B8 headlight level sensor replacement advice.

CHEZ

moderately amusing
Supporter
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
7,383
Reaction score
1,675
Points
113
Location
just about, right here!
Afternoon all,
During this state of lockdown I am beginning to tackle some of them tasks that I never got time to get around to.
I had eibach springs fitted about 3 years ago and the monkeys that fitted them snapped the level sensors on the front and rear left side.
It hasn't been a problem TBH because I rarely drive in the dark, but when I do the headlights point down low.
So I decided to buy the pair and fit them.
I can find bits of information on the web regarding fitting the front, but very little on the rear.
Do any of you lovely bunch have any info, or a guide , or point me in the right direction of a how to guide to do the rear.
I like to be knowledged up before I tackle something.
Any help very much appreciated, and thanks in advance.
Cheers
 
It's usually hidden up in the rear axle, needs jacking, plus calibrate new ones is best.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CHEZ
It's usually hidden up in the rear axle, needs jacking, plus calibrate new ones is best.

Oh I can see them, was just wanting a walk through guide how to do it.
Will they definitely need calibrating or can that wait?
Given the state of play with travelling, and what's the procedure with calibration @NHN please?
 
Unbolt old, fit new, simples.

Usually with vcds.
 
Unbolt old, fit new, simples.

Usually with vcds.

Not so simples actually.

However I have managed and this is how.
No calibration needed or anything, in fact I left the sensors on and just replaced the swivelling arm attachments.
When I initially looked at the rear, I noticed the main bracket bolt was in fact attached through the bush for the lower wishbone and was in a pita of a location.
So, decided to survey the situation.
The sensor was ok, the sensor arm was ok, it was only the swivelling arm that was bust.
Ball joints corroded to buggery either end.
So a little penetrating fluid on the 10mm nut, and a little on the M6 Allen bolt that goes into the wishbone, I started to dismantle the new sensor, removing the afore mentioned arm.
Carefully removing the old arm once the release fluid had done it's thing, I bolted on the new bit.
Voila sorted.
I then done exactly the same on the front.
Put wheels back on, started engine, put the headlights on, then did a scan.
Everything hunky dory and zero errors.
Plus I got to retain my original Audi sensors and have a couple of Hong kongs finest as spares.
So basically, as long as the sensors are ok, you can fix these in situ.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RS5 JON