I have been looking to buy an auto for some time but have come across a manual that l cant pass on. I usually modify them but have had an 8V, only 8P. What is the OEM clutch good for above standard, say stage 1,2 etc. My 8P had to get clutch change when l went 2+.
S3 8V Manual clutch torque limit
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Personally I wouldn't bother with stage 1 with a manual with the standard clutch. I'm on a manual and mine was slipping before stage 1. You may be lucky and it'll cope for a while on stage 1 but will slip eventually. The clutches are golf GTI clutches. Some people are lucky and have no problems. Same part number for S3 and golf. If you can afford the outlay go for a Sachs or RTS clutch. Can handle torque but give a heavier pedal.
35k miles manual S3.
stage1 for maybe last 10k miles, still on original clutch.
did have an issue with loads of blue smoke coming from the clutch but that was 20mins of very steep slow reversing
I have assumed I will need a new clutch at some point.
stage1 for maybe last 10k miles, still on original clutch.
did have an issue with loads of blue smoke coming from the clutch but that was 20mins of very steep slow reversing
I have assumed I will need a new clutch at some point.
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Are you on the low torque map? If not, your doing well based on many manual owners going stage 1. Over many forums.35k miles manual S3.
stage1 for maybe last 10k miles, still on original clutch.
did have an issue with loads of blue smoke coming from the clutch but that was 20mins of very steep slow reversing
I have assumed I will need a new clutch at some point.
Not low torque no nor am I disputing the reputation of the clutch.
But given the clutch reputation I do tend to use the revs a bit more than I could i.e. rather than use the oodles of low down grunt I tend to drop a gear.....for example I try to never use full throttle under say 3000revs and spend more time higher up the rev range. The car does not do stop start driving at all but does lots of fast A/B roads which likely makes a difference.
Sometimes we do need to be careful though with internet forums, even if say 20% of all manual users have an issue that means the vast majority do not. My own view based on no evidence whatsoever is that the lifespan has to be related to its usage in some way. I will be getting a Sachs replacement when mine goes, has to be said though I much prefer a manual and even with a replacement clutch is still cheaper than a DSG.
p.s. if it slips at stage1 then not sure we can have any complaints, if it slips on oe spec (and I know some GolfR users have had replacements at less than 5k miles) then obviously that is ridiculous and should be a warranty claim.
But given the clutch reputation I do tend to use the revs a bit more than I could i.e. rather than use the oodles of low down grunt I tend to drop a gear.....for example I try to never use full throttle under say 3000revs and spend more time higher up the rev range. The car does not do stop start driving at all but does lots of fast A/B roads which likely makes a difference.
Sometimes we do need to be careful though with internet forums, even if say 20% of all manual users have an issue that means the vast majority do not. My own view based on no evidence whatsoever is that the lifespan has to be related to its usage in some way. I will be getting a Sachs replacement when mine goes, has to be said though I much prefer a manual and even with a replacement clutch is still cheaper than a DSG.
p.s. if it slips at stage1 then not sure we can have any complaints, if it slips on oe spec (and I know some GolfR users have had replacements at less than 5k miles) then obviously that is ridiculous and should be a warranty claim.
Some seem to fail early on just a stock car, whereas others have survived stage 1 or are still going strong beyond 40k miles. The clutch inconsistency just doesnt make sense since they should all have been made to the same spec, but the issue does exist and seems to be pure luck on whether any manual S3 will cope with stage 1 or not.
Think a lot is down to driving style. Things like riding the clutch and launching won’t do any clutch favours.
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My slipping clutch was down to the friction material only actually touching just half of possible contact. When it came out the writing was still visible on the friction material. Still wouldn't have had any joy taking it to Audi and complaining.
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Ultimately yes. Whether it was down to weak springs or duff pressure plate, that I dont know. All I know is it cost me a few quid to swap it out for a Sachs which is duff aswell. Getting an RTS clutch fitted Wednesday along with stage 2. Fingers crossed this ****** works ok.
I would have taken that back to Audi. Clearly a manufacturing fault somewhere.
Good luck with your stage 2
Ok, so the clutch is made of chocolate. My last 8P clutch went around 15k miles, on stage one with CAI, TBE. I went through different clutches over the 6 years l had it. Last one being single mass, which was hard on the clutchin and a but rattley. Considering l would probably go the same route which clutch is the favourite to take 450 ftlbs and not being to user unfriendly, more oem on the ears and knee.
450ftlbs is diesel level torque. Don’t think my 3.0 v6 tdi made that much torque. Didn’t think the 2.0 4 pot could make that kind of torque without some serious work.
450lbs foot is stage 3, big turbo ... but piston melting / cog stripping territory.
A full stage 2 sees a around 400 ish. Mine is stage 1.5 if you like (no exhaust side mods) and is supposedly 391lbs foot. I've got the sachs organic (a helix pressure plate I believe), original DMF, and its perfectly fine at coping with that amount of torque. Its a little heavier than stock but you get use to it.
A full stage 2 sees a around 400 ish. Mine is stage 1.5 if you like (no exhaust side mods) and is supposedly 391lbs foot. I've got the sachs organic (a helix pressure plate I believe), original DMF, and its perfectly fine at coping with that amount of torque. Its a little heavier than stock but you get use to it.
this I think is where the common fault lies. Some pressure plates, for whatever reason, are simply not up to the job / required clamping force.
For the unlucky ones by the time it’s destroyed the clutch and possibly overheated/destroyed the dmf it’s difficult to prove it’s a manufacturing defect as it will just look like the driver has been riding the clutch and destroyed both. Must be a similar thing with the diesels as well. Had ones with over 100k on original clutch/dmf and ones showing symptoms at 20k.
