Random turbo solanoid , bypass control ,evap and fuel pump errors.
- Thread starter Charlie Farley
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Cant find anything, had my multimeter on all the offending looms and nothing out of the normal, plus the car runs so well normally, it all goes down hill if the car wont start first time, bang the EPC lights on and it runs like a pig in limp mode .
switch off and it normally restarts fine, but now its taking more restarts to clear the problem.
From my thinking it has to be during the starting function .
switch off and it normally restarts fine, but now its taking more restarts to clear the problem.
From my thinking it has to be during the starting function .
Fuel pump control module location, No way water got in there.
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so how does it come out then chap, no way its coming out of that small gap where the wire comes out.
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Remove the fuel pump, it will be easier, there is a metal plate. I have never removed it so these are the instructions from my mechanic.
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Ok thanks, i'm not pulling the pump all out again as I cant be sure the module is in fact faulty.
I think i'll pull the ecu all out again and see if anything is abnormal in side, I doubt it but just to be 200% sure.
I think i'll pull the ecu all out again and see if anything is abnormal in side, I doubt it but just to be 200% sure.
Pulling that module out won't help with diagnosis as there's nothing to it except the pigtail that's already plugged into the pump. Unless you're trying to disassemble it then I would just leave it even if you get a new one otherwise you either have to remove the pump to gain room or bend the metal around it. Either way it's a pain.
Hope you get it figured out Ron. I have an extra module laying around somewhere if you want to diagnose with it. I don't know what the symptoms of a bad one are. The only time I ran into problems with my stock one was after my tune it was requesting more amps from the module, causing it to overheat and shut off at random times especially at lights. I would have to wait about 15 minutes for it to cool down so I could start the car again.
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Hope you get it figured out Ron. I have an extra module laying around somewhere if you want to diagnose with it. I don't know what the symptoms of a bad one are. The only time I ran into problems with my stock one was after my tune it was requesting more amps from the module, causing it to overheat and shut off at random times especially at lights. I would have to wait about 15 minutes for it to cool down so I could start the car again.
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i think this is true only in saloon, in avant its behind rear seat under all the rear trim-the spare wheel liner has to come out
thanks chap, i'll have look this morning.
And if there's any engine fault light illuminated today it's going to be curtains for the old bus.
I have a love / hate relationship with my audi, at the moment I most certainly swinging to a hate situation.
This might help, on my 2wd there is an electronic box attached tp the underside of the cover when you remove it too so dont go pulling too much
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/please-help-fuel-pump-location.122119/
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/please-help-fuel-pump-location.122119/
I don't know either but I haven't heard of it being body specific. We have different fuel tanks in 2wd and 4wd and that's why I believe the tanks are in slightly different places.
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I've been on this problem all afternoon and it has me stumped.
It is most certainly getting more frequent , and it wont clear at all now.
The same old fault codes aswell.
I have disconnected every sensor that's being flagged as open circuit etc and all except one do respond in vcds as being unplugged etc .
The n276 doesn't make any difference , same message , open circuit and that's with another HPFP and there is no difference weather its plugged in or not with the exception that I can clear the other 3 faults no problem , but with the engine running the n276 fault wont clear , it just make the car run even worse when trying to clear the error.
the scan shows it's getting enough voltage .
what I have now noticed is that the fuel rail pressure requested is 50 but acctaul is 7 and when cranking the hpfp goes to 100.
I've eliminated all the 4 faulty parts as not being faulty , wiring test don't show anything abnormal but I also fitted a new lpfp .
I'm thinking it may not working properly based on the low fuel rail pressure and poor starting again.
would this sound like a possible source still even though its a new pump assembly.
It is most certainly getting more frequent , and it wont clear at all now.
The same old fault codes aswell.
I have disconnected every sensor that's being flagged as open circuit etc and all except one do respond in vcds as being unplugged etc .
The n276 doesn't make any difference , same message , open circuit and that's with another HPFP and there is no difference weather its plugged in or not with the exception that I can clear the other 3 faults no problem , but with the engine running the n276 fault wont clear , it just make the car run even worse when trying to clear the error.
the scan shows it's getting enough voltage .
what I have now noticed is that the fuel rail pressure requested is 50 but acctaul is 7 and when cranking the hpfp goes to 100.
I've eliminated all the 4 faulty parts as not being faulty , wiring test don't show anything abnormal but I also fitted a new lpfp .
I'm thinking it may not working properly based on the low fuel rail pressure and poor starting again.
would this sound like a possible source still even though its a new pump assembly.
There's a possibility of that but the prv is a dumb valve meaning it just opens when it reaches its designed fuel pressure and otherwise its closed. I'm not sure what would cause it to go bad or what symptoms it would show if it did.
You did replace the LPFP?
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yes, replaced the LPFP with another oem unit with a nearly new but the guy guaranteed it working fine, i'm starting to wonder now.
What stick's in my head is that this.
The problem has been getting gradually worse which would be in keeping with a failing pump or valve etc, the fault codes are exactly the same apart from the milage count and when it does start without issue it runs spot on, so whatever it is relates to the starting mode.
Which comes back to the fuel pressure again when starting.
The problem has been getting gradually worse which would be in keeping with a failing pump or valve etc, the fault codes are exactly the same apart from the milage count and when it does start without issue it runs spot on, so whatever it is relates to the starting mode.
Which comes back to the fuel pressure again when starting.
very tempted to just buy a brand new LPFP , not an ideal situation just throwing more cash at the problem but can't see what else to do at this point.
You just need to look at duty cycle for the pump at idle to know if it's going bad. I wouldn't buy that without looking at that first.
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Did you change the rail sensor? Also known as the thrust sensor? It's behind the alternator under the intake manifold.
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It would. I was asking because if you had then you had to make sure to get the correct one for the VIN split. Depending on your VIN depends on the part number.
I think it's 103 or 106. You could just monitor both. I'll have a quick Google look.
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Would you mind posting your scan next time you run your codes with VCDS?
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Ok Edgar,
just had another go and it just wont have it, EPC is just stuck on.
did a quick scan.
can clear 3 of 4 faults but the n276 wont go, here is the log plus two of the real time pressures.
just had another go and it just wont have it, EPC is just stuck on.
did a quick scan.
can clear 3 of 4 faults but the n276 wont go, here is the log plus two of the real time pressures.
I know you just ran that duty cycle test but I forgot to mention that the engine temp needs to warm at idle. Else you'll get a high idle and high duty cycle reading.
Was the engine warm? Might be best to wait until tomorrow for it.
I'll look up the P2294 code and read around. Not familiar with that code.
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The code points to the HPFP, particularly the N276 on top (I know you know this already). Do you have a spare pump to swap in? I thought you did that recently with a spare someone sent you? Your LPFP duty cycle is extremely high. If the LPFP is good then you're risking damaging it by running it at such a high duty cycle often. Keep in mind that if other fuel components are failing they may be making the LPFP work extra hard to supply the demand.
You could tug on the wires a bit that connects to the HPFP and see if something is loose but you also said that you checked voltage at the connectors (I think you said that).
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I have another one fitted now but the problem hasn't changed, wiring seems ok and I've been through the wiring with no difference, i'm scratching my head .
The other factor is why do the other 3 components all trow up open circuit errors after the engine does its EPC thing , they are all new and the N80 goes into a MIL fault aswell.
The other factor is why do the other 3 components all trow up open circuit errors after the engine does its EPC thing , they are all new and the N80 goes into a MIL fault aswell.
What errors are they? Do they have any P Codes associated with them? Its difficult to say. Just one sensor or something could be bad and throwing the other ones off.
I know relays have been mentioned in the past too.
I have an extra fuel controller you can swap in and test but I don't know if it would do anything for you.
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I know relays have been mentioned in the past too.
I have an extra fuel controller you can swap in and test but I don't know if it would do anything for you.
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these 3 , and they are also allways the same.
it cant be the components as they are all new oem.
001092 - EVAP Purge Control Valve (N80)
P0444 - 004 - Circuit Open - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1257 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 49.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.065 V
000051 - Turbocharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0033 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1257 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 49.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.684 V
000579 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
P0243 - 004 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1262 /min
Load: 31.8 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 51.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.938 V
008852 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
P2294 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
it cant be the components as they are all new oem.
001092 - EVAP Purge Control Valve (N80)
P0444 - 004 - Circuit Open - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1257 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 49.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.065 V
000051 - Turbocharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0033 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1257 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 49.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.684 V
000579 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
P0243 - 004 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 132582 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1262 /min
Load: 31.8 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 51.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.938 V
008852 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
P2294 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
That seems like an electrical problem. If you checked the 614 fuse/relay under the ECU then I would check the other fuses under there too. The regular fuses like the 15a ones.
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Found this. Not perfect but gives another place to check.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/838735-P0243-P0444-P2294-P2401-2006-Audi-a4-quattro
Especially the part that says:
Just had these exact codes and lights, car was in limp mode etc. , check the fuses near the ecu, NOT the fuses in the dash. Should be the blue 15a fuse with the tan colored clip on it. You have to remove the ecu cover. It worked for me.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/838735-P0243-P0444-P2294-P2401-2006-Audi-a4-quattro
Especially the part that says:
Just had these exact codes and lights, car was in limp mode etc. , check the fuses near the ecu, NOT the fuses in the dash. Should be the blue 15a fuse with the tan colored clip on it. You have to remove the ecu cover. It worked for me.
That looks very promising Edgar, I did replace the relays but not the fuses for some reason.
those replies are prettywell the same issues as mine.
I was going to pull the ecu box all out today but didn't think it worth it, I best do it tomorrow now.
good stuff chap.
those replies are prettywell the same issues as mine.
I was going to pull the ecu box all out today but didn't think it worth it, I best do it tomorrow now.
good stuff chap.
I don't have a wiring schematic to hand but by some chance do these 4 electrical devices share the same circuit or connection point at the ecu or fuse board.
I don't have the post up on my phone but it was mentioned in a different post that at least 3 of those sensors share the same fuse. Maybe all 5. Something like S345 or something like that is the fuse or relay. Should be a 15a blue fuse.
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Another day and maybe a glimmer of hope now or maybe just 
.
Had the ECU box all open again and pulled everything out and I do mean everything out.
Replaced all the fuses and there are in fact 4 15 amp and 1 20amp, pulled out both relays and replaced with two more new ones.
shouted at it for a few seconds aswell.
Now I tested all the old fuses and they were ok , relays seem to be ok but you never really know .
Anyway plugged vcds in, fired up the we beasty and it went straight away, quick look at the dash, whoppeeee no EPC or MIL ,things are looking up I thought.
Ran vcds to clear all last nights log , and more whoppeee everything cleared and not returned, even real time fuel pressures are normal along with duty cycle etc.
Is this some sort of trickery I ask myself ,or, just a temporary fix who knows.
Hopefully it will stay sorted but i'm struggling to see what has changed to be honest as the fuses were ok , wiring is fine after all and relays were new , unless one was faulty which is allways possible.
The old bus is back to its brilliant best again.
That hopefully will be the end of things so I must thank all those that have replied to my thread with info and help, it has been most greatfully received.
Maybe this thread will be of some assistance to others that may suffer the same issues.
cheers
rob.
.Had the ECU box all open again and pulled everything out and I do mean everything out.
Replaced all the fuses and there are in fact 4 15 amp and 1 20amp, pulled out both relays and replaced with two more new ones.
shouted at it for a few seconds aswell.
Now I tested all the old fuses and they were ok , relays seem to be ok but you never really know .
Anyway plugged vcds in, fired up the we beasty and it went straight away, quick look at the dash, whoppeeee no EPC or MIL ,things are looking up I thought.
Ran vcds to clear all last nights log , and more whoppeee everything cleared and not returned, even real time fuel pressures are normal along with duty cycle etc.
Is this some sort of trickery I ask myself ,or, just a temporary fix who knows.
Hopefully it will stay sorted but i'm struggling to see what has changed to be honest as the fuses were ok , wiring is fine after all and relays were new , unless one was faulty which is allways possible.
The old bus is back to its brilliant best again.
That hopefully will be the end of things so I must thank all those that have replied to my thread with info and help, it has been most greatfully received.
Maybe this thread will be of some assistance to others that may suffer the same issues.
cheers
rob.
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