emerald k6 vs kdfi plug and play

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rjov1998

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hello, I have a -98 a3 8L 1.8t agu and want to get some power out of it on e85 (its MUTCH cheaper in finland than normal gas) and I did the maf mod but im maxing out the injectors already and would want to put a plug and play stand-alone in it, was wondering which one is better, the emerald k6 or kdfi in terms of easy installation and getting things to work, tuning the thing and what i original features of the car i may lose/are hard to get working. I'm also wondering about the abs and airbag systems on the car, do they have a separate control box or does the ecu controll them? if its the ecu what problems may i i encounter and how have you guys solved them?
 
can't speak for kdfi (never heard of it) but emerald k6 with their adaptor loom and map sensor is pretty straight forward.

ABS etc is not attached to engine ecu, K6 will plug in, with no unwanted side effects in my experience
 
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Thank you for the fast response, how good is the supplied basemap, do i need to tune it immediately or could i drive carefully a few weeks before i get a dyno time (because its my daily driver). What outside of the original loom do i need to install (map, wideband, something else)? I only asked about the kdfi because my friend recommended it to me (he had never herd about the emerald and neither had I). It seems tho that the emerald has some better features so its probably worth the ~400€ extra? https://www.k-data.org/kdfi-pnp-vw-agu-18t.html
 
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audi upgrades
oh and how about the immobilizer? (sorry for so many probably obvious questions I'm pertty new to vag cars)
 
As soon as you replace the ecu for a stand-alone, there will be no more immobiliser..
As for the KDFI.. forget about that.. old Megasquirt based stuff with a slow processor.. go for the Emerald!
 
I run a k6 on an agu with the adapter.
You don't HAVE to add anything in, but I added a map sensor and wideband o2 to mine.

Having a the wideband allows you to use the adaptive closed loop setup. Which is effectively an auto tune.

The original install took around 2 hours, and I was pretty much able to drive it straight away and I very quickly learnt the software, within a few hours I was winding some boost back in and enjoying the car again!
 
hello, I got the emerald a few days ago and just wondered about the idle valve pinout and about connecting the n75 to the ecu for boostcontroll (dont know if they connected it already), also what setting have you guys used for them?
 
oh okay, have to check the settings and see if i get it working, how did you wire in the wideband, was going to use the original cable but can't find any diagram for it? would need to know the pinout in both ends and if you know the adapter harness pinout aswell it would be great.
 
You will need an external wideband controller if you want to use a wideband lambda... no controller on board the K6

<tuffty/>
 
yes I know, I have the widebandcontroller from emeralds shop, would just wanna know which one of the 4 cables are the signal and ecu ground
 
I know, but thats not what im asking, I'm wondering about the cars original harness, which cable is which in the original me3.8 harness so I can do a clean install of the lambda controller by using the original loom, the k6 gets a lambda signal with the original lambda so it should be easy would just need the wiring diagram and couldn't find it on the internet.
 
K6 has no inbuilt lambda controller at all so you will need to wire the controller separately to the factory loom

<tuffty/>
 
I'm going to wire in the controller to the factory loom so i dont have to use separate cables, it want it to look as factory as possible
 
you can't do that. The cars factory loom only has narrowband lamda. You need to add a seperate wide band controller and then link the 0-5v feed from that to the ECU, usually to Aux in 35
 
I'm going to connect the controller to the factory loom using the original plug from the old narrowband sensor, keeping the controller in the black box under the car, do you understand what I'm trying to say :sweatsmile:
 
audi upgrades
does someone have the wiring diagram or not? I'll post pictures later because it's too hard for me to explain it in English:sweatsmile:
and I mean the me3.8 loom diagram, mainly the lambda and the ecu connector.
 
Last edited:
rjov1998 said:
I'm going to connect the controller to the factory loom using the original plug from the old narrowband sensor, keeping the controller in the black box under the car, do you understand what I'm trying to say :sweatsmile:
Click to expand...
no.
wideband will go to the external controller... gauge, not ecu directly.
gauge 0-5v output will go to ecu. The End.
 
rjov1998 said:
does someone have the wiring diagram or not? I'll post pictures later because it's too hard for me to explain it in English:sweatsmile:
and I mean the me3.8 loom diagram, mainly the lambda and the ecu connector.
Click to expand...
where do you think the lambda wiring is going to go? From lambda probe, 4 wire AGU one you have factory connection to... 1 x earth 1 x signal, 2 x heater.. they go from probe to ecu, signal, 1 x 12v and one to ecu for other side of heater.

Now, wideband lambda is going to be controlled by what?
Not emerald. It cant do wideband control
External controller required.
External controller output 0-5v to Emerald to feed a processed wideband signal to the ecu. Nothing to do with std looms
 
thats why the controller is going to connect to the std loom and the wideband to it...
 
Wideband
20190727 122406
well, now it works happened to find a schematic for the original loom.
 
a few questions about the software, how do I get the self learning mode on? only been able to get it to open and closed loop mode? nothing is showing up in the afr corrections table but the ecu is clearly correcting the injection map in some way because it starts to run better after a while and this can bee seen in the lambda values as well. I have read the emerald guide but didn't work when I tried to follow their guide, probably missed something small. second question, what about the gauge cluster, is the oil pressure sensor connected to it directly to it or thru the ecu (in the stock configuration, not mentioned in the emerald wiring diagram)? its just annoying when it is beeping with 1min intervals. third question, how did you guys wire in the tach or is it impossible?
 
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