Audi S3 "Punisher" 2.1L stroker build, image heavy

I went nuts and ordered head stud and main bearing stud kit. At least now they should not fail

ADs3 said:

Have you seen any measurements recorded of how the x-parts manifold flows......total flow, equal distribution of the ports?

Click to expand...

Nope. only that its identical to one that had 1000hp flow and equal distribution and when I measured this, it seems to be 100% match, excetp I have to polish insides.

I have seen picture of flow and Number were

• Runner 1 - 290.424839 CFM
• Runner 2 - 289.215817 CFM
• Runner 3 - 288.897168 CFM
• Runner 4 - 289.169699 CFM

average per cylinder.
https://store.034motorsport.com/034...take-manifold-transverse-1-8t-large-port.html
Its 100% copy of that.

Here where I live is now two 2litre stroker both producing over 850hp and same intake. 2nd Audi put out 853hp on oem throttle body! Think about that

hmm ok my comment didnt post here but thanks badger5! I was aware of that too, that there is differences. Friend has the 034 one and he had problems too but he modified it and now has over 850hp on that intake.

hydro s3 said:

Do the arp head bolts not take more strain over the oem one's? If so with you putting more torque threw the engine would the arp ones not be best.

Click to expand...

Friend who has the drag racer had some problems with knocking etc. he tightened the ARP bolts to 110Nm and almost all problems disappeared.
Of course Im not going to do this since I dont have over 200hp/cyl

Some more stuff appeared btw.
2L surge tank for dual AEM pumps
Tial wastegate 44mm by trix

Polishing inside of intake.
Before:


Soon there:



Fluidampr arrived:

Engine, crank and head are on machine shop.
Deck+head are smimmed, crank inspected and dual pinned crank gear incoming. They machine valves too since I cannot be *****
Too lot to do anyways
I really cannot wait to see how lot torque this thing can push on lower rpm. Driving in city should be easier too. Im just now settling in with 6speed box, Im so used to drive in 2nd with 5speed and now 3rd is the way to go.
IDK should I remove the gear shortener, I have now twice put it in 3rd instead of 5 and on high rpm damn! Well not so high that over 7k but near it..
Any tips on elevated shifter or something?
I was thinking of keeping car OEM look but I ordered plastic fender flares and I kinda liked the look. I like bit "race" look and in end its my car so dont really care how others look it(mostly they see it from behind ) but open for opinions as usual

Still pondering do I put in SMF and Sachs SRE stuff or keep the LUK DMF with Sachs 4paddle and sachs pressure plate(not sre). Tuffty has pushed this to 440lbft without problem but launching I dont really think is wise with this... Alltho I can always break it, then renew

So update topic.
Ive had lots of problems with build. Head had to be skimmed again, since the was scratch between 2&3 cylinder.

Pistons had to be cut down to get oil squirters to fit

One piston ring cracked(own fault) had to get new one.

Crankshaft trigger wheel had to be welded(actually melted with TIG) to make sure it wont move

Oil pan needed to be grinded to fit ARP main bearing studs

I chose Sach SRE SMF kit to be clutch of choise


I coated pistons with slick ceracoate on sides, heat dissipating below and top

Silver-Project rear trail arms

Titanium vs oem retainers

Installing valves with 15€ lawnmover tool

Coated parts

ACL race bearings

Millers drive-in oil 10w-40

Balancing report after tig weld plus flywheel plus clutch plate plus camgear

Dual AEM 400lph

ND to EV6 adapters and 11mm->14mm injector adapters


Waiting for head to be installed

Athena 83,8mm and 1,4mm thich race MLS head gasket. CR is now about 9,24:1 or bit more

Head painted


Block painted with acid black

Valves all in with dual sprins+titanium retainers. Guides changed to exhaust side and Inconel supertech exhaust valves


Filing piston rings

Making adaptor from old cambelt gear to fit the timing wheel


Engine and head assembled together and starting to set Cat cams 3658 timing

Reason why the trigger wheel is melted is because using old one, the bolts go too deep. Picture here to explain

I decided to run E85 with engine since I am soon in city where E85 is available. We shall see what kind of figures we can push out
Most likely, I will drop some hp in favor for reliability and as daily driver, I dont need full power nonstop but more torque on low to mid is best

Going to take S3 apart this week or weekend.

Car is now running and under tuning! Lots have happened and I didnt post here lot but I have a facebook link where is tons of pics, info etc.
Bill from badger5 helped me A LOT and I cant ever thank him enough for not losing nerves with my endless questions!

Alltho my understanding of english did make things worse and I had to ask until I understood but never the less, Bill was amazing help. Also Balasz from Ignitron and so many others.

Along the way I ran out of time and had to make some changes. Last specs are

AGU head refurbished
OEM intake valves and OEM old guides just machined old valves to seats
Supertech Inconel 1-Groove exhaust valves machined to seats
Rosten-Performance double springs with titanium retainers
CatCams 3658 set with adjustable wheels
Rosten-Performance adjustable cam wheel
Athena 1.4mm and 83,8mm MLS gasket. CR is now 9.2:1
VVT with Ignitron control
AGU base engine bored to 83mm
83mm 9.5:1 CR Je-Pistons with better flame travel profile
FCP 144mm X-Rods (should handle more torque than H)
ACL Race/King race bearings, OEM pressure bearings
ALH 1.9TDI 95.5mm stroke balanced and polished crank with 1.8t modified cam belt wheel+2 extra pins on crankshaft for cam belt wheel
Melded(yes melted with TIG so no balance change) trigger wheel to camshaft
GTX2860R genII with T25 cast manifold
Rennsport HRT intake(smallport) with spacer from small to big
OEM TB
3" Downpipe with 3" SS exhaust with 3 magnaflows
600x300x76mm FMIC
K&N RC-5112 air filter
Intank OEM pump new
AEM 400LPH in-line pump under car
Ignitron Ecu
1200cc EV14 Injectors
OEM fuel rail OEM style adjustable FPR
Sachs race engineering 7.2kg SMF and full clutch kit with 4-paddle disk
SSQV dumb valve

I also now have flexfuel sensor fitted ready, LCR fuel filter moved where active charcoal chamber was.

Also hilarious image when I got my wastegate control fcked and on 4000rpm it pushed 2.24bar like for second, I know it doesnt reflect real life but I gotta say, car was insanely fast on that drive, even I didnt rev it much. boost was almost instat cus the pressure pushed wastegate close



here is FB link

Code:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/203244473354322/permalink/949480938730668/

Perhaps not prettiest S3 out there but next summer I polish and paint etc.
Car is now in "winter" mood also. Dont like the rear and the sideview rear is bit too low vs front.

First drive and boost pipe BLOW cus it was loose and well the WG problem was still there.

Longer drive, sorry for music etc
and camera on head not optimal

Please dont say about my AFR meter place, its horrible and is now moving to dual pod where boost meter is.

Happy new year all!

Thank you Hydro s3
Only good thing about winter is that you can powerslide everywhere With ignitron haldex control the car is quite nice when 50/50 power delivery.
On drives I have it on OEM mode but still it tries to push rear to side

I bought this yesterday 034 big port intake, heavily modified with 1litre spacer (approx 3.3litres volume now) polished and improved flow.
Been on 900hp drag racer stroker here.
I can use now my 80mm Hemi TB and finally get more out of big port head.


Also last year I got very very very cheap Golf R 2011 DSG box that has been only sen approx 90 000km
It leaks between seals but fixable. Only leaks when its running.
its DQ250 MTX box but it will be strong enough for my use. Can handle 600Nm and even heard that someone has with 650Nm daily driver this box.
If I would want it more strong, I could upgrade the packs inside of it but Im sure this will handle my power/torque anytime.
Now I only need rest parts for DSG swap


Interesting year going to be this 2020
G25-660
Better intake
DSG!!!! controllered by Ignitron

I started to rip the DSG apart and fix the leak issue.good but the 2nd lock ring I cannot get off so I had to order special pliers and I get them tomorrow. After I I can rip the DSG in 2 halves, check the leak and fix it and hopefully it can be fixed.

Also my roofliner was hanging so I took the lining off and added some Ground zero noise killer mat, also there comes another layer of soft mat to absorb sounds.
Only problem is that I dont know for sure how to fix the hanging liner. Any tips appreciated!

Can anyone remember seat LCR fuel filter code? I cannot and I would like to order new.

I have video of taking DSG apart but I have not edited them yet.

Car ran for few secs with DSG and horrible grinding noise. I think its the middle metal sheet between gearbox and engine and I really really hope it is not hard to fix and I have a clue where it came from, possibly the rear small cover is bend inwards and makes contact to flywheel.
Positive was that at least now it didnt leak so far, I hope it wont start when I get more pressure to it.
BTW the CR is 9.8:1 I had wrong figures on one spot whe I calculated it, so no wonder it started to knock with 98 fuel on 1.2bar boost, now its E85 and car worked really well with it.

Then I noticed the ECU wont talk to DSG and of course it wont if you forget to connect +12v acc wire D'oh!
I have run into problem after problem after problem and making things worse, my hands are overworked, they hurt day and night so I have had to push this project forward and forward.

New parts or changed:
1300cc EV14 matched set https://finjector.com/eng/ev14_1300_cc_12_ohm_c_jetronic_liitin_keskipitka_o_o_49_mm-p-486741-0 I really suggest this place, they ship worldwide too. Fast&Great customer service, fast shipping and delivery in total, make account if you order(the more you buy, they give you personal discount that applies to prices when you login) These have very great spray!
Turbosmart - GenV HyperGate 45 14psi External Wastegate

Now I am missing downpipe+wastegate pipe+some breather lines. So close but so far away still...

Not much I know but I am not good with making downpipes or the pipe for wastegate. Now the downpipe has to be put in below with twisting it many times to it goes to place. I have to weld 2"v-band close to the pipe for connection to wastegate and then I hope it still will fit.
All this on ground too witch is pain in *** to do.


List what you needat least on my build)
- DSG, I have MTX Gearbox from Golf R 2011 (its been said it can handle 650Nm on stock clutch pack so I kept it, I will limit torque)
- ECU what can control it, I prefer and suggest Ignitron, it is the best there is
- Electrical connector round for DSG box 1J0927320
- Electrical connector for DSG shifter 1k0972776, doesnt come with connectors so get them elsewhere, on VW they cost 15€/pcs and that price is a gunless robbery! Dont waste money on the VW fix wires which are 15€/pc here at least! You can use the small amp square connectors that cost less than euro, sorry I forgot the number for them. Get 5 of them but I usually buy more cus i **** them up regulary. I suggest buying good crimping pliers example aliexpress.
- Right side driveshaft flange from 02M gearbox, the one with MTX and seems with others too, dont fit
- Driveshafts: Left fits just like that, right you have to cut 40mm. I cut mine with lathe and TIG welded. I could not find ones that would fit without modding and I tested 9 different driveshafts. TT 3.2 ones dont fit with this one
- Flywheel 06F105266L or Sachs 2295 000 541
- Bigot bearing middle of flywheel Sachs 1863 869 047 <-DO NOT forget to put this in
- Starter motor 02E911023L
- 2 coolant hoses 8N0121096H coolant hose from DSG cooler to waterpump. 8N0121073A, coolant hose from interior heat exchanger to DSG cooler.
OR DIY hoses, i used 16mm 90degree ones 2 of them, warmed the hose so I could push it to one way valve
-One-way valve 1J0122351
- Engine mounts 1J0199117AT/ 8N0199555G or use OEM S3 mounts, the fit except on transmission site you are missing one bolt and there is chance two wont hold it in place BUT 1J0199555BB seems to have right bolt pattern and looks like it fits, I have not tested it.
- DSG shifter from Passat B6, touran dont fit to 4wd, see pic

Optional:
- better clutch pack 02E398029C, I am going with OEM cus I dont plan pushing over 600Nm nonstop and ppl say that this OEM pack should hold 650Nm without slipping if you program it to clamp harder
- Oil filter housing made from aluminium with fins for better cooling. I bought mine from china and it was ******, idk did i get unlucky since others bought same and they got great item.
- CAN support cluster to see what gear is engaged, I skip this for now or make external that shows me it but I dont really need it for now.
- Paddle shift, basically on/off switch for Ignitron and digital inputs

My list for parts from where I got them from:
- Sachs flywheel 2295 000 541 (Autodoc)
- Sach bigot bearing 1863 869 047
- CASCO starter motor: CST10444AS (Autodoc)
- Elring DSG cooler O-rings 886.810 (Autodoc)
- Vaico repair kit with DSG oil pan, oil filter, O-rings for electrical round connector, 6litres of DSG oil V10-5138(Autodoc)
- Elring park gear axle gasket(renew if leaks) 886.780 (Autodoc)
- Elring metallic gasket for oil pump DSG 149.060(Autodoc)
- Shifter from Passat B6 junkyard
- Driveshafts left fits, right one you need to cut 40mm DIY
- One way water valve 1J0122351
- Cover for clutch pack and hydraulic block gasket maktrans poland, almost all gaskets are one time use on DSG as listed below
- 16mm and 19mm ID diameter water hoses with 90 degree corners on them, they are cheap and must. Even better to get few of the ones that have several curves, makes things easy.

Repair parts for DSG, these are bare minimum you need to open box and assemble:

- 02E321385A Gasket for oil pump, needs to be renewed (
- 02E301580C gasket for hydraulic block, needs to be renewed(cant get from VAG they don make it but eg. maktrans poland makes it)
- 02E301205C cover for clutchpack, has to be renewed -everytime
- 02E301859A Lock ring for clutchpack cover, has to be renewed
- the round electrical connector needs new o-rings everytime too.
- DSG cooler needs new 2x O-rings

For sealant to use, when mating casings back together, Elring AFD2018 was the one I went for. Anaerobic, I could not find anywhere what they use when they make DSG so I saw one elring video they used this.

So what else?
G25-660 is now in
Wastegate is turbosmart hypergate 45 instead of Tial
Battery is in trunk now, 50mm2 welding cables full copper, small strains version(better conductivity)
Start and stop battery 75Ah
300A automatic fuse

Also amps are in spare wheel cowl, pics are from not ready state


Wiring DSG connector

DSG pinout, these are from my car but this is the pinout on 20pin ones almost all same, to my knowledge. Please check your gearbox one before doing this. I am not resposible for errors.

DSG shifter pinout

New subframe because old ones dogbone nuts got loose inside of the frame and I could not get them to stick or weld.

Had to cut triangle out of body so the DSG would fit, the OEM intercoolers hook into that. I dont know why but gearbox would not fit without removing that. There seems to be different version of S3 where that thing dont exist (?) since few ppl said they dnt have it. I know A3 might not have that but they said they have S3. and no, I did not cut the frame, only the triangle what is made of thin metal. So frame integrity is still same

Passat shifter in, I broke the button from this when I tried to remove it. It had crack and got loose. I have been trying to find new button but not luck yet.

Lathe cut the right driveshaft


Tig welted shaft ready for paint

Making new engine mounts, Shore65 rubber. Cheapest mount and 1litre kit approx 60pounds and they do not move

Getting there but still to do and tidy stuff up. I put vacuum block top of intake. I know my engine room is nothing beautiful like others but I make it so it works. The line to air filter too is going to be different, that was just a test

Final waterlines for DSG . I put extra bolt on that tranmission mount, made threads to the one connected to transmission but I have the right mount too. I was thinking of testing this and to see is that 1 extra bolt enough, so you could use S3 oem mounts. If it moves I replace it.
From picture you can figure out how the water lines for DSG go too or at least I think you can make it out


thats it so far. I cant list all the trouble I have had with this project and I think its last time I touch the car. No more changes

Shush you vile temptress!