Ignitron ECU

Thanks DesertStorm.
I copied your suggested turbo map and wrote it to iECU before leaving work.
On my way home the outlet turbo silicone pipe blow off:confusion:
So I turned off the output for the turbo in the iECU and drove her home.
Removed pipe, it looks like it has splits or cracks in it and clamp is also scrap, so I will order a new one tonight.
Any suggested model?
Is there any other pipes know to fail that should be replaced or inspected for peace of mind.
Thanks
 
LOL there was only 0.1 bar more boost that's only 1.5PSI . I have the original K04 outlet pipe still on my car running 2.2 bar and it works fine. Was yours the original pinky red flurosilicone pipe? It gets pretty hot which is why they have a protective silver cover.
Is it this pipe?
DSCN1072.JPG
 
Same one bud, but mine is knackered. got some slits and crackes.
Maybe why boost was also falling off at higher revs.
I have ordered a forge one and will put some insulation around as well.
Wow, 2.2 bar, you must have a permanent smile on your face. what is iECU reporting as HP and torque
would like to see a 3rd gear log.
How accurate is iECU on power and torque?
Have a great weekend and enjoy the rugby, if you are into that.
Upload 2021 2 5 18 14 18
 
TrueSoft said:
How accurate is iECU on power and torque?
Click to expand...

It is just as accurate as your VE map. Power and torque are estimated based on that.
If your STFT is negative on full throttle you can be sure that the power figures ECU calculate are too high.
Have you cleared the fault codes?
 
I took it out for a run this afternoon having a play with the rev matching. Not something I can really do on the drive revving the car at 6000 rpm would attract to much attention from the neighbours. I spent some time setting that up and for some unknown reason the map settings for that seemed to have reverted to the standard map. I did write it as well 2 or three times.
Anyway tried out the new toy I bought hopefully, will assist with tuning the car. Tried a bit of an acceleration run but the private road I was on is not used a lot and the grip was very poor. Only ran it on map3 at 2 bar max . Loads of wheelspin in first had to lift a bit to get some traction . Not really rushing the gear changes and didn't bother with anti lag managed a pedestrian 4.26s 0-60 .

0 60 main screen


0 60 speed breakdown

This was the Ignitron log for that run. Makes low 500bhp on the dyno so power and torque readings are ball park.

Upload 2021 2 6 1 7 40
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3AMJ
hydro s3 said:
What app are you using for that @desertstorm? I've tried a few 0-60 using the colour mfa but not sure how accurate that is.
Click to expand...
It's a Dragy. They are very accurate ,In back to back tests within a few hundredths of V-Box and various other pretty expensive loggers.
 
4.2 seconds is very promising though Karl, be interesting to see what it’ll do on a dry day. Should be in the 3’s easily. How many gear changes to get to 60mph? Still having to tuck into 3rd I’m guessing?

Ignore that, I’ve just checked your ECU log 61mph in 3rd. So still hitting 60mph in 2nd..... nice!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
WOW !! That's what I want my engine to do, reliably.
I can see why you said pedestrian, your gear changes where very smooth.
Conditions where not best and you got an easy 4.2.
Would you expect a 3.5s if you wanted to stress your engine and box out. :sadlike:
Would like to know what your engine spec's are
I have just order the JE 82.5mm pistons and Rods off Badger5.
I did shop around first but he was offering a competitive price.
Besides he has given me enough telephone support answering my newbie questions.
Best reply I ever "had was "The iECU is absolutely brilliant, but not idiot proof"
My Forge silicone outlet pipe arrived today and just finished fitting, Looking forward drive tomorrow.
I will clear all faults before setting off and be taking a log, not of a 0-60 as it would take too long.
 
  • Like
Reactions: desertstorm
I have the 82.5mm JE pistons and Hurricane rods in my car. There is a build thread for the car with everything I have done.
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/mk1-tt-225-track-day-car-tts-dsg-gearbox-upgraded.319422/
With some decent traction and a few goes at it I think 0-60 could be something like 3.6-3.7 seconds. It will just manage 60 in second so there is only 1 gear change which helps. When the DSG gearbox is in and I can get the launch control working I suspect that will knock a few tenths off so low 3's are the target.
 
Was so looking forward to trip to work today after fitting outlet pipe.
Took drive really easy, keeping boost and RPM down until car warmed up.
Had a Skoda right up main street, so I gave it a bit but nothing happened, boost only got to 9 psi.
The iECU is such a fab tool, I knew I had made a mistake with fitting pipe.
I let him drive passed and pulled over to investigate.
turned of engine and felt around pipe. first thing I noticed was pipe was on but felt cold, even turbo was cold.
I thought pipe was fitted well.
Started engine and felt around in the cold and sensed there was blowing from the dump valve side from the charge pipe right next to the valve clamp.
cut an 1/2"off it and reconnected the pipe.
Seems to have done the trick.
I suspect I now may have more leaks
P.S X002 checksum error is still present
Thanks
 
Hi it's looking better. There are a few things that need sorting I think. Try changing the throttle pedal map from comfortable to Race. You will find the car picks up a lot better.
It's like this at the moment.
Upload 2021 2 10 20 5 31


Use the base file wizard selected from the file tab, Its the top option.

Upload 2021 2 10 20 7 52

You then untick everything you don't want to change. So untick all except the bottom option specify throttle response. You currently have comfortable
Select the other option

Upload 2021 2 10 20 9 29


And apply the changes on the current file. Save the file with a different name. I quite often update the notes field with the changes I have made so I can keep up with what I have done.
Upload 2021 2 10 20 11 50


Your throttle map now looks something like this.

Upload 2021 2 10 20 13 7
 
Thanks bud, I did try this before and it made my engine splutter and burp.
I must doing something wrong.
I will have ago tomorrow and give you an update on slow throttle response.
340bhp. ??? should engine not have bent a rod ???
Turbo seems to be over boosting even at high RPM.
never hit 7000RPM before. should I turn down boost even more:frown: tp be on safe side, enjoying the drive too much at mo to bend a rod
 
I suspect the figures you are seeing are higher than actual. When the IAT's are really low the calculated power does seem a little OTT. The rev limiter is set at 6800 rpm which is about right really for the standard engine so you shouldn't really be revving more than 6800rpm.


Upload 2021 2 10 21 42 9
 
audi upgrades
I was thinking of activating launch control for my highest map. Now I've not messed about with anything yet I was just looking advice on it.
Do I just activate it for the preset map i want then put the revs say to 2.5k and then save it and upload to ecu?
 
The easiest way to activate launch contol on a map is to use the base file wizard and select the level of aggresiveness you want. Goes from really tame to World rally car flames and bangs. if you then tick the adjustable RPM box and set some limits the launch RPM is adjustable at any time. When the ignition is turned off. Look at the following video. I set launch control and anti lag just to work in race mode. Of course these kind of things are what can wreck an engine that doesn't have rods in it or has other weaknesses. As long as you stay reasonably sensible you are OK. I have tried some of the anti lag settings and it's like having an AK47 at the back of the car.



Upload 2021 2 11 2 30 47
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
Added a few extra gauges on the tablet mode today. I put a gauge on for turbo%,torque,power. I also put one one for frp but i take it we dont have a sensor for that or oil pressure. I'd like the oil pressure one to work so where do I need to put a sensor so the ecu can read it?
 
Hi Hydro.
Definitely worth doing, I plan to do the same.
From what I can gather depending on your set up you may have a few inputs to connect it too.
Have a look at your analog input table and see what is free.
Upload 2021 2 15 20 38 26

If you are not using a MAF then this the obvious place I would put it at the moment as you have a 5V and a 12V supply on that connector, or so I believe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
hydro s3 said:
Added a few extra gauges on the tablet mode today. I put a gauge on for turbo%,torque,power. I also put one one for frp but i take it we dont have a sensor for that or oil pressure. I'd like the oil pressure one to work so where do I need to put a sensor so the ecu can read it?
Click to expand...

I think you can wire it into the sandwich plate where the oil filter is I was reading into all that a few weeks back for my oil cooler I see some sort of diagram I’ll have to have a look see if print screened it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
audi upgrades
hydro s3 said:
Added a few extra gauges on the tablet mode today. I put a gauge on for turbo%,torque,power. I also put one one for frp but i take it we dont have a sensor for that or oil pressure. I'd like the oil pressure one to work so where do I need to put a sensor so the ecu can read it?
Click to expand...

I think you can wire it into the sandwich plate where the oil filter is I was reading into all that a few weeks back for my oil cooler I see some sort of diagram I’ll have to have a look see if print screened it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
hydro s3 said:
Added a few extra gauges on the tablet mode today. I put a gauge on for turbo%,torque,power. I also put one one for frp but i take it we dont have a sensor for that or oil pressure. I'd like the oil pressure one to work so where do I need to put a sensor so the ecu can read it?
Click to expand...

d204af41624313c4edb0b6aa0e0d56e6.jpg

Something like this goes into where the oil pressure sensor goes then the sensor goes into the female I’m guessing you can run oil temp and pressure from the 2 npt female bits are? Someone tell me if this is right or wrong this was only abit of research I done as I’m thinking of doing this too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There is an M10 x 1 oil pressure test point on the top of the oil filter housing this is a good place for an oil temp sensor. Pressure measured here is always a lot higher as it's pre filter and doesn't see the pressure drop from the 4.5 bar pressure limiter.
Best place to measure pressure is where the oil pressure switch is.
Something like this will work with a n 1/8th npt sensor. oil pressure switch is an M10 X 1
UNIVERSAL OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTOR T PIECE FOR 1/8NPT GAUGES / SENDERS | eBay
If the pressure sensor you have is on the larger size there isn't that much room so you can fit them remotely using one of these.

UNIVERSAL REMOTE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTOR T PIECE FOR 1/8NPT GAUGES / SENDERS | eBay
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
desertstorm said:
There is an M10 x 1 oil pressure test point on the top of the oil filter housing this is a good place for an oil temp sensor. Pressure measured here is always a lot higher as it's pre filter and doesn't see the pressure drop from the 4.5 bar pressure limiter.
Best place to measure pressure is where the oil pressure switch is.
Something like this will work with a n 1/8th npt sensor. oil pressure switch is an M10 X 1
UNIVERSAL OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTOR T PIECE FOR 1/8NPT GAUGES / SENDERS | eBay
If the pressure sensor you have is on the larger size there isn't that much room so you can fit them remotely using one of these.

UNIVERSAL REMOTE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTOR T PIECE FOR 1/8NPT GAUGES / SENDERS | eBay
Click to expand...

BOOM^


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Had anyone noticed when starting the car after having the ECU fitted that it take a few turn overs before it starts?
I've been thinking that's it's just a setting like priming oil pressure, or fuel pressure. Would I be right in thinking that?
It never did this before, it would start 1st key turn.
 
There is an option in Ignitron to delay start-up before a certain oil pressure is reached:
 
That is exactly the same way mine starts. I assume Bill must have set it up like that which is a good safety feature to have.
I'll hook up the laptop later and have a look and see.
 
If I want a delayed start I just plant my foot on the accelerator when I try and start it.
Ignitron has a flush feature enabled as default. If you have more than 50% accelerator when you try and start the engine it stops fuel being injected or sparks being produced. This is supposed to clear the engine if it has flooded. Also very useful after you have changed the oil or had the engine apart and you want it to turn over without starting. Instead of pulling the plugs or disconnecting the injectors just give it more than 50% throttle,

Upload 2021 2 19 20 54 22
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
My Standard internal car is going like stink with iECU.
Got 342BHP at minus 6 degrees C.
Now getting on average 320 out according to iECU.
Do I need these Pistons and Rods I have ordered, Hell yes, but STD motor is more than enough of a pleasure to drive.
The iECU is more than great by itself, but mind blowingly spectacular with the help of this forum.
After fitting forged pistons and rods, I plan to use meth injection as my nephew has challenged me on the
Nürburgringin his E36 M3, I have to beat him.
We are hoping to compete in Jun 2022
I have only just done Lambda adaption with max boost to 1.4bar, would like to tune the car better to the Max at this boost pressure without blowing motor.
How do I go about playing with timing to increase performance? I have no knocks recorded on my logs.
Should I enable the VVT?
Many thanks
 
Bill has just posted another you tube video about boost tuning and timing corrections, It's a bit of a marathon. Basically with the timing it's a matter of advancing the timing until you see some knock and then maybe ****** it a degree or so. VVT doesn't make that much difference on a K04 car to spool and it won't make any more power at the top end.
You could enable it to something like 4K Rpm .
Upload 2021 2 24 21 23 35


 
It was a very worth while watch and informative watch.
Thanks Bill, I picked up loads of tips.
My integrator Max has never been played with and looks like
Upload 2021 3 1 18 47 28

The required boost has been turned down so that MAP is matching or close to it even though there is a bit of a delay, which I expect.
Thought I had my turbo tuned down and got more bhp than the higher request as it was breathing better.
Maybe need to address with some help or does this apply to larger turbos?
Car I thought was going really well, getting 330bhp reported regularly, of a std engine with K04 and no knocks.
I am waiting for a big one, such as a bent rod:(
when I accelerate slowly to 6500rpm,almost without boost I get knock recorded.
I think this maybe should happen??
I have been playing with the advance map. and change it a few degrees and test.
what I choose to do was copy the map selected
Upload 2021 3 1 19 1 45

and paste it up a scale as such.
Upload 2021 3 1 19 5 14

Take car for a spin, log a pull, and check for knocks. repeat if no knocks detected, and undo if knocks are detected in the log.

Many thanks
 

Attachments

  • upload_2021-3-1_19-2-58.png
    upload_2021-3-1_19-2-58.png
    82.4 KB · Views: 123
The only problem with doing what you are by moving the whole map up some ignition timings are being advanced by 4-5 degrees where as others by very little. If you look at the two maps above at 140Kpa at 2400 rpm so 0.4 bar boost it was 9.2 degrees and it's now 13.2 degrees, so you have added 4 degrees of timing. You cannot possibly test all the areas you have affected in a normal test drive. If you see knock at a particular point then just adjust the timing at that point. When you are looking at the logs the yellow dot tells you where you are on the map at that point. So reduce the timing by the amount required to get rid of the knock. If there was 3 degrees of knock then removing 2 -3 degrees will probably stop it.
Look at the timing values around that if they are excessive you may want to reduce those a little as well.
The reason you are seeing knock probably by creeping to high RPM on part throttle is the lower boost areas at high rpm have been increased by greater amounts. I use the expression command and just add 1-2 degrees at a time to specific areas usually at the higher boost areas.
Your intergrator Max setting look strange as it's reversed to what most people have.
So at low RPM mine is 100% and as boost comes in it drops to around 55. Looking at your logs again I didn't notice the wastegate was maxing at 80% at lower RPM.
This could be what is saving your engine at the moment because the wastegate is partially open at low RPM you need to revisit the MAX integrator table.
The wastegate can be fully shut with 100% max intergrator. To get the turbo to spool earlier you need the 100% on the left at low RPM the reduce it at higher RPM as the RPM's increase. If you watch the video that Bill did you can see what he is doing. Big boost spikes at lower RPM are the number one way of bending rods.
This is the 1.4 bar intergrator Max map on my car.
The numbers when the turbo spool will be higher on your map as 1.4 bar is hardly working for a G25-660 and you probably won't want 80% at 3500 as a k04 spools a lot earlier than that.

Upload 2021 3 1 22 55 14
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
ECU?
Replies
8
Views
1K
KonArtist
K
AudiiduA
ECU?
Replies
1
Views
797
Sandip
Sandip
M
ECU
Replies
1
Views
1K
Mickeybhoy67
M
M
ECU
Replies
1
Views
869
h100vw
h100vw
M
ECU
Replies
2
Views
791
Mickeybhoy67
M
Top
Back