My s3 v6 build

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two of the notes have a little rough spot I’m hoping that will come out with a light honing
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pistons are out labelled up with cylinder number and which way the piston is facing so hopefully go in fairly easy think I will leave the pistons soaking in brake cleaner and start changing the rods are the wrist pins and clips re useable or should they be changed
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As long as the rough spots don’t catch your nail mate, should be ok with a light hone. I’m basing this on rebuilding various chainsaws, etc over the years haha.

Last engine I worked on was my RB26DETT which amounted to nothing in the end. Biggest regret selling that car


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I will see what it comes up like when after a quick honing , I just need to figure out how to get the crank pulley off with out the tool or il have to wait and order one but buy then I couldn’t have in honed and all cleaned up, don’t want to hone it with the crank in in case any crap gets into the bearings,
 

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You could try the absolute finest wet n dry to get the marks off those bores.

While my engine was out and standing I always kept all of it including any surfaces absolutely covered In WD40 or similar to stop corrosion.


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Will get some wd40 ordered,I’m going to try something a bit thicker than the blue roll to go at it 1st maybe a green scourer pad before I hone it, will try and source the T10069 tool tomorrw or an adjustable with a bar wedged against the floor hopefully that works or il just have to order the thing
 
audi upgrades
Anyone recommend somewhere for the supertech valves? so far it’s cheaper to get it from Florida and pay import then from over here
Also orders the t10069 tool today vw won’t sell it called tps and the guy on the phone said not a problem as your a “mobile mechanic “ haha
 
Also crank balancing is booked in quoted £160-200 because using forged rods might take longer, see if they will skim the head at the same time , nothing like a bit of progress to get you motivated,
 
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When I remove the main caps on the crank do them bolt need replacing? Also etka say there’s retaining clips and shells I’m guessing these should be changed? My manual is blank on the crank section and I might aswell get them ordered when I’m at tps in the morning

I really do need a full manual I wouldn’t mind I paid for that and it’s half empty!
 
Always replace the bolts... Mains cap bolts, crank bolt etc...

Retaining clips? Pics? I am assuming they mean the shell tangs

<tuffty/>
 
Just looked on another drawing it’s crankshaft she’ll and thrust washer
So il order them In the morning
 
Mains bearings and thrust washers... OK... Would have thought that was a given if taking the crack out tbh...

What big end bearings you going for? I have settled on ACL... Not sure if they do mains bearings as well

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Mains bearings and thrust washers... OK... Would have thought that was a given if taking the crack out tbh...

What big end bearings you going for? I have settled on ACL... Not sure if they do mains bearings as well

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Yeah it is pretty obvious I’m just mindful I’m changing thinks that don’t need to be, do arp do a crank pully bolt or is it just oem
 
Tj 0785 said:
These the ones https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACL-RACE-S...e&pageci=caabec2b-3739-4cca-abe0-22a94203be1e
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I have not seen VR mains up close so without seeing a set I wouldn't like to say for sure... they don't list the BHE engine code that my TT engine is but thats not unusual as it depends if that code was available in the country th ebearings are made in and they just didn't know it was one of the codes out there... They look about right but appear to have built in thrusts?... I'd get yours out (fnarr) for visual confirmation before pulling the trigger... just make sure you opt for the std size ones...

<tuffty/>
 
Mines bhe aswell but just figured it’s the same, hopefully get it out tomorrow only got 2 hours to work on ii but have all day Wednesday , but il order the main cap bolts in morning and either the pully just ordered the valves set
 
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With new valve stem seals would you go aftermarket from ie or similar or oem
 
No progress today’s as on daddy duty, but picked up the crankshaft tool from tps it’s massive (3ft) compared to what I thought it would be, Ive ordered the acl main bearings and thrust washers today, whilst in tps I tried to order new bolts for the bearing caps but they cannot find them in etka ( I couldn’t either) so will have to try somewhere else
 
Started one cylinder and stop practically straight away think I might screw this up with try and order the brush type see if I any more confident with that don’t want to scrap my block
 

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So this morning 1st job was to remove the crank easy enough with the right tool, cranks ready to go off for balancing just need to fit a new rod into one of the pistons to send with the crank,
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The cylinder honing I think I will get someone to do as I’m not that confident that il do it right, would it be advisable to get the block chemical cleaned aswell?
 
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What are you having balanced exactly?... normally rod balancing is done end to end and by weight with no pistons attached... pistons are normally done to weight to make them are close to the same weight as poss....

Typically you will send the crank as an assembly so any relevant pulleys etc attached... this typically includes flywheel/clutch unless using a DMF in which case its fairly pointless to include that...

Make sure they do not remove the crank trigger wheel (some do) as this will require you to buy a new trigger wheel and bolts... they are a one time use only due to the way they are fixed...

Getting the block/crank chemically cleaned is a decent idea though... be aware that it will rust like a mofo so paint the outside of the block as soon as possible once you have it back and use plenty of rust inhibiter inside the block (bores, mains faces etc)... WD40 works ok for this...

Also if doing the block you may need to disassemble the intermediate shaft assembly to ensure that everything is cleaned nicely

<tuffty/>
 
Was going to drop off crank, rods and pistons for balancing, yeah was going to take that out I case of any rubbers or gunk in there, might just drop the block off for honing and cleaning and get it all balance for it’s ready to go in or I have the clucth at least

Does the little non return valve need taking out the block aswell?
 
Slightly concerned about the block just dropped it off for honing and he looks at the block and says looks like head gasket failure because the face of the block looks discoloured on the bores near the water pump is, when I removed the water pump on the strip down it left half of the turbine in the block , I hope it’s not cracked the block if it’s over heated
 
oooooh movement!!!! look forward to update pics and hope your block is OK!
 
I know it was long overdue I’m just waiting on a valve spring compressor so I can strip the head for skimming and fitting the new valves, not sure weather to fit new springs and retainers aswell , have been looking at some upgraded cams but I think I pick them and a hpa controller up when I’m in Florida later in the year
 
Tj 0785 said:
I know it was long overdue I’m just waiting on a valve spring compressor so I can strip the head for skimming and fitting the new valves, not sure weather to fit new springs and retainers aswell , have been looking at some upgraded cams but I think I pick them and a hpa controller up when I’m in Florida later in the year
Click to expand...

that’s going to add up quickly if you end up upgrading the valve springs / retainers.
I don’t think many do it to be honest ...
 
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cams for a 500/600 target are probably not needed

<tuffty/>
 
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Are 24/25 something that should be changed, do they tend to fail?
 
full chain set replacement(including all the guides) for comfort! also check the tensioner bolt(i believe these have oil-holes that can clock up and then fail)
 
Bluepower said:
full chain set replacement(including all the guides) for comfort! also check the tensioner bolt(i believe these have oil-holes that can clock up and then fail)
Click to expand...

already have the chain kit including all bolts,cogs,railed, and tensioner bolt and guide but number 24/25 aren’t in any kits and never seem to mention them being changed, don’t want to be paying £300 to change them if it’s not a part that tends to fail.
 
All the kits seem to be like this, (I didn’t buy a kit just went to tps)
 

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Shouldn't need to change the VVT actuators but check the sprocket (7) for wear... I replaced mine as it looked a little worn...

Just looked up the part number for one of the VVT actuators... ECS list them as 342 bucks so they are likely to be at least 200/300 quid to buy 'each'... definitely a replace on failure part :)

<tuffty/>
 
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