Top end tapping

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Adrian mccoll

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Gave the car a little squeeze earlier, maybe 3500/4000revs, pressed the clutch down quite suddenly and the exhaust made a pop which it's only ever done a handful of times. Not sure of this is relevant or by not. Followed by a constant tapping from I believe top end... Tapping is consistent with revs and car still runs ok (not missing or lumpy) no oil light.
Can get a video tomorrow of this but looking for opinions on where to look.. maybe a lifter ? Valve spring?
Car is running stage 2
117k
Serviced and had a new oil pickup fitted 800miles ago
 
Hate to say it but given what you describe I wouldn't rule out a bent rod...

<tuffty/>
 
Wouldn't a bent rod make the car run rough ? Easiest way to tell by taking the sump off ?
Would you still start with rocker cover off ?
 
Bent rod doesn't always make the engine run badly... but it will make a tapping noise as the piton is hitting the oil squirter at the bottom of the bore..

You can easily test for a bent rod by pulling the plugs out and using a long 'rod' (screwdriver, thick weld rod, plant support stick thing etc) to test where the piston is at the top of its stoke on each cylinder...

They should all be the same but if you find one cyl thats a little lower then chances are the rod is bent

<tuffty/>
 
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Cheers tuffty, how can I confirm each cylinder is at the top of its stroke ? Just keep tuning engine by hand and record the shortest measurement on each cylinder ? Wheres best to turn engine by hand ? Clockwise or counter ?
 
Turn clockwise, you need to watch the 'rod' and look for when it 'peaks' at the top of the stroke...

<tuffty/>
 
Watch the rod from below with sump off ?
What's the best method for turning engine by hand ?
 
No dude lol....

Remove plugs (from the top)... put a stick or long screwdriver down the plug hole... rotate the engine clockwise off the crank bolt (19mm), while rotating the engine watch the stick/screwdriver as it rises... then as it starts to drop back down stop... then rotate carefully anticlockwise until it peaks again and starts to drop... you will just need to then rock it on the crank until you are happy your stick/screwdriver is at the very top of the stroke then holding your stick/screwdriver as upright as possible (you will need to keep this consistent across all cylinders as you test) mark it off then move on to the next cyl

You can do 2 cyls at a time once you have set a particular cyl at top of stroke... cyls 1 and 4 rotate in unison as do cyls 2 and 3... so set cyl 1 at top of stroke and measure it and cyl 4.. then rotate 180 degrees on cyl 2... check that one and then cyl 3

<tuffty/>
 
Got ya ! Top man tuffty, will check asap and let you know the outcome..
Not that your interested but I will probably need more advise lol
 
Thank you for calling the 8L help hotline... You are in a queue and are caller number... 342... Your call is important to somebody (I would imagine) and a <tuffty/> will be with you as soon as possible or whenever he can be ar5ed :)

... No worries... I am sure someone else could pitch in if I am not about

<tuffty/>
 
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Just messaged you on FB tuffty as I can't upload images or videos on here as the files are too large, rocker cover off and no obvious signs so head off I'm guessing.
Still haven't measured down to pistons though as I can't get to the crank bolt until I get the car up on the ramp
 
A 2 year update tuffty…. You were in fact bang on she’s now finally back alive and just got home from badger5
 

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Indeed I’ll have to go over it with a magnifying glass see what’s missing
 
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<tuffty/> said:
I wouldn't worry dude... I only need a drivers door lol...

Glad to see its all sorted now though

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
I’ll swap you my list is ridiculous someone has just put a silver s3 on Facebook that he’s breaking… on the Audi s3 8l owners buy/sell/wanted/advice. His name is James pheby.. may be worth a look ?
 
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