Yes mate that is totally true. No point doing half a job might aswell do it right 1st time.
My Belated build thread
- Thread starter S3AMJ
- Start date
At the end of the day the money for a fully built box will be Worth it all day long when youve got a super car power car for sub 20k and the fun that car will bring you will be endless fun specially when you’ve got the hpa controller
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Yeah mate it’ll be really interesting to see how the car reacts haldex wise standard and when a HPA Controller is plugged up. I am secretly excited for the slight wining I’ll get when the semi dog gears are engaged..... just hope it’ll be as quiet as possible when on the motorway doing 70mph haha
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Further update on the gearbox, it’s now fully assembled and the case is ready to be fitted and put into the car. Really stoked, Martin has done an awesome job on this..... for anyone looking into gearbox upgrades he is the man for the job.
Not that I use Facebook, but for anyone that does check him out.
https://m.facebook.com/gasngears/?ref=page_internal&mt_nav=0
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Not that I use Facebook, but for anyone that does check him out.
https://m.facebook.com/gasngears/?ref=page_internal&mt_nav=0
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Few more pictures with the gearbox completed.......
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That looks epic mate. Ha I bet ur really wanting ur car back now. How much power do you think or does Martin say the box could cope with?
Not going to lie, can’t wait to get into it, run it in and see what it’ll do on that G30-770. A couple friends of mine are wanting to do a road trip to Germany in March with there (Road/Track) cars.
With the steel forks, 4th input shaft modification, 3-6 monster performance gear set I think Martin said it’s pretty solid to around 1000bhp / 800+ ft lbs. I won’t be anywhere near that so it should take anything and everything I throw at it.
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A little project I’ve been working on over Christmas period. I managed to find a genuine AP racing CP5570 big brake kit, which consists of -
330x28mm 2 Piece brake discs
6 Pot AP Racing Calipers
DS2500 pads
Stainless Steel brake lines
This is a “Factory” Big brake kit for our cars, designed to be used on track and road, so the calipers come with an additional dust seal. To buy this new you would be looking at £2900. I managed to get it really cheap, however the chap I bought them off didn’t mention how badly they were corroded. “Good working condition” they were not! Pistons were seized up, clearly hadn’t had any attention given in there ownership. So rather than return them I decided to refurbish them.
This is how they looked before the refurb.
This is what they look like now.
I stripped the entire set apart, removed the bells from the old discs and sent them to a local company to strip back and get hard anodised again. There is a little bit of pitted in the bells but I’m sure they’ll be fine.
I replaced the discs with Reyland J Hook 330x28mm and used Genuine AP Racing 25mm bell/disc bolts torqued up to 15nm.
I had bought a little ultrasonic cleaning machine and put literally everything in it to be deep cleaned, which worked fairly well.
Worth there weight in gold, simply fill with water, I used a glass container, put the bolts, nuts, adaptors, the lot into the container and filled with a degreaser and after a rust remover. Came up almost like brand new.
I had trouble removing the old bleed screws and some of the pad guide bolts........
At this point I decided to contact someone to have the calipers professional stripped and rebuilt with genuine seals, etc.
I contacted a company called (pro-caliper) based in London. Thomas was a god send, even he was struggling with the pistons in the calipers but came through and put them back together nicely, 2 day turn around!! He usually specialises in Brembo calipers, but he clearly knew what he was doing.
After I got them back I cleaned them up one more time and sanded them down, I repainted them with E-Tech XHT black and E-Tech XHT clear coat. Admittedly I did get the misses to paint the yellow recessed AP Racing logo, I don’t have the patients for it nor a steady hand.
Really really pleased with how they turned out.... I’m going to use these this year on a few track days and see how they are, eventually I’ll look to change them with the AP Racing CP9660 brake set up that’s commonly used on BTCC cars, a few members on here use them [mention]desertstorm [/mention] [mention]Prawn [/mention]
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330x28mm 2 Piece brake discs
6 Pot AP Racing Calipers
DS2500 pads
Stainless Steel brake lines
This is a “Factory” Big brake kit for our cars, designed to be used on track and road, so the calipers come with an additional dust seal. To buy this new you would be looking at £2900. I managed to get it really cheap, however the chap I bought them off didn’t mention how badly they were corroded. “Good working condition” they were not! Pistons were seized up, clearly hadn’t had any attention given in there ownership. So rather than return them I decided to refurbish them.
This is how they looked before the refurb.
This is what they look like now.
I stripped the entire set apart, removed the bells from the old discs and sent them to a local company to strip back and get hard anodised again. There is a little bit of pitted in the bells but I’m sure they’ll be fine.
I replaced the discs with Reyland J Hook 330x28mm and used Genuine AP Racing 25mm bell/disc bolts torqued up to 15nm.
I had bought a little ultrasonic cleaning machine and put literally everything in it to be deep cleaned, which worked fairly well.
Worth there weight in gold, simply fill with water, I used a glass container, put the bolts, nuts, adaptors, the lot into the container and filled with a degreaser and after a rust remover. Came up almost like brand new.
I had trouble removing the old bleed screws and some of the pad guide bolts........
At this point I decided to contact someone to have the calipers professional stripped and rebuilt with genuine seals, etc.
I contacted a company called (pro-caliper) based in London. Thomas was a god send, even he was struggling with the pistons in the calipers but came through and put them back together nicely, 2 day turn around!! He usually specialises in Brembo calipers, but he clearly knew what he was doing.
After I got them back I cleaned them up one more time and sanded them down, I repainted them with E-Tech XHT black and E-Tech XHT clear coat. Admittedly I did get the misses to paint the yellow recessed AP Racing logo, I don’t have the patients for it nor a steady hand.
Really really pleased with how they turned out.... I’m going to use these this year on a few track days and see how they are, eventually I’ll look to change them with the AP Racing CP9660 brake set up that’s commonly used on BTCC cars, a few members on here use them [mention]desertstorm [/mention] [mention]Prawn [/mention]
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Thanks Rainbird, appreciate the compliment. By the way Epic result with Prawn Racing, well done to you all. Looking forward to seeing what 2021 brings for you guys.
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Gearbox and brakes look really good. Not sure I would like to put 800Lb/ft through it, still has stock first and second gears but I am sure it will stand up to pretty much anything you are likely to throw at it. DS2500 pads are not the best on track as I am sure you are aware, See how they go on the road and maybe try something better for the track.
Thanks dude, I would have liked them to be powdercoated ideally. But because of the AP Racing recessed logo, no one wanted to touch them?! They turned out a lot better than I thought they would.
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Thanks Karl, yeah I’m guessing if you went full 1-6 monster performance gear set then it’s a safer bet, I think monster performance do drag racing primarily so lots of very hard launches. I don’t intend to launch the car everywhere, even with most things covered in my build, things are still liable to break for sure.
One of the reasons why I bought these AP racing calipers was for the ease of swapping out the pads, I’ve run DS2500 on the road for a few years and have been pretty good, but your quite right..... so I could easily swap out the DS2500’s for something more suitable for the track.
Any suggestions what pads you’ve found to be good for track? I have eyed up a set of Pagid RS29’s but I think they are similar to the DS2500. Something that bites hard but doesn’t have masses of fallout
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RS29 is on a different level to DS2500. That is what I was running in mt RS3 4 pot calipers with the V6 334X32mm discs and they were very good. Pad life not quite as good but stopping power was excellent.
Interesting you say that mate, did you notice them squealing at all at low speeds? Apparently there really good at slowing you down but not stopping if you catch my drift. It shouldn’t matter too much on the track, just if I left them in for a drive home or something after a track day.
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Anyone had any experience with DS1.11’s or DSUNO’s for track and road? Reason why I ask, apparently if you use Ferodo DS range when you swapping the pads out for road use or track you don’t have to re-bed them in.
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For anyone wondering what my Gas&Gears (02M FEK) gearbox ratios are...... also my anticipated speeds at 8200rpm redline this of course depends on how the G30-770 reacts, if there is room to move the redline out more or less. This is also based on a wheel and tyre size of 245/40/18
1st 3.818 (42 mph)
2nd 2.105 (76 mph)
3rd 1.533 (104 mph)
4th 1.176 (136 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.938
5th 1.176 (169 mph)
6th 1.000 (199 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.150
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (34 mph)
2-3 (28 mph)
3-4 (32 mph)
4-5 (33 mph)
5-6 (30 mph)
If compared to a normal S3 02M gearbox these ratios are only slightly shorter in the 3-6 monster performance gears. However they are longer with the diesel gearbox final drive ratios.
Standard S3 02M gearbox ratios at 8200rpm
1st 3.417 (44 mph)
2nd 2.105 (71 mph)
3rd 1.429 (105 mph)
4th 1.088 (137 mph)
Final drive ratio 4.200
5th 1.097 (173 mph)
6th 0.912 (208 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.316
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (27 mph)
2-3 (34 mph)
3-4 (32 mph)
4-5 (36 mph)
5-6 (35 mph)
If I were to use the S3 02M gearbox final drive ratios at 8200rpm it would be like this.
1st 3.417 (44 mph)
2nd 2.105 (71 mph)
3rd 1.533 (97 mph)
4th 1.176 (127 mph)
Final drive ratio 4.200
5th 1.176 (161 mph)
6th 1.000 (189 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.316
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (27 mph)
2-3 (26 mph)
3-4 (30 mph)
4-5 (34 mph)
5-6 (28 mph)
With these final drive ratios you’ll be changing gear like a mad man which was one of the main reasons why I choose to use the taller final drives from the diesel gearbox. Also when doing 70 mph on the motorway I’ll be cruising at 2850rpm instead of 3050rpm with the original S3 final drive ratios.
You’ll notice that the 1st gear I’ve used from the diesel gearbox is actually shorter than the original S3 gearbox. However the 2nd gear is taller, this will eliminate having to change into 3rd gear to reach 60 mph. This should make a huge difference to the 0 - 60 seconds and on the track as it’ll mean less gear changes hopefully.
1st 3.818 (42 mph)
2nd 2.105 (76 mph)
3rd 1.533 (104 mph)
4th 1.176 (136 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.938
5th 1.176 (169 mph)
6th 1.000 (199 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.150
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (34 mph)
2-3 (28 mph)
3-4 (32 mph)
4-5 (33 mph)
5-6 (30 mph)
If compared to a normal S3 02M gearbox these ratios are only slightly shorter in the 3-6 monster performance gears. However they are longer with the diesel gearbox final drive ratios.
Standard S3 02M gearbox ratios at 8200rpm
1st 3.417 (44 mph)
2nd 2.105 (71 mph)
3rd 1.429 (105 mph)
4th 1.088 (137 mph)
Final drive ratio 4.200
5th 1.097 (173 mph)
6th 0.912 (208 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.316
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (27 mph)
2-3 (34 mph)
3-4 (32 mph)
4-5 (36 mph)
5-6 (35 mph)
If I were to use the S3 02M gearbox final drive ratios at 8200rpm it would be like this.
1st 3.417 (44 mph)
2nd 2.105 (71 mph)
3rd 1.533 (97 mph)
4th 1.176 (127 mph)
Final drive ratio 4.200
5th 1.176 (161 mph)
6th 1.000 (189 mph)
Final drive ratio 3.316
MPH between gear changes
1-2 (27 mph)
2-3 (26 mph)
3-4 (30 mph)
4-5 (34 mph)
5-6 (28 mph)
With these final drive ratios you’ll be changing gear like a mad man which was one of the main reasons why I choose to use the taller final drives from the diesel gearbox. Also when doing 70 mph on the motorway I’ll be cruising at 2850rpm instead of 3050rpm with the original S3 final drive ratios.
You’ll notice that the 1st gear I’ve used from the diesel gearbox is actually shorter than the original S3 gearbox. However the 2nd gear is taller, this will eliminate having to change into 3rd gear to reach 60 mph. This should make a huge difference to the 0 - 60 seconds and on the track as it’ll mean less gear changes hopefully.
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After much research and watching [mention]Prawn [/mention] review I’ve decided to get a set of CBAutos (Paul) rear 300mm bells and caliper adaptors for the back of my car. Took a little while for them to get to me. All put together on some Wilwood UL32 non handed 298x20.57mm discs. Would have liked some nice J hooks to match the fronts, only seem to be AP Racing that do them but they are around £130 each! Where as the Wilwoods were £57 for the pair from demon tweaks.
Really impressed with the quality. Look forward to getting them on the car when I get it back from Badger5
I’m looking at options for change the rear caliper as well, but I’ll see how these fair on the track in March all being well.
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Really impressed with the quality. Look forward to getting them on the car when I get it back from Badger5
I’m looking at options for change the rear caliper as well, but I’ll see how these fair on the track in March all being well.
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Wow..... well, 3 months since my last post. Not a huge amount has been going on because of lockdowns, brexit, work, moving house and so on. With Badger5 having been up against it trying to clear a backlog of projects. Which is of course great to see this business booming in these difficult times.
Some good news though, I soon will be able to post up some progress. My car is up next on the projects list at Badger5.
Some little things I’ve been working on in the background that I can post up......
My 3-6 Monster Performance gearbox degreased, masked and acid etch primed. I have marine epoxy painted this in a grey similar to nardo grey. I’ll post up some more pictures of this next weekend. I think it turned out quite well, see what you guys think next week
My 3.5” Zinram exhaust was made fairly well for £700 delivered! However for what ever reason they decided to use some aggressively clamped bits of pipe for the tailpipe...... with the use of some scotch pads, then wet/dry sandpaper 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit it was getting much better, getting rid of the deep clamp marks and scratches.
I then set up my bench grinder with a polish mop wheel using a course black compound used for stainless steel.
Then after a few rounds of that I used a felt wheel with white fine compound and it’s turned out better than I expected. This is my first attempt at polishing metal, lots of YouTube research as usual went into it beforehand.
You can see the difference between the polished tailpipe tips and the original untouched 3.5” section of it. Very pleased with the results.
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Some good news though, I soon will be able to post up some progress. My car is up next on the projects list at Badger5.
Some little things I’ve been working on in the background that I can post up......
My 3-6 Monster Performance gearbox degreased, masked and acid etch primed. I have marine epoxy painted this in a grey similar to nardo grey. I’ll post up some more pictures of this next weekend. I think it turned out quite well, see what you guys think next week
My 3.5” Zinram exhaust was made fairly well for £700 delivered! However for what ever reason they decided to use some aggressively clamped bits of pipe for the tailpipe...... with the use of some scotch pads, then wet/dry sandpaper 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit it was getting much better, getting rid of the deep clamp marks and scratches.
I then set up my bench grinder with a polish mop wheel using a course black compound used for stainless steel.
Then after a few rounds of that I used a felt wheel with white fine compound and it’s turned out better than I expected. This is my first attempt at polishing metal, lots of YouTube research as usual went into it beforehand.
You can see the difference between the polished tailpipe tips and the original untouched 3.5” section of it. Very pleased with the results.
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So today’s mission was to sort out a rocker cover I had bought as a back up as I’m still in two minds if I’m gonna run a AGN rocker cover or this one which is an unusual rocker cover that only came on Audi A4 1.8 20V NA and possibly a Passat.
As you can see I had my work cut out for me..... this was in a right state! Needless to say I whipped out the good old OvenBrite kit and left it in the bag over night.
Gave it a rinse off and strapped it to my work bench, there were quite a few things sticking out of this rocker cover I didn’t want so I went about cutting and grinding things off.
One of the things I had to cut out were where the original plug in spark plug leads went as we use coilpacks on our cars, for some reason Audi decided to use a coilpack amplifier on one side which then had the two leads that plugged into the spark plugs on the other side....... anyway, they had to go.
Once I cut everything off I went over everything with a wire wheel, then scotch pads and 320grit sandpaper to smooth everything out.
Drilled out 2 holes for my AN10 weld on fittings, I was thinking of different places to put them but this was the obvious choice.
Fairly please with how it’s turned out, I’m going to be doing a few more things yet before it gets painted and potentially put on the car. Planning on making a cover which covers the coilpacks so it’ll be very minimal looking.
Here is a before and after side by side
Ignore the insulating tape I’ve put there holding the AN10 fittings in place.
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As you can see I had my work cut out for me..... this was in a right state! Needless to say I whipped out the good old OvenBrite kit and left it in the bag over night.
Gave it a rinse off and strapped it to my work bench, there were quite a few things sticking out of this rocker cover I didn’t want so I went about cutting and grinding things off.
One of the things I had to cut out were where the original plug in spark plug leads went as we use coilpacks on our cars, for some reason Audi decided to use a coilpack amplifier on one side which then had the two leads that plugged into the spark plugs on the other side....... anyway, they had to go.
Once I cut everything off I went over everything with a wire wheel, then scotch pads and 320grit sandpaper to smooth everything out.
Drilled out 2 holes for my AN10 weld on fittings, I was thinking of different places to put them but this was the obvious choice.
Fairly please with how it’s turned out, I’m going to be doing a few more things yet before it gets painted and potentially put on the car. Planning on making a cover which covers the coilpacks so it’ll be very minimal looking.
Here is a before and after side by side
Ignore the insulating tape I’ve put there holding the AN10 fittings in place.
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So there isn't a breather at all on that rocker cover. I would try and keep the breathers away from anywhere that oil could be splashing around. Above the intake cam plastic covers but not too close to the cam chain at the VVT end of the head.
So similar to where I’ve placed them then dude
I was going to stagger them which meant the pipes could run inline better, but the fittings would be to close to the inner walls of the rocker cover. This rocker I think was one of the first iterations they made, then it progressed from there. It’s no AGN rocker cover, but it’s more available. Alex from Badger5 is working on my AGN rocker cover for me making it nice and pretty with the AN10 breathers.
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Something I’ve been toying with getting for a long time and as I’ve got a few small projects coming up including fabricating stuff for the car, I finally gave in..... fed up of trying to drill straight, after loads of research I decided to get a “proper” pillar drill.
It’s a Bosch PBD40. The build quality for what I paid for it is incredible! Nice safety features, a laser guide, digital depth gauge, vice the lot.
Has a speed and thickness graph of steel and aluminium shows what’s the optimum speed is for drilling.
Has a simple switch for changing between 2 gears depending on the size of the drill bit your using.
Comes in 3 pieces and it’s all put together with 1 meaty grub screw. I’ll be trying it out once I’ve had some materials delivered!
All I need to do now is learn how to weld properly and I’d be sorted! I’ve done arc welding on 10mm steel before back in the day but nothing delicate..... learning how to MIG weld is the dream.
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It’s a Bosch PBD40. The build quality for what I paid for it is incredible! Nice safety features, a laser guide, digital depth gauge, vice the lot.
Has a speed and thickness graph of steel and aluminium shows what’s the optimum speed is for drilling.
Has a simple switch for changing between 2 gears depending on the size of the drill bit your using.
Comes in 3 pieces and it’s all put together with 1 meaty grub screw. I’ll be trying it out once I’ve had some materials delivered!
All I need to do now is learn how to weld properly and I’d be sorted! I’ve done arc welding on 10mm steel before back in the day but nothing delicate..... learning how to MIG weld is the dream.
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Looks quality mate. What other mods are you planning
I like hearing other people's projects lol
I like hearing other people's projects lol
Making brackets and so on mate, I’m going to “attempted” to get all the covers to fit over everything to be OEM+ like @Tuffty did before his engine transplant. That and I’m making my own coilpack spacer to go on that rocker cover I’ve been working on, plus a cover to go over the coilpacks to make it look minimalistic.
Moved house recently too so going to be making some bespoke furniture
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So here’s a couple pictures of my 02M 3-6 Monster Performance gearbox as promised
The marine epoxy resin I used should help to keep it clean, smooth surface and being chemical resistant. Has been said that it’ll take temperatures of 150-180’c sooo, should be ok.
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The marine epoxy resin I used should help to keep it clean, smooth surface and being chemical resistant. Has been said that it’ll take temperatures of 150-180’c sooo, should be ok.
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Something I was working on yesterday trialing out my pillar drill to make a coilpack spacer. Which managed it all with ease! Very impressed with it.
Made a template out of 2mm Perspex, making sure I got all the measurements correct.
Once I was happy with the template I made a prototype from 12mm Perspex and test fitted it, all works nicely.
Marked out for the little notches but the CNC drill bits I was needing to do them hadn’t turned up, a normal drill bit would have flexed and would create a nice finish.
All fitted nicely with the recessed holes for the bolts. Once the drill bits turn up I’ll finish it off, smooth the edges and round the corners slightly to make it a little more pleasing to the eye ready for painting.
May even attempt to etch it as well or keep the simple look can’t decide.
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Made a template out of 2mm Perspex, making sure I got all the measurements correct.
Once I was happy with the template I made a prototype from 12mm Perspex and test fitted it, all works nicely.
Marked out for the little notches but the CNC drill bits I was needing to do them hadn’t turned up, a normal drill bit would have flexed and would create a nice finish.
All fitted nicely with the recessed holes for the bolts. Once the drill bits turn up I’ll finish it off, smooth the edges and round the corners slightly to make it a little more pleasing to the eye ready for painting.
May even attempt to etch it as well or keep the simple look can’t decide.
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I wouldn’t say that
I’m learning mate but thank you. I really want to have a crack at MIG or TIG welding and get that sussed. Just like making and designing stuff, usually tinkering for hours in the garden and workshop. It’s what keeps me happy, although not the misses hahaSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn’t say thatI’m learning mate but thank you. I really want to have a crack at MIG or TIG welding and get that sussed. Just like making and designing stuff, usually tinkering for hours in the garden and workshop. It’s what keeps me happy, although not the misses haha
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I can totally understand
I’m a couple years behind you I’d love to learn bits like that I’ve already filled my shed with car bits so need a garage ideally, one day..Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So this happened……
The engine is currently being built by Badger5 with the very grateful help of none other than our ASN resident Tuffty.
Freshly bored block with billet main caps line bored 2.0 TSFI forged crank and hurricane rods mated to JE 83mm stroker pistons.
I’m starting to get tingly sensations all over
I also decided to get my Rota G-Force 9J alloys powdercoated in hyper silver as I wasn’t happy with the original colour, gives the car a little more OEMness back.
Really pleased with how they’ve come out and bought rota silver centre caps to match.
More to follow soon…….
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The engine is currently being built by Badger5 with the very grateful help of none other than our ASN resident Tuffty.
Freshly bored block with billet main caps line bored 2.0 TSFI forged crank and hurricane rods mated to JE 83mm stroker pistons.
I’m starting to get tingly sensations all over
I also decided to get my Rota G-Force 9J alloys powdercoated in hyper silver as I wasn’t happy with the original colour, gives the car a little more OEMness back.
Really pleased with how they’ve come out and bought rota silver centre caps to match.
More to follow soon
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- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
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- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
On the note of things happening... Guess what my job is today 
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
Yes Tuffty! Good man
thank you for your help and support with the build. I’ll see you next week(end) if your about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Another iteration of rocker cover I will stop playing around with these at some point, the guys that welded this one up for me ran into a little trouble and had to reinforce it internally because it cracked on them while it was cooling down……
Anyways, it doesn’t look to bad, while my others are getting powdercoated might drop this one on the engine temporarily.
Can Anyone recommend high level filler paint that will withstand the heat these rocker covers will be taking?
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I will stop playing around with these at some point, the guys that welded this one up for me ran into a little trouble and had to reinforce it internally because it cracked on them while it was cooling down…… Anyways, it doesn’t look to bad, while my others are getting powdercoated might drop this one on the engine temporarily.
Can Anyone recommend high level filler paint that will withstand the heat these rocker covers will be taking?
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Thats good progress mate I'm excited for you. Shouldn't be to long now until ur tearing up those B road's
