Audi A3 8PA BMN 170 intake manifold

mikejclark

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Hi all,
Just got the car back from the garage after trying to diagnose dpf problems. Nothing came up on diagnostics.

He's spotted a build up of carbon on the left side of the engine (see attached photo) and says I need a new intake manifold as it's leaking. Cost of part from Audi is £600+. He suggested finding one on ebay and they can fit it.

After some searches I can see there is plastic and aluminium versions and some have switched from plastic to alu.

Firstly, do I have the plastic or alu version? May seem a silly question as obviously looks plastic but just want to check.

Secondly, how easy is it to remove and is there any instructions? I'll take it off to have a closer look if not too difficult

TIA
IMG 20201215 144914
 
no sorry, but they do a list of other bolts you need in their description
 
Make sure you plug the swirl flap actuator’s vacuum line when you change to the BKD alloy intake
 
Hi,

got the same problem on mine... pressurised the system and left hand side is hissing very load. Car has no boost at all on VCDS.

no fault codes though? Is that
Normal not the trow faults? I disconnected the intercooler hose completely to try and throw a underboost code but nothing. Same with maf unplugged. No code?

could the hissing be the gasket not a broken manifold?

if I replace with aluminium from darkside will
It fail emissions?
 

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Hi,

got the same problem on mine... pressurised the system and left hand side is hissing very load. Car has no boost at all on VCDS.

no fault codes though? Is that
Normal not the trow faults? I disconnected the intercooler hose completely to try and throw a underboost code but nothing. Same with maf unplugged. No code?

could the hissing be the gasket not a broken manifold?

if I replace with aluminium from darkside will
It fail emissions?

you can remove the vacuum hose going to the intake manifold actuator and shove a screw into it to disable it.
 
Update:

I booked it in at a local garage (audi specialist). They advised fitting a new MAF prior to bringing it in as only a maf would cause under boost with no codes. They also stated my compression test is useless as there is an overlap between the inlet and outlet valves meaning it cannot hold pressure. I couldn't figure out why I would be leaking at the manifold if that was the case?

Yesterday I plugged new MAF in with no difference, I then unplugged the Maf cable in effort to force a code, drove it today and was back to full boost, picking up at 2k revs which is better than ever? Used to only pick up at 2.5/3k. I plugged the MAF back in as it was all back to normal. Seems weird the car goes like a rocket with maf disconnected. Only variables since no boost and no boost is the new maf which didnt help the day before and the fact it was cold outisde (4C).

So now I have a working car with a potentially intermittent boost problem and MAF that doesnt make a difference plugged or unplugged. Could a regen cause no boost? No regen status in VCDS though.
 
If the vacuum actuator is leaking all the engine vacuum (non-referring to a manifold air leak), then you will remove the vacuum leak from the system.

therefore the turbo can then use the vacuum to activate. With a vacuum leak the turbo cannot move = zero boost

(Providing it is the actuator on the manifold which is leaking Vacuum since you mentioned you hear the noise at this exact area , which by the way is an extremely common issue)
 
Hi, are you suggesting the lack of turbo boost is a vacuum line issue leaking through the manifold actuator and not a boost leak? The compression test on the manifold is a red herring?

I have a vacuum leak tester I can try. Although boost is back which is weird.
 
Hi, are you suggesting the lack of turbo boost is a vacuum line issue leaking through the manifold actuator and not a boost leak? The compression test on the manifold is a red herring?

I have a vacuum leak tester I can try. Although boost is back which is weird.
Correct