My s3 v6 build

Yes but given I made over 600hp on a 0.63 do you want the lag? Arguably a 3.2 will spool a bigger hotside sooner than a 2.0 but without seeing actual results and given you power goals and assuming you are not planning to rev to the moon then a larger hotside seems redundant in my personal opinion...

My GT3582r has a 0.63 hotside... That's what I play to use...

I would leave the 0.63 on... Wait until its mapped and see where the power is... If its chocking up top then you could try a 0.82... A 1.06 is way to big unless shooting for all the actual hp on the world

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Yes but given I made over 600hp on a 0.63 do you want the lag? Arguably a 3.2 will spool a bigger hotside sooner than a 2.0 but without seeing actual results and given you power goals and assuming you are not planning to rev to the moon then a larger hotside seems redundant in my personal opinion...

My GT3582r has a 0.63 hotside... That's what I play to use...

I would leave the 0.63 on... Wait until its mapped and see where the power is... If its chocking up top then you could try a 0.82... A 1.06 is way to big unless shooting for all the actual hp on the world

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

right Ok so il keep looking for . 63 twin scroll V band housing, or ditch the v band have seen t4 .63 housings
Cheers tuffty
 
its a twin scroll?.. hummm... not had any experience of those so cannot say what the results might be but I'd still say use the hotside you have until you know you need to change it...

<tuffty/>
 
The exhaust manifold I’m ordering is twin scroll , choice of v band or t4 , currently turbo isn’t twin scroll so need a new housing I’ve been debating for a while and have read a things about the cast one’s warping and tbh the builds took that long I might aswell do it the way I want now instead Of wishing I should of done this or that
 
Given the power you are shooting for and you aren't running loads of boost then warping won't be an issue... not seen it on a Tial or Garratt hotside at least and certainly not on mine...

I have seen it on IHI hotsides though but would imagine its subjective for the most part...

Can't imagine you will need twin scroll on a 0.63 or even a 0.82 for that matter on a 3.2 IMO... if going 1.06 then yeah, twin scroll might be worth a look into...

<tuffty/>
 
Garrett v-band 1.01AR twinscroll..
https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Garrett-GT35-Series-Exhaust-Casing-V-Band-Split-TwinScroll-V-Band-101ar

You would need to have the mani built with the right flange too which I think is this one...
https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Manifold-flange-V-band-split-Stainless-steel-SS304-14301-V2A

That said... I am still not convinced its needed but thats just my opinion and not based on any personal experience or derived from facts... as tbh I can't find a lot about them especially on the VR engine...

You can't really take figures based on other engines either (Evo's get quoted quite a bit for some reason) as the engines characteristics are different and the internet is the internet :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Power goals is anywhere over 500 hopefully over 600 and not blow up
The manifold can be made to v band Or t4 , it’s the turbo housing I want to change to v band. I have a t4 cast manifold but for a while now have been wanting to change it, for a decent tubular manifold, I wanted to go twin turbo But that’s a no go, So I have a few options

Keep the turbo housing and eBay cast manifold

Keep my t4 turbo housing and get a t4 tubular manifold

get a new v band turbo housing and new manifold both with or without twin scroll

or keep the cast manifold and get the g30 770

keeping the eBay manifold would be a hella lot cheaper but I’d probably want to change it down the line so I’m thinking I might as we do it now
 
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If it were me TJ, I’d go V-Band and whatever is necessary to do so.


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500hp is not a lot of power tbh... not for V6...

So... on mine for example I plan to run no more than 1bar of boost on a GT3582r... this would net around 350-400hp on a 1.8t generally speaking... or a VR I suspect this should be in the 450hp region..

To get 450hp @7k rpm (not planning to redline much past the stock redline to keep better reliability) the engine will need to produce around 338ftlbs torque... fairly sure this is doable but not got any experience of this engine so who knows :)

To get 500hp @7k then you only need 375ftlbs...

<tuffty/>
 
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<tuffty/> said:
Garrett v-band 1.01AR twinscroll..
https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Garrett-GT35-Series-Exhaust-Casing-V-Band-Split-TwinScroll-V-Band-101ar

You would need to have the mani built with the right flange too which I think is this one...
https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Manifold-flange-V-band-split-Stainless-steel-SS304-14301-V2A

That said... I am still not convinced its needed but thats just my opinion and not based on any personal experience or derived from facts... as tbh I can't find a lot about them especially on the VR engine...

You can't really take figures based on other engines either (Evo's get quoted quite a bit for some reason) as the engines characteristics are different and the internet is the internet :)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

you know better than me I don’t even know what the ar means ha I’ve seen a .83 vband do will keep looking
 
If things had played out a bit differently then I may have had mine done by now and would have had a baseline.... either way it would not have changed my approach to it...

I would prefer to have a tubular manifold purely because I know fitment would be better and everything easier to engineer but from a cost perspective and especially as I am not gunning for figures I could not justify the expense...

I am not shy of spending money where its needed of course (and even when its not... you only have to look at my PC build for that !!! lol) but on a personal level I do get more value from a 1300 quid graphics card than I would from a 1300 quid exhaust manifold...

Thats not to say I won't go tubular in the future... but at this time while aiming for 400-450hp I don't plan to go too OTT just yet.... as I did that once already lol

<tuffty/>
 
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That from turning the engine over by hand? sounds more like normal compression sounds of the pistons as you turn it over to me...

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah had to alter the holes on the guide slightly got the top chain cover and tensioner on so spun it over just to see if it moved
 
What size injectors should I be looking at using I presume Bosch badger5 sells would be the best as it’s most likely the same spray pattern as the 1.8t I’ve asked on the r32oc but tbh that place is useless I’d be better asking my mum then getting a reply on there
 
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I used Bosch 630cc (0280158123)

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-123812-bosch-petrol-injector-0280158123.aspx

They need to be long nose and short body to work with the VR 3.2 head... just looked through my thread and I don't appear to have posted any pics of mine as such other than in this pic...
20190630-96dpi-img_20190630_154509-jpg.185836


630's 'should' be enough for 500hp... I am running them at 3bar currently (std 3.2 FPR is 4bar) so I have some overhead if I need to use a 4bar later...

I ran 4 x 1000cc on the 20v making 620hp and IDC on injectors was 85% (IIRC).... 6 x 630cc is 300cc less overall fuelling capacity but at 4bar they are then rated at a theoretical 727cc so would give over head if needed...

I am not sure if there are larger injectors in that form factor out the box but due to the design of the head and how the injectors have to fit there is a limited range available that will fit in the standard position and work in the head

<tuffty/>
 
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This lockdown is driving me mad t all tps Counters are closed and are phone orders/ delivery only to account holders only so trying to order a all the hoses and clips to go one the engine on eBay all new ones are either Greece, Latvia, or USA all from different sellers so postage is as much as the bits, with 2-3 week delivery time .
Surly all tps need for an account is proof of trade like company formation number? If so I’ll be opening a ltd company for £12 it will be cheaper than delivery and delivered a lot quicker
 
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I feel your pain, I’ve ordered a load of bits. Most have turned up with couriers like DPD, TNT, etc. But Royal Mail?!?! I’ve got stuff that should have been delivered a week ago and it’s still not turned up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
managed to get the sump on and thermometer housing on just waiting for the rocker cover to come back from powder coating
BF750ED5 B015 4046 A0C8 E874F8230634



Cleaned up the oil filter housing and alternator bracket gave them both a lick of paint
Just need to drop the inlet manifold off for sand blasting and I can weld the thing back up



B26A01E1 D556 4456 839F 4AE7A322AE84
 
145605B0 24B3 474B A7E2 9A1EAA7BE27E
F732B621 15B8 40F5 B64B 2F49314F3CD4
In my stressed state trying to get the old engine out I cut these to hoses can can’t make out which ones they are off the etka drawing
 
Possibly the bit where it changes to metal is behind the heat shielding and it wants turning 90 degrees
 
@<tuffty/> as your a few steps ahead of me do you know the part number For bolts for the thermostat housing to the block?
And where I can find the part number for number 6 it’s not listed
4A9ABCE0 9478 4814 93DE AC7DD34D364C
 
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I’m just going to use what I got at the minute just to get it up and running and but will be swapping it later this year/ early next for a g30 770
 
Ordered a flywheel and seller has cancelled it so Clucth is back on hold , all the little bits of hoses n bolts that I needed from tps has just cost me £450! Talk about being stung at least they are on there way and il Have them Tomorrow
 
Standard flywheel with a Sachs sintered 4 puck disc and a Sachs pressure plate should be good for 750nm
Or rushworth performance do a 550nm Sachs kit minus the flywheel (£575)
 
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