OEM Part Number - Rear Brake Caliper Seizing causing handbrake to fail!

R

Raul_Breganzo

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Hi

Can anyone tell me how to obtain the correct part for my drivers side rear brake caliper please? I don’t know the OEM part number n the mechanic couldn’t confirm it/I didn’t specifically ask him for it. I don’t know if the part needs to be taken off to confirm it?

I’ve got my VIN number...


I have got quotes from local part shops n GSF/ECP but they’re approx £50 n looking on eBay they’re selling for half the price (brand new too). However with eBay you must conform OEM part number or else if incorrect due to me not verifying I’ll have to return at my own expense!
eBay part check does suggest it will fit my car however sellers do state the part gets mistaken very often! I’ve had/known part shops send the wrong parts to garage 30% of times, how annoying!

Thanks in advance.
 
Tbh, with wd40 & a windback tool, you can free these up to work properly, using the handbrake to assist, you can also strip & replace the internal with a piston seal etc kit, although it is probably quicker to swap the caliper out also.
 
NHN said:
Tbh, with wd40 & a windback tool, you can free these up to work properly, using the handbrake to assist, you can also strip & replace the internal with a piston seal etc kit, although it is probably quicker to swap the caliper out also.
Click to expand...

The mechanic did spray some wd40 n gave it a few whacks! It’s fine now but in a day or 2 problem will reappear.
Windback tool? Might look into that.
Where’s best to buy jack stands from? Now that it’s soon spring I don’t mind spending time on it!
 
For peace of mind I would at least change the one that's sticky, they are notorious for it. I freed mine off numerous times and used to get 2 or 3 months then it would start to drag again. Trouble is, it's probably been sticking for longer than you think and if you check your MPG, it won't have helped.
Also watch what you buy on E.Bay, many calipers described as new are reconditioned, not that there's anything wrong with recon but I think they should be upfront and tell you. you should also know who reconditioned them, most of the cheaper stuff n E.Bay is Chinese and personally I wouldn't touch with a barge-pole.
I also did the caliper repair kit on an 8L A3, I don't think they are much different, it's fiddly and if you haven't done it before or it's heavily rusted, it's not easy.
I went for the Pagid ones from ECP, about 2 years ago and have had no issues. They do come completely unpainted though so unless you paint them they will be rusty in no time, many people will say they don't need to be painted but where I stay they rust up like I said in days and are completely unsightly, so I prefer to paint, it's your best chance when they are clean and clear or rust. ECP have become more expensive over the last while and when one of my Wife's went recently we just got teh local Garage to do it. They get recon calipers from TMS motorfactors, qualiity is pretty good and they are tried and tested, but they get them at trade price, much less than I can get them for.
Here's anopther catalogue; http://catfans.info/audi/?lang=D may have mre luck than the other one.
All the best with the job ;)
 
Last edited:
A19quattro said:
For peace of mind I would at least change the one that's sticky, they are notorious for it. I freed mine off numerous times and used to get 2 or 3 months then it would start to drag again. Trouble is, it's probably been sticking for longer than you think and if you check your MPG, it won't have helped.
Also watch what you buy on E.Bay, many calipers described as new are reconditioned, not that there's anything wrong with recon but I think they should be upfront and tell you. you should also know who reconditioned them, most of the cheaper stuff n E.Bay is Chinese and personally I wouldn't touch with a barge-pole.
I went for the Pagid ones from ECP, about 2 years ago and have had no issues. They do come completely unpainted though so unless you paint them they will be rusty in no time, many people will say they don't need to be painted but where I stay they rust up like I said in days and are completely unsightly, so I prefer to paint, it's your best chance when they are clean and clear or rust. ECP have become more expensive over the last while and when one of my Wife's went recently we just got teh local Garage to do it. They get recon calipers from TMS motorfactors, qualiity is pretty good and they are tried and tested, but they get them at trade price, much less than I can get them for.
Here's anopther catalogue; http://catfans.info/audi/?lang=D may have mre luck than the other one.
All the best with the job ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed message.
Do you just paint them with metal/rust proof paint?
This eBay seller states NEW n 2 years guarantee...

That link works, you can click into each part/area, thanks! I’ll give it a check on PC tomorrow.
 
What’s the difference between
frt.-wh.dr.+
PR-1KD

AND

frt.-wh.dr.+
PR-1KZ

??? Model data column is confusing!
 
JayTeeA38P said:
1KD and 1KZ are the manufacturer codes that tell you which brakes you have. The sticker (which I think is in the spare wheel well, in the boot) that lists the factory options on your car will tell you which brakes you have.

This link may help:
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/brake-disc-size-guide-list-oem-fit.179189/
Click to expand...
I rang up dealers who surprisingly confirmed the OEM part number! In the past for other part number requests they were reluctant!
They confirmed it to be 1K0615424J which is from PR-1KD :)
I'll double check the boot just for my reference, thanks.
 
Some kind of heat resistant paint is what I normally use, my favourite at the moment is Halfords satin black (they do bright gloss red as well) but like everything form Halfrauds it's quite expensive. I have also used smooth Hammerite with good results ;)
 
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