matrix myself as worse case scenario i'll have no heat for a while.
Yep, the water pump is a must - picked it up last night and realised that they also changed the water pump belt for £7.50 but forgot to put it on the bill. The guy at the workshop said there was nothing wrong with the old water pump but still insisted it was a good change as there was only about...
Rang up for a quote on getting this done at my local stealership and was quoted £750.00 all in. Rang another one cos they couldnt fit me in this week and was quoted £395.70 for the same job.
Could'nt believe it so dropped it off yesterday with the hope of picking it up after work today...