Edgar's A4 B7 2.0TFSI BT Build

I don't think the ball joints themselves are a user replacement part, the bushes are but otherwise its a complete assembly .
 
So when the ball joints fail, then your polly Bush will be scrapped as you will have to buy new lower arms,
I have replace the lower arms on both the cars I have owned.
 
very possibly Richard unless the bushes are in good condition and you can get them out without damaging them.
I've not seen any ball joint repair kits for the arms etc, only new arms with or without bushes.
 
Yea true that I may lose the bushings but we'll see. I can probably press them out without too many issues. I'll look into see what ball joint options I have if any.

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Started tearing the car apart today. Need to replace the throw out bearing and a couple of different gaskets. The exhaust manifold gasket and the oil return line gasket. Also have an oil leak at the cam chain cover so gonna replace that gasket too. Lastly, gonna replace the front main seal which seems to be leaking probably from when I had the crank fixed when the key way sheared. Should have replaced it then.

My aquamist water meth nozzles arrived today to pair up with my IE intake manifold. Surprisingly IE doesn't tap the bungs all the way through. Nothing a 1/8NPT tap couldn't fix. Looking forward to getting it installed down the road.

Also painted my Cupra lip with some bedliner spray. Turned out nice.

Lastly, new spark plugs arrived. Gonna try these Bosch ones out instead of the NGKs. Let's hope everything works right finally.
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Yea true that I may lose the bushings but we'll see. I can probably press them out without too many issues. I'll look into see what ball joint options I have if any.

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You'll be able to reuse the bushes when the ball joint goes eventually, i have all powerflex in the front and reused bushes in new arms. If you do, a bit of advice to keep bushes in better shape if your reusing, put a couple of cuts in the outer surround on the old arm the bush is coming out of so when you press it out there is a bit of give, makes it easier. I recently did it on the control arms, i slit both sides and the bushes came out no trouble.
 
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You'll be able to reuse the bushes when the ball joint goes eventually, i have all powerflex in the front and reused bushes in new arms. If you do, a bit of advice to keep bushes in better shape if your reusing, put a couple of cuts in the outer surround on the old arm the bush is coming out of so when you press it out there is a bit of give, makes it easier. I recently did it on the control arms, i slit both sides and the bushes came out no trouble.

Some good tips there .:icon thumright:
 
Finished dropping the trans today to change out the throw out bearing. What a beast of a job without a lift. I still have to put it back on, a piece of me just died.

The throw out bearing I took off is quite a bit different in thickness from the one I'm putting in. Anyone have any idea why? The part I'm putting in is a Luk part. The one I took off is a Sach. I don't remember where I got the old one from but it is different. I verified the new part and it is definitely the right one, even the online pictures match. I wonder if that thicker one is meant for the more aggressive clutch? I don't remember if it was in the kit. Oh well, new one is going in. Back to the grind.

Also replacing a wheel bearing today. Maintenance seems to never end on this thing.

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Neighbours of B7 Audi owners must be so use to seeing our cars in bits, on stands that they don't bat an eyelid. anymore.
 
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Haha. Yea for sure. My neighbors are definitely used to seeing the car torn apart.

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Still chasing this problem down but I'm basically out of time before I ship it on Monday. Changed the fuel filter the other day and it helped a little bit. I didn't think the old one was bad but I guess I could be wrong. My pump had come disconnected in the tank and caused the car not to start. I used the new connectors that you use heat and they solder themselves and that seemed to have failed in the fuel tank after sometime. Went back to the old crimp style.

Also sprayed my trim black. Took a long time to prep for the spray but it was worth it. I didn't clear coat it, we'll see if that becomes a factor down the road.

Got a smoke test down and they found some minor leaks at the catch can and tightened them up. Nothing significant. I know I have a leak in the evap system somewhere but I think it's towards the fuel tank area. Again, something that will have to wait.
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Black trim freshens B7's right up to date :thumbs up:
 
Long time no update. A few weeks ago I drove the car to a Cars and Coffee event and after I left I went to merge onto the highway and something banged hard. Like really hard. I thought I had blown a rod through the block. Luckily it was not a rod but unluckily my passenger axle ripped itself off the flange. Destroyed the axle shield and basically made the axle and axle flange unusable.

I was finally able to get the car in the garage yesterday and changed it all out. Much easier than I anticipated but I made a huge mess with trans fluid. I forgot how terrible that crap smells.

I also changed the charcoal canister under the gas tank which was also easier than I thought. I should be able to get full tanks of gas now and hopefully no more large evap leak codes (P0455).

The battery is dead so I'll have to wait until tomorrow and get a better battery tender to charge it up over night and get it on the road.

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Bought an Integrated Engineering manifold from a member here a few days ago and got started on the install today. Thank you @apatchin

Also took the time to look over as much of the wiring as i could today too to see if I can find any broken or frayed wires which I did and I patched up. The wires were at the cam position sensor and weren't in good shape. I'm hoping this fixes my hesitation issues.

So with the manifold I changed to and installed my port meth injection nozzles. It's weird that they don't thread all the way but as long they function I'll be happy. 4 nozzles on the manifold and 1 post intercooler. With that comes some new connections that were needed.

Also have my new Innovative oil pressure and temp gauge but pics of that later.

Didn't finish the install today because it looks like I have shave some metal off the fuel rail so it fits right. I'll get that done tomorrow hopefully. Thanks to @Dpartinvr4 for all the help today.
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Glad to see you are still improving your B7 Edgar, really good looking manifold that is:yes:, i have to agree aswell on the rubbish wiring on our cars as it does get so tired .

top work as per normal.:icon thumright:
 
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Got the new manifold installed along with the nozzles for meth. Car idles great and runs good but I'm still having problems with hard cuts at about 6800 rpm. I'm just gonna remove the golf r cam and reinstall the stock one. I don't know what else it could possibly be. I've checked over all the wiring and keep getting a pressure rail code through my generic scanner and that's after mending a few nicked wires I found.

New problem. Whenever I turn the car off it basically dies, like dead battery dead. I don't know if I have a bad ground somewhere but if I do haven't been able to find it. I don't know what's causing that. If there's a relay I should be checking then I'm all ears.
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Are you not running a camshaft pulley top cover then Edgar, that hose looks a bit close for comfort.
 
Are you not running a camshaft pulley top cover then Edgar, that hose looks a bit close for comfort.
No. No cover. Never had a problem but the lines are close. I have some of them zip tied off just in case so they don't walk off into that area.

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Out with the new, in with the old.

Installed my stock A4 intake cam. The Golf R intake cam just wasn't playing right with my setup.

Took it out for a quick rip after I flashed the correct tune for that cam and it is definitely driving better. No fuel cuts, no codes. It's great. Hopefully I can find a road to so some logging tomorrow to send to Motoza and allow them to provide revisions if it's looking good.
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That's good news Edgar, i've allways maintained that newer is not always better..
I suspect a lot of your issues have been centred around that Golf R cam, nice to see you've returned to a proper cam setup.:icon thumright:
 
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Done quite a few things, really mostly fixes over the past 2 weeks or so.

Replaced my N75 valve and removed my GFB. Don't know if there was anything wrong with the GFB but one of the holes was stripped so i retapped and helicoiled it.

Replaced a bunch of boost clamps with Mishimoto ones. They hold much better. I suspect I had several small leaks but they never showed up on a smoke test.

Cleaned up some things in general.

Bought some Bilstein shocks for $100. Looked practically new but they don't ride any where near as good as my Koni shocks did. I'll be looking to possibly replace those later this year. They're fine for now and might perform fine during more spirited driving.

Also changed out my wheel studs. The old ones were some cheap ebay ones that were rusting up and were becoming hard to get on and off.

I have an oil leak at the exhaust cam seal so I'll have to put the car in the service position and take the cam gear off to replace or reseat the seal. Not something I want to do but I want the leak to stop.

Once I'm happy with all that then I'll get some more logs and see if everything is finally behaving so i can finally get things turned up.

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Installed the RS4 steering relay this morning. Noticable reduction in slop on my drive to work. Bought it used from a RS4 partout and def worth it.

I'm getting a lot of smoke at idle and on acceleration now. Also not able to hit requested boost. Still pulls pretty hard but I'm seeing 18psi max. So i ordered a new supercore which should be here in a week. I at least hope that solves my smoking and lack of boost because I see no other reason to be down on power.
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Interesting, what is the RS relay meant to do differently?
 
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Interesting, what is the RS relay meant to do differently?
I was about to ask the very same question.
Firms up the slop that you feel primarily when driving in a straight line but also when you go over bumps. It's as if the B7 on its normal relay is always trying to over correct your steering and driving and this calms it down. That's the best way I can explain it.

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How does it interface with the servotronic steering on the B7's ?
 
How does it interface with the servotronic steering on the B7's ?
I don't know how to answer that question Rob as i don't have any good knowledge of anything servotronic. I don't have any warnings or extra lights set off with it. It's plug and play and nothing more needed than that.

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Ok, I might have a go then .
I'm not sure on servotronic myself other than it adjusts to compensate for speed etc or something like that.
 
New supercore has arrived. Won't have time to install until Monday. Hopefully all goes well and smooth and i have a noticeable improvement.
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Firms up the slop that you feel primarily when driving in a straight line but also when you go over bumps. It's as if the B7 on its normal relay is always trying to over correct your steering and driving and this calms it down. That's the best way I can explain it.

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So this isn't a petrol only issue and could work on a TDI B7?
 
So this isn't a petrol only issue and could work on a TDI B7?
I would imagine so. The relay is located under the knee bolster (my car is left hand drive) and has 640 stamped on it. I imagine if you have that same one then it should be a straight forward swap.

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OEM part number for that 640 servo relay:
8E0907307H
You are technically correct because that is the stock relay found in our B7s but the relay you want to replace it with is part number:

8E0907307H

It will have 642 stamped on it, it is a RS4 part.

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Looks like the same part number to me..
Also listed in ETKA with this part number ONLY in the RS4 model(nr 3)
Upload 2021 1 18 16 4 58
 
Great post . very interested as im going to do similar to my engine . but only aiming for about 320 . but im going to do reboild with wossner pistons and pec rods 83mm and interested to know what sort of price the dyno was at sa tuning
 
Great post . very interested as im going to do similar to my engine . but only aiming for about 320 . but im going to do reboild with wossner pistons and pec rods 83mm and interested to know what sort of price the dyno was at sa tuning
I think SA tuning was around £600 but I don't quite remember because it was so long ago. You can write them and they'll give you a quote.

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Ah ,so it is related to servotronic steering then.

Fitment
This part fits into 2 vehicle models. Check the section "Fit these cars"
Additional informations
PR-CODE
Informations
1N3 Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
FN1 \RS\" version"

OEM part numbers:
8E0907307C


Part Number: 8E0907307H
Supersession(s): 8E0-907-307-H; 8E0907307C