Oil pressure warning BUL

Tooty_Fruity

Tooty_Fruity

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Yesterday was supposed to be a good day.
I dropped in to MRC in Banbury to discuss some work to the DTM and left with a positive feeling even though I new it would be costly.
On my drive back home down the M40, the dreaded low oil pressure warning light came on. I was able to get off quickly up the slip road and turned into a side road where I stopped the car... but it seems a bit too late as the engine sounded rough, I would describe it as a clacking sound.
I have that sinking feeling and am expecting the worse.
So the question is to you guys, where would you take it? who would you trust? Any recommendations?
Specialists, Tuners for the 2.0tfsi not the local independents please.
MRC are backed up at the moment.
I am in the Reading area although South Ox, Berkshire, Surrey would work.
Toot.
 
Amd Technik in Woking, Simon, he's a good chap.
 
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I think you will find most are really busy to be honest.
 
It's also a marmite job to undertake given the damage that can be done, although you maybe lucky it being just a pump.
 
Lucky has never been a word that relates to me.
Thanks for the contact though, Ill give Simon a call.
Toot.
 
Sorry to read your problem, what is the mileage on the car? does it have service history.
I feel you pain, it's a worry to all of us really, I was thinking of getting the oil pump modification done to stop the balancer failing,
after reading about your visit to MRC it would have been more devastating if it was being mapped.
 
That's not the reply I expected, that's low mileage! and very concerning really,
but it's strange that some cars have done over 100,000 miles and still going, and a few like yourself have had oil problems,
There are write ups on this on the forum about oil problems on these engines.
Let's hope it's not to bad and you can get going again, please keep us updated if you can we always like to no the out come.
What year is your car?
 
A lot of the problem stem from the long life service schedule.
Oil quality breaks down very quickly in these engines , add that to cars that don't get used much with a history of short trips just adds to the problem.
Sludge forms quite quickly in under used cars, the engine just doesn't get up to temp or if they do its not for long , oil ways gets clogged etc and problems slowly start to form.
The oil suction pipe can get clogged very easily aswell with thick oil that's beyond it best , which lead to problem we've all seen .
regular oil and filter changes are crucial to a healthy tfsi engine, every 6k is good , the cleaner you keep the oil the better.

It's not the only reason for engine failure in our engines as there are other known issues but poor oil quality added to the longlife schedule are known as a root cause of so many probs.

these engine need to be used and used properly, get them hot , give them some welly , just pootling around to the station and back or to te shops etc is not the way to go.
 
Well said Rob, well going by your post, I'm on borrowed time as not doing the miles now.
But I change the oil and well before it's due, and never used long life service.
Can only hope for the best.
 
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Picked my car up on 103k (I think) it just had a full engine rebuild a month before I bought it and up to that rebuild it was always serviced on time at main dealer so I guess when its time its time regardless of miles or service history, one of the main issues is the oil pick up pipe and probably one of the main cause for most of the engine failures.
 
There is nothing wrong with the original suction pipe , the problem arises when it get's blocked and flow is restricted as there is no bypass on the original pipe to help oil circulation.
If you reduce the chances of it becoming blocked that's half the battle.
My engine still has the original part and its a new short motor.
If you were to read a lot of the engine failures they were not down to the suction pipe itslf but a clogged mesh through sludge and fine particulates.
 
I had the problem with the engine oil presure light ,but didn't get any problems from engine . The issue was that wrong oil grade! I get it fixed with 5/30 quantum oil. Only oil light comes when driving aggressive higher revs. Slow down and oil light goes of. 2.0 TFSI SE quattro BUL engine
 
Not anymore. Was when have wrong oil grade in the engine. This happened in summer 2019.
 
Running a slightly different grade of engine oil wont be the cause of the engine light coming on.
I run w40 ester based oil and have been for a few years now, no issues at all , slightly less oil consumption too compared to w30 oil.

If you had an oil light issue with thicker oil that may suggest your oil ways or suction pipe is struggling to get the flow , possibly oil pump worn aswell.
the difference between w30 and w40 from a flow point of view is not a great deal, well not enough to cause an oil light.
 
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I'm Just Rob. said:
Running a slightly different grade of engine oil wont be the cause of the engine light coming on.
I run 40w ester based oil and have been for a few years now, no issues at all , slightly less oil consumption too compared to 30w oil.

If you had an oil light issue with thicker oil that may suggest your oil ways or suction pipe is struggling to get the flow , possibly oil pump worn aswell.
the difference between 30w and 40w from a flow point of view is not a great deal, well not enough to cause an oil light.
Click to expand...
Well I do know what you say ,but since I had the oil drain out, didn't come back that light,and I do drive my car almost every day to go at work and back home most way on motorway traffic and where possible good revs in 3 4 5. But I didn't see that light coming back in my dash. So‍♂️‍♂️
 
5w40 I use in my BUL engine , and I have no issues at all.
Upload 2020 6 21 17 26 45


What were you using when the light was being illuminated, and if it was at higher rpm range that would indicate another problem all together.

Unless you were using something way , way out of the safe operating viscosity range the for the engine changing the oil back to 5w30 from 5w40 won't be the cause of the oil lamp issue, it's possible by draining the oil you may have cleared a blockage but just by changing the oil and the light not coming on now is just coincidental , I'd be more concerned there is another issue to be honest, possibly a faulty sender or presuure switch.

Ideally run vcds or similar and check oil pressure and temp with engine running and compare actual and specified figures.
If you were getting an oil pressure warning at high rpm , something is going on possibly oil pump is worn and/ or not supplying enough oil pressure.
 
Anyway, back to Tooty's issue,
Any progress chap on getting it booked in .
 
I'm Just Rob. said:
5w40 I use in my BUL engine , and I have no issues at all.
View attachment 205173

What were you using when the light was being illuminated, and if it was at higher rpm range that would indicate another problem all together.

Unless you were using something way , way out of the safe operating viscosity range the for the engine changing the oil back to 5w30 from 5w40 won't be the cause of the oil lamp issue, it's possible by draining the oil you may have cleared a blockage but just by changing the oil and the light not coming on now is just coincidental , I'd be more concerned there is another issue to be honest, possibly a faulty sender or presuure switch.

Ideally run vcds or similar and check oil pressure and temp with engine running and compare actual and specified figures.
If you were getting an oil pressure warning at high rpm , something is going on possibly oil pump is worn and/ or not supplying enough oil pressure.
Click to expand...
Where about I can do a check with vcds,for oil presure in what group ? Currently I have a vcds tool!
 
I'll need to plug mine in and double check what group it is, or you can go to "engine" then Advanced Measuring blocks and scroll down the list , you will see oil pressure etc , just tick the boxes you want to check.
 
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I was hoping for this not to turn into a saga but here goes.
All a case of if's and maybe's which I understand to a point until you actually commit to starting an internal visual inspection I suppose.
Logically, chain and tensioner broke, oil pump/differential unit to be changed?, cam might be damaged by cam lobe worn through
which might explain top end clacking possibly. Maybe a replacement turbo?? if oil system is contaminated etc etc.

The car has always been very strong and never had an engine fault or warning light in my ownership from 38k until the lovely red low oil pressure warning. If I had the mechanical skills or facilities then it would be worth doing myself and possibly saving a fortune.... it might even be not to bad??

I think id rather let the car go with to many other things happening at the moment.
Would be a fantastic project car for somebody with mechanical skills.
Dilemma...either, commit to the work... 2k/3k/4k or sell the car as is ??
 
You need to do an element of fault diagnosis before making the educated decision.

It also depends on whether you love the car or not. My DTM has caused some recent pain but I'll be seeing it through as there's nothing out there that I've found to prefer. Its also not the daily driver so there's never a rush to do anything.

You need to ascertain what the realistic damage is. Worst case scenario is a new engine I guess.

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That's the issue with cars of this age. They're worth more to us that they are to get rid of. Even if they are broken down.

Does the 2.0 petrol have a similar oil pump issue to the 2.0 TDI then?
 
£450 to remove the sump, inspect and reattach...!
Going for a replacement BUL engine could be more economical ? I wouldn't know where to start with that.
 
Doesn't necessarily have to be a BUL engine from what I've read.

That seems really steep for sump off though.



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The BUL engines are the best of the 2.0tfsi bunch but still have issues so it's never going to be a problem free life.
Going with another engine will be very touch and go unless you have proof its in good working order and you could still have issues, a new BUL engine or short engine is still available form audi if you have very, very deep pockets and is never going to be a viable proposition given the age of the car and value.
The only viable route is to get it diagnosed properly which will involve a certain amount of cost in labour charges alone, then decided how to procceed, you have very limited options to be honest and it's going to me expense whatever you do , just a case of how much.

I bought a known good complete BUL lump a few months back for my big turbo build, it's wasnt cheap but not expensive either , sadly is was damaged in transit and never delivered , but, they are around if you look for them just stay away from anything thats been tampered with / or without any proof of maintance or useage.
 
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What way did this turn out?

I wouldn't buy an engine unless I'd heard it running or it's come from a highly reputably source.

If the engine isn't good, even if they exchange it you'll have to cover the labour to remove it and refit the replacement engine again at your cost £££

Depending on your space and time allowed, the best way is to find a reasonable donor car, hopefully accident damaged (cheap) and so you can hear it running and perhaps get an idea of the miles and history.
You also then have the remainder of the car to part out and recoup some of your costs. Depending on how much time you've willing for it to sit you could even turn a profit.


Anyway, hope you get it sorted. A DTM is definitely worth saving
 
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