Reyland rear discs350 mm
- Thread starter Luc s1
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Needs the M12 holes drilling out and the back faces spotting to make them level.
Very easy to do.
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Needs the M12 holes drilling out and the back faces spotting to make them level.
Very easy to do.
Thx.. that’s not to difficult
Need to replace the rear pads and I want a upgrade just like my upgrade at the front.
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Thanks for posting this, I had no idea we had to mod the rear carrier
I have the front and rear reyland discs with AP radical 2 calipers I’ll be installing shortly
Just finishing up painting the calipers front and back
I have the front and rear reyland discs with AP radical 2 calipers I’ll be installing shortly
Just finishing up painting the calipers front and back
They look stunning, very nice job!Thanks for posting this, I had no idea we had to mod the rear carrier
I have the front and rear reyland discs with AP radical 2 calipers I’ll be installing shortly
Just finishing up painting the calipers front and back
Thanks mate, I’ve spent a lot of time sanding and filing all the imperfections in the AP moulds, and getting rid of all the dimples and casting marks in the rear calipers to be perfectly smooth to match the fronts
Will post plenty of pics when its all finished
Depending on how it looks, I might end up working with reyland to put together a rear AP caliper kit - I’m used to cars with a proper non-slider rear caliper setup
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I had AP all round on mine so it can be done.
TX.
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Yep I saw that kit from tom, I’ve got it bookmarked somewhere
Ideally I’d want to keep the reyland rear discs so the disc face, hat and even hat hardware match front to back - iirc the reyland rear discs are a slighter different thickness
I had nothing but issues with oe brakes on my og nardo PFL (I had one of the first rs7 rear wave kits on it), multiple warped discs, crumbling pads, so I bought this setup even before the car arrived. If it works, then I’ll put the extra cash in to sort the rear caliper purely for the aesthetics
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there’s a few mm where pad doesn’t make contact with the disc face, not sure if this will leave a rust line after washing the car that won’t rub off from driving - iirc the rs7 rear disc kit on my PFL had the same issue and didn’t
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Absolutely stunning the rs3 is in that colour of purpleYep I saw that kit from tom, I’ve got it bookmarked somewhere
Ideally I’d want to keep the reyland rear discs so the disc face, hat and even hat hardware match front to back - iirc the reyland rear discs are a slighter different thickness
I had nothing but issues with oe brakes on my og nardo PFL (I had one of the first rs7 rear wave kits on it), multiple warped discs, crumbling pads, so I bought this setup even before the car arrived. If it works, then I’ll put the extra cash in to sort the rear caliper purely for the aesthetics
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there’s a few mm where pad doesn’t make contact with the disc face, not sure if this will leave a rust line after washing the car that won’t rub off from driving - iirc the rs7 rear disc kit on my PFL had the same issue and didn’t
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Is there any benefit to having J-Hook grooves over say C-hook (Revo style) or slots etc?
I ask as J hook seems to be the most popular option.
Doubt it matters what shape they are, groves are just there to dissipate gas so more of the pad surface area makes contact with the disc face
I’d be more concerned about where these brands are sourcing their brake components - I personally wouldn’t put Chinese made rebranded aftermarket discs on my car
I’d be more concerned about where these brands are sourcing their brake components - I personally wouldn’t put Chinese made rebranded aftermarket discs on my car
Most popular because BTCC use them, as do many other racing series, and we all like to mimic racing cars
But, according to AP:
When you cut a slot or drill a hole in a disc you impact heat transfer. The area around the slot or hole acts as a cool spot when the disc heats up, which is not ideal. Ideally, heat is distributed uniformly around the disc so it can be hit with the cooling air that is pumping through the disc, radiate outwards away from the disc, etc. Cool spots create stress risers and increase the likelihood of the disc cracking. They also cause the face of the disc to distort unevenly, leading to uneven pad deposits, vibration, and judder.
The OEM discs avoid this problem by simply leaving the face blank. While the risk for NVH goes down, so does the pad bite and feel of the disc through the brake pedal. Competitive aftermarket offerings typically have straight slots, which tend to leave cool spots across the disc face between the slots.
During exhaustive R&D testing, AP's J Hook design was found to create a constant pathway of evenly distorted material on the face of the disc. The hooks are spaced out as evenly as possible both around the circumference of the disc, as well as from the inside edge (where the hat attaches) to outer edge, with a slight overlap to promote even heat distribution/distortion. In addition to reducing cracking, the even heating of the disc also helps provide an even transfer layer of pad material on the disc when you bed them in.
Additionally, the J Hook slot pattern produces a greater number of leading edges for the pads to bite into vs. a traditional curved slot pattern, and particularly a plain-faced disc. While this may lead to slightly more whirring or scraping noises from the discs when applying the brakes, the benefits of more even heat distribution, less propensity to crack, cleaner pad material transfer during bed-in, and more bite far outweigh the slight increase in NVH for the serious enthusiast.
The OEM discs avoid this problem by simply leaving the face blank. While the risk for NVH goes down, so does the pad bite and feel of the disc through the brake pedal. Competitive aftermarket offerings typically have straight slots, which tend to leave cool spots across the disc face between the slots.
During exhaustive R&D testing, AP's J Hook design was found to create a constant pathway of evenly distorted material on the face of the disc. The hooks are spaced out as evenly as possible both around the circumference of the disc, as well as from the inside edge (where the hat attaches) to outer edge, with a slight overlap to promote even heat distribution/distortion. In addition to reducing cracking, the even heating of the disc also helps provide an even transfer layer of pad material on the disc when you bed them in.
Additionally, the J Hook slot pattern produces a greater number of leading edges for the pads to bite into vs. a traditional curved slot pattern, and particularly a plain-faced disc. While this may lead to slightly more whirring or scraping noises from the discs when applying the brakes, the benefits of more even heat distribution, less propensity to crack, cleaner pad material transfer during bed-in, and more bite far outweigh the slight increase in NVH for the serious enthusiast.
