Help needed again! Turbo failure? No boost or power?!?!

Stu_b7

Stu_b7

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Hi everyone so some bad news for the car at the moment drove it yesterday and all seemed fine boosting fine and pulling well, then today went out in it and nothing no boost or turbo noise like I normally get??
I have checked hoses and few bits I’ve got no smoke or anything like that from exhaust but if anything sounds abit louder than normal?? Any help would be great before I start down the new turbo route


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DV would be a prime candidate as it won't throw a dash lamp but would showup on vcds etc.
Have you run a scan of any description?
A defective DV will most certainly account for low or no boost.
 
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I'm Just Rob. said:
DV would be a prime candidate as it won't throw a dash lamp but would showup on vcds etc.
Have you run a scan of any description?
A defective DV will most certainly account for low or no boost.
Click to expand...

Ah ok that’s sounds better lol there are no lights showing at all,
The engine is the 2.0 tfsi bul engine.
And no I haven’t run a scan on anything is that something I could do or I take it you need a proper scanner for that?


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A scan may not in itself show a leaking DV , but the realtime scan will through boost pressures etc , if the DV has malfunctioned then it would say in the error log.

That's assuming it's the DV, if you have high milage and no record of when or if its been replaced then it would be a good starting point , lack of boost and power and no dash lamps is a classic leaking DV symptom.
Ideally a scan would show up any faults or malfunctions etc otherwise its a bit hit and miss really.
 
Ok sounds like that could be it I hope then as no records of it being changed and the car has all its recipes of work done, the car is on 110000 miles so fingers crossed that’s it!


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maybe worth jacking up the car , whip off the under tray and you'll have easy access to the DV, 3 screws and its out, then you can either confirm or discount that part.
30 min job.
 
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I'm Just Rob. said:
maybe worth jacking up the car , whip off the under tray and you'll have easy access to the DV, 3 screws and its out, then you can either confirm or discount that part.
30 min job.
Click to expand...

Ok that’s great would this be what I need to replace?
c6c32f0f30a4d31fde7785e6126963d9.jpg



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You'd be better scanning your car before replacing random parts.
 
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Your choice really, a lots of guys on here have and like them , I haven't tried one to date .
I feel the original design works very well albeit at the cost of a shorter working lifespan, well that also depends on how much you use the car.
You could get 30-40k maybe more from the oem item

The latest revision oem part is a piston affair and replaces the diaphragm types which there were several revisions.
Having tried all of the oem DV's the last rev diaphragm is the best , well that's my opinion.
oem is half the cost of DV+, so for the cost of the DV+ you'd have more than enough miles from two oem's.

Your choice really.
Best plan would be isolate the problem first before lashing out.
 
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If you do decide to take the hands on route and check out the DV, don't be tempted to just unplug it first to see what happens.
That won't show up a leaking DV, all it will do is generate a fault code and the car will run rubbish.
The thing with a leaking DV is that is just doesn't hold boost, you put your foot down and it just carries on the same with little or no change.
It still works whereas if you unplug it the DV just wont work at all.
 
I'm Just Rob. said:
If you do decide to take the hands on route and check out the DV, don't be tempted to just unplug it first to see what happens.
That won't show up a leaking DV, all it will do is generate a fault code and the car will run rubbish.
The thing with a leaking DV is that is just doesn't hold boost, you put your foot down and it just carries on the same with little or no change.
It still works whereas if you unplug it the DV just wont work at all.
Click to expand...

I will be jacking the car up tomorrow and taking of the DV to see if it’s gone or not fingers crossed it’s that tho


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The reason I went with the gfb dv+ is because I don't plan on selling mine and rather me putting multiple oem ones in over time id just buy it once and forget about it also knowing there prone to failing or give up on a modified car with higher boost than stock it was a nice upgrade at the same time, the oem design isn't specifically faulty itself its actually a good set up but the gfb dv+ is just billet aluminium internals rather than plastic, basically the oem one on roids.

Both do the same job ones just got shiny bits and I like shiny bits.
 
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Bit of an update I’ve gotten under the car and found this threaded rod which to me looks like it should be connected to something an I right?
6f09e87285f6dfe9788501fb588f8fc2.jpg

a4585588e7ab6706112572c753e9c984.jpg



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Yes that should be connected to the wastegate on the manifold, there should be a turnbuckle like this,
 

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Ah, you need to see about getting the other end out of the turnbuckle, its very tight under there. If your lucky the broken bit will come out easy, if it does its not so bad to do. There are 2 bolts that hold the actuater and a vac pipe to undo. Then you can put in a replacement actuator(either a second or oem unit, i dropped in a forge one on mine) and adjust accordingly, look here

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420536-Wastegate-Adjustment
 
Sygh2k said:
Ah, you need to see about getting the other end out of the turnbuckle, its very tight under there. If your lucky the broken bit will come out easy, if it does its not so bad to do. There are 2 bolts that hold the actuater and a vac pipe to undo. Then you can put in a replacement actuator(either a second or oem unit, i dropped in a forge one on mine) and adjust accordingly, look here

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420536-Wastegate-Adjustment
Click to expand...

Which forge one did you get I’m going to take the car to a garage to replace mine as it’s beyond my skills lol!


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Sygh2k said:
I think its this one i have, but have a revo2+ tune
https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Turbo_Actuator_for_Audi_A4_A6_20_TFSi--product--60.html

Now before you order, are you tuned, if so do you plan on it as there are options on these for springs etc(best to drop forge an email For recommendations), if not personnaly id consider a stock/2nd hand replacement.
Click to expand...

It’s not tuned yet but will be in the future so want something that will be ok for that in the future


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Probably stick to a standard spring(green)

i went for a yellow spring at the time and have been adjusting for what seems ages to get the right preload

I think turbosmart also have an option for an actuator
 
Interesting read as i was planning on getting the forge actuator as ill be going stage 2+ handy to know they do different springs
 
I think most aftermarket units offer different springs depending on what your requirements are too
 
Sygh2k said:
Probably stick to a standard spring(green)

i went for a yellow spring at the time and have been adjusting for what seems ages to get the right preload

I think turbosmart also have an option for an actuator
Click to expand...

Ok would a yellow spring hurt tho as I’m going to be getting it remapped next year?


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Also which is best piston or diaphragm


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Im not sure how effective the yellow spring will be on a std setup, i would drop forge an email and ask them theyl know better than me.
My thoughts if you go too strong on the spring this can cause issues that cant be fixed without a softer spring, whereas too soft a spring you can put more preload on, i might be wrong but im sure somewhere i read the spring should be approx half the peak boost, that or i just made that up.
In terms of spring/diaphragm i just looked what i ordered and it doesnt say, nor can remember now as it was a while ago, my guess would be diaphragm.

A bit more info where i am, i have revo2+ set with boost at 4 i think and with yellow spring in actuator, i keep getting initial boost way over whats needed, this im trying to dial out as i think i have too much preload, although im not sure how much more i can take out, potentially i need to drop to a softer spring unless its something else, i did rebuild the bottom end not long since.
 
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Sygh2k said:
Im not sure how effective the yellow spring will be on a std setup, i would drop forge an email and ask them theyl know better than me.
My thoughts if you go too strong on the spring this can cause issues that cant be fixed without a softer spring, whereas too soft a spring you can put more preload on, i might be wrong but im sure somewhere i read the spring should be approx half the peak boost, that or i just made that up.
In terms of spring/diaphragm i just looked what i ordered and it doesnt say, nor can remember now as it was a while ago, my guess would be diaphragm.

A bit more info where i am, i have revo2+ set with boost at 4 i think and with yellow spring in actuator, i keep getting initial boost way over whats needed, this im trying to dial out as i think i have too much preload, although im not sure how much more i can take out, potentially i need to drop to a softer spring unless its something else, i did rebuild the bottom end not long since.
Click to expand...

Ok that’s great I will speak to forge and see what they say thanks for all the help


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Good work finding that, it does pay to get underneath and hands on really, if you get stuck I have another rod and bits sitting surplus.
I'd still be pulling out that DV to be honest aswell, judging by the screws it's not been off for sometime.

good luck m maybe worth getting a diag program just to keep an eye on things from a fault log view point.
Just because you cant see a problem doesn't mean you don't have any.
 
Quick update on this, I’ve had the actuator and DV changed over and the car feels a lot better now and I have boost again
Only thing I miss is the turbo flutter noise has pretty much all gone? I still have the induction kit sucking noise which I like but kinda do miss the flutter noise.
Could this have been a boost leak I had with the old DV?


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Stuart Bennett said:
Quick update on this, I’ve had the actuator and DV changed over and the car feels a lot better now and I have boost again
Only thing I miss is the turbo flutter noise has pretty much all gone? I still have the induction kit sucking noise which I like but kinda do miss the flutter noise.
Could this have been a boost leak I had with the old DV?


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Click to expand...
What actuator did you go for in the end?
 
I'm Just Rob. said:
Good work finding that, it does pay to get underneath and hands on really, if you get stuck I have another rod and bits sitting surplus.
I'd still be pulling out that DV to be honest aswell, judging by the screws it's not been off for sometime.

good luck m maybe worth getting a diag program just to keep an eye on things from a fault log view point.
Just because you cant see a problem doesn't mean you don't have any.
Click to expand...

What sort of diag program do you use as there are so many?
I was looking at those OBD2 Bluetooth ones that connect to your phone but not sure if they are any good?
I’m just after a boost reading really


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